Caliber ISP - Level 2 build

Discussion in 'High Power Rocketry (HPR)' started by downhill_D, Feb 2, 2019.

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  1. Feb 2, 2019 #1

    downhill_D

    downhill_D

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    Ok! So a few Level 1 flights and I will be up to attempting my Level 2 later in the year. In order to achieve this I am using the LOC Caliber ISP. I owned one before long ago and never flew it. I bought a kit recently and discovered like all LOC's other kits it contains some awesome changes including a baffle kit. I decided not to use the baffle kit as this rocket has limited laundry space and I am using JLCR for now with plans to build out the payload over the next few months for a true Dual deploy. The first few flights will be I"s in the 54/452 casing with a J later in the year using a 54/1706 I purchased on sale during Xmas.

    I will try to keep the photos updated as I go but have already installed some things. I will give a photo and how/what technique was used for construction for each piece. As with any build I post I am open to construction critiques. I wouldn't post it here if I wasn't willing to get opinions and I am not an expert by any means and am still learning from my level 1 attempt that almost didn't happen so please if you see something that could improve, feel free to say so. I made some changes to the kit but plan to use a J to attempt level 2 later in the year.

    I am excluding the baffle kit-it is big and takes up a lot of space between the front of my 54/1706 casing and where my main chute will be for now. I did consider the removable baffle approach.

    Some things useful for my construction:

    The rockets instruction sheet :)
    • Magnet on a stick
    • 300mm bicycle spoke for placing epoxy (wiped clean and reused)
    • old 1/8" launch rod for placing epoxy for forward centering ring (wiped clean and reused)
    • Japanese backsaw (razorsaw)
    • Polder digital Kitchen scale for weighing epoxy
    • 30 min BSI epoxy
    • Rocket poxy
    • JB weld epoxy
    • 5lb density, 2 part foam
    • 1/4" eyebolt and nut with 2 large flange washers
    • Homemade aft centering ring (a third one) using SIG aircraft "Lite" ply (~50% lighter than standard aircraft ply)
    • 1500lb test Kevlar (overlaps around motor mount) (not glued) out the sides of the forward ring and the two ends meet at top of body tube to connect the longer provided flat nylon shock cord.
    • Krylon fusion
    • Vinyl Frog brand vinyl for cutting special effect colors not achieved with paint
    • A rectangular cardboard box with two half circle cutouts for a "secure" cradle :rolleyes:

    I will post pictures later today when I start adding fillets.
     
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  2. Feb 2, 2019 #2

    JDcluster

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    It's an old time favorite of mine. It has 20 or more flights on it.
    I did glass mine for durability.
    I still have it and it in flying condition.
    Purchased back in 1999 or so.
    Last flight was on an EX 54 mm x 1250 Ns ish moon burner to 7,100 ft.
     
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  3. Feb 2, 2019 #3

    EeebeeE

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    At NSL I built one for a competition to see who could build a LOC Caliper and fly it the highest on an I-65. I won. I got 5,865' out of it, but mine was built light and I don't intend for it to break mach. However, I do intend for to to hit close to 12,000' on a CTI K160. Here are some photos of mine. The series of launch photos showed rotation was minimal. For that reason I reconfigured the AV Bay to hold a #18 Keychain camera when I fly it with the K160. Should get a great video.

    This is a great L2 rocket because you'll get a lot of performance out of it. Sounds like you want to get a little more speed out of yours. Just make sure you use a tracker.

    Caliber Contest 3.jpg Caliber Launch 2a.jpg Caliber Launch 5.jpg Cal AV Bay 1.jpg Cal AV Bay 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
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  4. Feb 2, 2019 #4

    dr wogz

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    I built one for the NSL Caluber challenge too. Launched in on Sunday to 52-somerhing. And I got it back about 2 months later!!

    Fin broke, some holes punched in it, but all now repaired.. gonna push it this summer!
     
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  5. Feb 3, 2019 #5

    downhill_D

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    oh man!
    I remember reading about that contest, it was a good idea!
    That is a nice paint job! I certainly like the idea of breaking mach with this one but I am going to wait a while. I want to have lots of flights not one glorious "where did it go" final flight. :). Yes a tracker is definitely needed for this bird-I am looking at eggtimers and have great hands on learning ability but will admit the video of those tiny solders spots is intimidating! or I learn how to radio :eek:

    Nice av bay-still designing mine-I used a spiffy coupler recently so now the opening is reduced and my av base needs trimming :rolleyes:

    I really want to get altitude, good flights and eventually will glass it one day. I owned one in the 90's and never ever got to fly it...so here I am in 2019 ready to fly one with time on my side. I am using a 54/452 casing for first flights-gonna warm this bird up on some I's. The club I fly with has a waiver of 6500' so anything higher will most likely be a special event.

    That should be a good video!
     
  6. Feb 3, 2019 #6

    EeebeeE

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    There should be more contests like it. Same rocket. Same motor. It is all up to the builder to make it perform better. That and a little luck. Our club does another contest at NYPower that is the closest to a mile up without going over. With that one, you really have to know your rocket so it is best to use one you've flown several times.

    6,500' waiver is pretty good these days and the Caliber is a great rocket for it. You'll get some good mile-high flights out of it.
     
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  7. Feb 3, 2019 #7

    MClark

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    I used a Caliber ISP and a J125 single use for my first L2 cert fight. It was not to be as the motor ejected right at burnout. Got the cert 45 minutes later with a different rocket.

    M
     
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  8. Feb 4, 2019 #8

    downhill_D

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    That's terrible! We had a member recently lose a 6" PML on a J1299?-most horrible burnout in the sky I had ever seen. Good thing you had a spare...I'll keep that in mind on test day. I have my eye on other 54mm kits and eventually will design my own level 2. Minimum level 2/54mm would be awesome...with a good tracker.
     
  9. Feb 9, 2019 #9

    downhill_D

    downhill_D

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    Okay...a little later than a day :eek:

    I use the following adhesives-the loctite is for my rail button screws. I installed the motor mount in the standard way (according to directions) but first carefuly drilled two holes in the forward ring for my kevlar to pass through. I then epoxied the forward ring and motor mount inside the body but installed the aft rings dry to be removed for access to the fincan later. Once this cures I remove the aft rings (with a bicycle spoke through the fin slot carefully) for fin installation.

    I wrapped the kevlar in masking tape where it makes contact with the epoxy fillets of the forward ring. I also use 30 min epoxy for fin attachment and first fillets. Final outer fillets are in rocketpoxy. My fin can has 2 part expanding foam installed once fin fillets are cured and then is sealed off with TWO aft rings (one custom made). I am hoping this will help translate larger motor forces to the outer side of the BT and not the MMT. It isnt a full aft closure but the rings butts up against the fin tabs nicely leaving just enough room for my aeropack retainer.
     

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  10. Feb 9, 2019 #10

    downhill_D

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    The inside of the main BT with kevlar and you can just make out the rail button tab jb welded inside-I used a pair of pliers to really pull the rail button tabs into placewith a spare rail button screw installed-it worked well.

    The first coat of red went on yesterday so the next coat will be applied tomorrow. (1 minute or 48 hours between coats). I sanded the nose cone and the BT today prepped for the next coat. The nose cone will be changing to black-the chameleon vinyl didnt go well with light metallic silver or vintage bronze.
     

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  11. Feb 9, 2019 #11

    downhill_D

    downhill_D

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    I added a stiffy coupler to the payload section and upgraded the eyebolt to a 1/4" eye for weight forward and strength. I removed the bottom of the nosecone as it was impeding the use of quite a bit of payload space.
     

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  12. Feb 9, 2019 #12

    downhill_D

    downhill_D

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    The vinyl is hard to get the color variation into a picture but it goes from green to purple-pretty cool-gonna see how long this automotive vinyl stays attached at high speeds ;)

    I decided to get a 54/452 case since I can already fly level 1 "I" motors and I wanted to break the rocket in with some gentle heat and nudges. :D

    I dialed in the simulations on rocksim and a k185 puts this around 10k-a "perfect" flight in rocksim also good in the 2d sim. maybe someday. I did however encounter my first thermal at my last launch. I put a graduator up on an H180 and it opened my main at 500ft...3/4 mile away. I am not opposed to searching for my rocket on foot but I was lucky to have my iOS compass out that day. I am now looking at trackers and feel they are for me now. I am considering the featherweight at this point. This caliber ISP has massive altitude potential and so will the next rockets so I am going to need it.
     
  13. Feb 9, 2019 #13

    downhill_D

    downhill_D

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    currently 2 lbs 11.6 ounces and growing (in paint and payload parts). :)
     

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  14. Feb 16, 2019 #14

    downhill_D

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    So I am now down to painting and sanding and won't have a motor for next club launch yet so I am going to bring the rocket to the launch anyway. I thought it would be a good idea to take it to the club to have everyone there look at the build and make sure it will be ready for my level 2 later on. I am always open to a build critique and why not have the experienced members give input? :) I will post up some thoughts after the launch. I am working to learn about DD from the payload/nosecone side. I have a JLCR but I also want to have redundancy and just purchased a strattologger so that will be my start for the learning curve. It has been a big part of the hobby for a long time so I should learn it. I recently also learned about electronic smoke charges-is this any better than just using straight line (colored) powder?
     
  15. Feb 16, 2019 #15

    mbeels

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    Looking good! I'm curious what happened with your L1 launch, that made it almost not? I agree, this is a good place to garner input and learn from others experience.
     
  16. Feb 17, 2019 #16

    downhill_D

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    The L1 launch went fine but the chute release set at 500 ft opened at about 64 ft-quite a heartstopping koment but it did fully open and it was successful. I am folding the chute quite a bit differently now for the JLCR and paying mind to the current fall rate :rolleyes:
     
  17. Feb 19, 2019 #17

    downhill_D

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    I saw some really good dual deployment setups at last launch but am now a little confused about forward deployment. The retail av bays I see take the place of the coupler in a rocket. I have already epoxied the stock coupler and bulkhead/eyebolt on. Can I still run forward deployment with the main chute? I was considering trying a kit instead of making my own from a baffle kit or something.
     
  18. Feb 19, 2019 #18

    downhill_D

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    actually it was 254 ft (just checked the data) just felt lower :eek:...still heart stopping at the moment...
     
  19. Feb 19, 2019 #19

    dr wogz

    dr wogz

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    to clarify: you glued the bulk plate to the coupler. did you glue the coupler into the body tube?
     
  20. Feb 19, 2019 #20

    downhill_D

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    yes and yes. I was going to use rivets for a removable coupler but beefed the coupler up (coupler + stiff coupler) making it far too thick for rivets so I epoxied it in place. I was planning on making it "K" capable. I could always order a new BT (I already have an extra coupler or two) but was hoping to use my existing payload if possible since it is done.
     
  21. Feb 20, 2019 #21

    downhill_D

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    Ok so I ordered new LOC tubes so I can rebuild the payload bay and ordered a blue tube a/v bay. I will be able to use the original payload bay, just not DD without the switchable bay I am going to build. Lesson learned, don't glue the bulkhead, coupler and BT of the payload if you WANT to do forward deployment. At least there will be room for a tracker regardless of which bay I use so the "K" flight is still feasible with the original overbuilt payload bay. Gotta love quick links!
     
  22. Feb 20, 2019 #22

    downhill_D

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    I would normally just try and build my own a/v bay but this will help me better understand the function and components for the electronics-have not soldered electronics much and it was about 20 years ago. Got some good tips though from an electrician friend at work today! I will practice with old electronics stuff first.
     
  23. Feb 25, 2019 #23

    downhill_D

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    So I received the blue tube av bay 2.0 and must say it is a very nice design. As I see how these go together I can now design a better functionality with my own design once this is complete.

    I bought a couple switches today and have not decided which to use yet. One is a small simple switch with a metal body and the other is the type I’ve seen people use flagged small brass rods/dowels they pull out of the rocket to turn on the system. Anyone have any thoughts on which of these is better:
     

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  24. Feb 25, 2019 #24

    Nytrunner

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    When it comes to switches, there are a number of opinions (much like adhesives)

    Some will suggest you use a switch that can in no way open under G-forces (like a screw switch)
    Others will say either of those switches are fine.
    Others still will say "why do you need a switch? just twist the wires together and tape!"

    You'll have to try them out and figure out which you like best.
    Personally, I like rocker switches that I can probe for and get a tactile feel when they activate.
     
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  25. Feb 25, 2019 #25

    mbeels

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    True!

    Just to add more options into the mix, there are also screw type switches. You can either buy them, or make your own. Tighten a screw down between two metal surfaces to complete the circuit. They're pretty small, light, and cheap.
     
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  26. Feb 28, 2019 #26

    downhill_D

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    2lbs 14.8 oz just with the new electronics bay with switchband. I also took good advice and purchased an eggtimer tracker and wifi switch-hopefully it will be here soon. I think it is the right move. One piece of advice I received was that I did not need a featherweight tracker, it really is way more tracking distance than I need even though I really like the iOS compatibility-they are quite expensive tho. At eggtimer I paid about $160 for a tracker AND switch from eggtimer. I wont be doing the soldering but we have someone in our club I am told who will do it for a fair price. I might attempt making the wifi, been practicing with copper wire connectors but after watching the youtube quark video I am not sure yet.

    How does everyone attach the forward body tube to their electronics bays? I was thinking 4 removable plastic rivets and shear pins at the nose cone but since I can get at the inside of the bay at anytime from the aft end, should I permanently attach the forward body tube above (at) the switchband or keep it removable? I will be using DD with forward deployment. I cut a new piece of body tube to match the original length of the isp payload bay...with an exacto and it came out quite well.
     
  27. Feb 28, 2019 #27

    downhill_D

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    do you have a picture of how you attached your BP wells for the DD? I am starting to plan where everything will go on the boards and bulkheads and appreciate your bay photos as a guide of how people are building them.
     
  28. Feb 28, 2019 #28

    Nytrunner

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    For the AV bay setup, I'd suggest rivets over permanent install. That way you wont have to reach in a tube to attach recovery or place charges and initiators.

    3 should be fine
     
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  29. Feb 28, 2019 #29

    downhill_D

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    That is what I suspected others were installing-I have plastic rivets so that works well. Thanks!
     
  30. Mar 3, 2019 #30

    EeebeeE

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    To save weight I am not using BP wells. I am using paper and tape and basically making electric firecrackers. Normally, I use copper plumbing ends, but for this, I didn't want to add the 2 oz. that those would weigh.
     
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