- May 19, 2011
- Reaction score
I simply LOVE your use of RTV rubber for getting the decal down where it belongs.
One can of each should be plenty, although you might pick up an extra can of gloss aluminum. Be sure to use the Tamiya primer for the plastic parts, too.Never tried Tamiya paints before. Will one can of Aluminum and the White be enough? I would think the one of the black will be enough.
For the non-aluminum surfaces I plan on using an acrylic satin finish overcoat, using this product sprayed through an airbrush:Just curious, if one is to be used, what would you recommend as a flat clear overcoat???
John, how are non RTV rubber owning builders expected to do this? Is there a method to get those decals down in the grooves discussed in the directions, or being a level 4 kit did you plan on us knowing a way ourselves?I simply LOVE your use of RTV rubber for getting the decal down where it belongs.
In addition to what James said, let me emphasize this:Just curious, if one is to be used, what would you recommend as a flat clear overcoat???
I will say that I made less use of the RTV molded strip than I expected to. As I wrote, I used the model brush to help press the decal into the corrugations, brushing lengthwise and forcing excess Micro Set out. The decal snuggled in pretty well by itself. I only used the RTV near the end when there were a few spots not down all the way. Without the RTV strip I would have just applied a bit more Micro Set to those areas and carefully used the brush to try to get them worked in. It does require a bit of time to let the decal and Micro Set to dry some, but you should come back to it before it totally dries out.John, how are non RTV rubber owning builders expected to do this? Is there a method to get those decals down in the grooves discussed in the directions, or being a level 4 kit did you plan on us knowing a way ourselves?
+100 on this. In particular the Testors spray clear products (matte and gloss) have a long and infamous history of attacking decal materials, which is one of the reasons that I am such a vocal proponent of using only airbrushed acrylic clear overcoats....a homemade decal (or decal from another source) may react differently than the kit decal.
One of the worst experiences I had was a clear coat that literally attacked the decal, ruining it.
A few random comments concerning Micro Sol and Walthers Solvaset, a similar (but more aggressive!) product...So, to me, the biggest trick is using Micro Set, not just water. And actually, I was intending to use Micro Sol, which is a more aggressive decal liquid, softens them up even more, but the hobby store was out of it. But that might have caused problems with the initial application. So now I think that a good way would be a one-two punch, using Micro Set to get the decal on and the initial snuggle down, then for any trouble areas, then break out the Micro Sol.
For those who can't justify getting any setting solution at all, then try White Vinegar. I do not recall if Micro Set is simply 100% White Vinegar, or not. Also.... test.....
John, how are non RTV rubber owning builders expected to do this?
Hit that puppy with some Solvaset, slice it open with a sharp blade, and it should settle right down into the corrugation.Today I discovered that the A near the spice ring had a void under part of it.
I applied Micro Set, let it sit bit, applied more Micro Set, then pushed the RTV negative pattern over it and let it sit. A few hours later, it looks good. Without the RTV pattern, I may have perhaps used a small needle to puncture the clear part of the void, then apply Micro Set and repeat every 15 mins or so for awhile, and carefully pressed with a brush by the 3rd application. Or if Id had something stronger Id have used Micro Sol, or Solvaset as James Duffy mentioned.
Thing I'd be concerned about by slicing it, is that when done there could be a visible gap where the slice was. That is why I mentioned if I did not have the RTV negative pattern to help, i'd have pierced a clear area and used Micro Sol or Solvaset if I had any (More of a Plan B recommendation for those who won't be trying the RTV pattern trick)Hit that puppy with some Solvaset, slice it open with a sharp blade, and it should settle right down into the corrugation.
Thanks. The silver Krylon in retrospect was a mistake, the clear coat helped but still it is not as smooth as I'd like. I wish I'd been more patient to try to get the Tamiya Aluminum like you are using.The model looks great, George! I really look forward to seeing it with the final wraps in place. The silver you've chosen really turned out nicely.
I have had 100% success using Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic Clear over decals, and every type of paint. It comes in Gloss and Matte. I am interested in the airbrush clear you used that has a Satin finish.+100 on this. In particular the Testors spray clear products (matte and gloss) have a long and infamous history of attacking decal materials, which is one of the reasons that I am such a vocal proponent of using only airbrushed acrylic clear overcoats.
Really?I think everyone needs to buy two of these kits. One to quickly throw together and fly and one to build for a display model, and one to store away for the future. So make that everybody needs to buy at least three of these kits.
I received mine late last week and have done a little work on it. This thread has been a great resource, although I probably won't be too concerned about a perfect finish. This one I actually hope to fly so it's bound to take a bit of a beating. I am really glad that Estes released it. I have the old Centuri kit and the Estes one defintely looks to be an easier build.I keep waiting for someone other than George to start their build...anyone out there working on one of these yet? If you're somehow intimidated by this kit, you really shouldn't be. I've only got about 15 hours invested so far, and should be done before the clock reaches 20 hours. C'mon, get to work!
* I know this isn't a word, but it should be.
Nice.....with that and the tube to match, that 1/45 S-1B is not too tough of a scratch build.I hate to reduce sales of this kit but there are plans on selling a replacement set for the capsule parts in the near future. Sorry, but I don't know what the price is but I'm sure it will only be offered on the Estes web site.