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cvanc

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...remove "just a tiny bit" of metal from this spindle?

I need to ever so slightly reduce the diameter; a few thousandths should be fine. It looks like hardened tool steel to me, which makes me think it can't be done. But I hope I'm wrong :p

Thanks!
 

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Not sure what you are trying to do and I am not a machinist. However, if you just need to fit something inside of something else and do not need to remove it, can you heat up the one part and cool down the other part before fitting together?
 
LOL fear not BMD all rocketeers are plenty hip enough ":^)

Here's a wide shot, yep a turntable. And maybe 10% of the records I've tried can not be forced over the spindle. It's just too big.

overall.jpg
 
LOL fear not BMD all rocketeers are plenty hip enough ":^)

Here's a wide shot, yep a turntable. And maybe 10% of the records I've tried can not be forced over the spindle. It's just too big.

View attachment 514496
Very nice! If it were me I would order the right size ream from McMaster (they come in 0.001 increments) and enlarge the holes in the vinyl to fit. Easier. About 3.5sec per record done on demand.
 
Very nice! If it were me I would order the right size ream from McMaster (they come in 0.001 increments) and enlarge the holes in the vinyl to fit. Easier. About 3.5sec per record done on demand.
But then if you later get a turntable with a smaller spindle you have guaranteed slop on 100% of your albums?
 
But then if you later get a turntable with a smaller spindle you have guaranteed slop on 100% of your albums?
A little runout is inaudible. Especially if is 0.001-0.002. The concontricity tolerance on vinyl albums is already probably ~0.010" now.
Edit: center hole runout spec 0.050"

http://www.aardvarkmastering.com/riaa.htm
 
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...remove "just a tiny bit" of metal from this spindle?

I need to ever so slightly reduce the diameter; a few thousandths should be fine. It looks like hardened tool steel to me, which makes me think it can't be done. But I hope I'm wrong :p

Thanks!
It looks like the designers of that table tried to hit the nominal RIAA hole spec and didn't look at the tolerance specification on the record holes.

This one will be purrfect...could go another 0.0005" next size up if you want purrfect+a skosh.
https://www.mcmaster.com/8803A548/
 
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I like John's reamer idea but consider - if you can knock off whatever you need with emery cloth, it's one and done. You avoid having to ream every record you want to play. I'm lazy, I'd go the emery cloth route..
 
I'm not against the reamer idea, but if you do want to make the spindle smaller, I'd go with sandpaper backed up by a flat surface (like a file) as suggested above. I have quite a selection of sandpaper, so I would first start with 1000 grit (wet) and sand it for 15 seconds and then re-measure. Once I saw how much I removed, I would either continue as it was removing a good amount or I would drop to 600 or 400 grit (wet). I would switch back to the finer grits as I got to final size, because part of analog audio is beauty and sanding marks on the spindle is not acceptable to me. I have 2000 grit and 'mirror fine' paper as well, but understand many people don't have this kind of selection.

If you do decide to go that route and have a local mom & pop bodyshop that does nice paint work, they likely have tons of abrasives in the right denominations and if you asked nicely for a handful of pieces they might sell them to you vs having to by 10 sheets of each. Remember I said I had tons of sandpaper. . .its just because of that. I was doing my own motorcycle helmet paint job with automotive paint and clearcoat and bought all of the grits I could from a paint supply store. I think I had $50-75 in sandpaper alone, since each box was at least 10 sheets. I can't imagine what it would cost today. . .

But, the reamer is a valid solution for sure. I'm curious what the ideal flute configuration for thin vinyl might be. Definitely a straight reamer, but I wonder how many flutes. I've never reamed plastic, just steel, aluminum and bronze and each one of those definitely liked different types of flute profiles.

Sandy.
 
It's just too big.
giphy.gif
 
I'm on board with Overthetop Emery on a buffing stick, be careful about using a hard backing as it can chatter and cause uneven shaping, the highest grit diamond rasp is a good choice also
 
The dimension for hole size for a long playing record according to the RIAA is 0.286" + 0.001" -0.002". your calipers show the dia of your spindle is 7.25mm which is .285", which gives about .001" total clearance. not much clearance! You can get a .288" dia straight fluted ream from Grainger for $65. that will be enough clearance so its not a chore to place your records on.
better than f'g up an expensive spindle thats hardened and ground, and most likely chrome plated and no file or emery cloth will take off any material unless you have it centerless ground by a machine shop. that translate to lots of $$$$.
 
Go to the beauty isle on your next trip to the grocery store and in the nail section, they have disposable emery boards. Think emery paper on popsicle stick. Few swipes with that should remove a few thou and you can use it later to refine a balsa fin tip.
 
Go to the beauty isle on your next trip to the grocery store and in the nail section, they have disposable emery boards. Think emery paper on popsicle stick. Few swipes with that should remove a few thou and you can use it later to refine a balsa fin tip.

I actually tried emery boards for the first time last week on balsa. I was trying to put a profile on fins that were already attached to an unfinished rocket that I apparently just chose to glue on raw and decided to correct that.

I did not enjoy the experience. Its fair to say that the modern generation (get off my lawn, you kids!!!) wants instant gratification, of course ( :) ), but I didn't enjoy the process. After the first couple of fins, I went back to a sanding block with various grades of paper and didn't mind the job at that point.

But, your post does say 'refine a balsa fin tip' not 'take a whole fin from square to a shape' so I don't think we disagree. I think an emery board is a good idea for fine tweaking and I was just expecting too much.

Still not sure I would use it on metal myself, but I'm not going to write my congress-person if someone else chooses to do so.

Not sure why I feel the need to trim my toe nails now, but I do. . .

Sandy.
 
Is the pin removable from the turntable? Bit of heat? Remove it and machine in a collet chuck. Remove it and put it in a drill and use some carbide wet and dry to reduce size. Or a reamer..... for the vinyl.
 
I've turned large diameter hardened tool steel before and it seriously cut like butter - no sound, no chattering, no complaints from anything. Sure, lots of pyrotechnics with sparks and embers flying in all directions (very spectacular visually) but cut better than anything else I've ever cut in metal. It was a large(ish) very powerful lathe but with standard carbide insert (no diamond).
It was the complete opposite to turning carbide - which is a serious PITA even with diamond!

TP
 
The dimension for hole size for a long playing record according to the RIAA is 0.286" + 0.001" -0.002". your calipers show the dia of your spindle is 7.25mm which is .285", which gives about .001" total clearance. not much clearance! You can get a .288" dia straight fluted ream from Grainger for $65. that will be enough clearance so its not a chore to place your records on.
Or, for a more realistic price, go to McMaster-Carr and get a .2870, a .2875, or a .2880 reamer for about $31.
Bonus: they have lots of other useful hardware items!
https://www.mcmaster.com/
 
Silicon Carbide paper is the way to go. I’d start with 320 for the bulk of the removal and finish up with 600. A metal polish like flitz will make it look like it did before. Put masking tape on the platten to protect it. I’d glue the paper on a flat piece of wood like a throat lozenge. Spray the paper with some windex to act as a lube and start cutting. Just check every little bit until it is where you need it. If it’s truly hardened it will take more time and effort than you think. If you are in a hurry a diamond impregnated lapping stick that they sell to sharpen carbide router cutters will get it done fast. It of course is already bonded to a flat piece of steel and cuts quick.

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-3Gri...650254116&sprefix=diamond+hone,aps,84&sr=8-17
 
3D print a new spindle, who says it has to be steel???
Yes it has to be a hardened alloy of steel. This reduces friction to absolute minimum when used against a hard plate or jewel and the spindle has a spherical end on it. Some have sharp points but essentially the same. Also it helps counteracting any misaligned bending moments with a belt driven drive. That’s another reason belt driven tables have longer spindles with deep bearings.
 
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