Build thread: Really Koo Stuff 1/100 N1 Moon Rocket

[kuririn]

The 3rd and 4th stage BT-60 tube is glued on to the centering rings.
One half of the third stage is dry fitted to check for clearance and adjustments.



Then four pins are cemented into the four holes in one half of the third stage.


And it's all allowed to dry.
TBC.

 

[kuririn]

While gluing the first two stages a grid fin brushed up against my leg and the lower two glue contact joints popped.
Easily repaired, but this seems to be a point of concern for landing damage. Perhaps this is why two extra fins are supplied.
I wonder if it would be possible to 3D print a hinge and rod and glue the grid fin to that? Also would be more scale realistic. Up for display, down for flight.


A hinged grid fin would stand a better chance of surviving landing contact I would think.
More give, less damage.
Anyhoo, third and fourth stages get glued later today.
TBC.

 

[kuririn]

Third and fourth stages are glued to the skeleton.
Plastic to plastic: modeling cement.
Plastic to paper: epoxy.


Oops, I did it again.


If I had to do it over I would glue the grid fins on last.
Easily repaired but it hasn't even maidened yet.
Next: Trusses.

 

[PhlAsh]

...
I think there is an unwritten Law of Epoxy:
No matter how careful you are, you WILL get some on you.
Or your clothes.
...

I managed do some epoxying last night on the WM Andromeda without getting any on me! (there, now I've just jinxed the whole weekend!). Once I finish that, I'll move on to my N-1

 

[PhlAsh]

The display tower is finer resolution and fit the nose cone without sanding.
The stock tower had residue/flash stuck to it even after the support material was removed and required considerable sanding to fit.

I was wondering why there were 2 towers. (no, I haven't looked at the instructions yet...)

 

[kuririn]

Trusses have been glued on. Initially I was going to use modeling cement, so I started sanding off the paint in the areas where the trusses contact the airframe. Glue to paint = not good, right?
But the instructions again say to use contact adhesive. The picture in the instructions shows Gorilla Glue contact adhesive. It is a clear, thick goopy adhesive. It also says the glue can be peeled off.
So I'm guessing it's similar to clear silicon adhesive.
Unfortunately as I mentioned Home Depot does not have that particular adhesive.
Fortunately I think I have something similar. It's called Foam2foam. I believe it's a silicone adhesive cuz when I roll the half dried glue on my fingers it balls up with that "silicone feel", if you know what I mean.
Anyhoo, that's what I used:
Lower trusses.


Upper trusses


There will be a gap in the lower trusses that you will want to line up with the launch lug hole


Same with the upper trusses


Main engine nozzles for display only.


And the plaque.


A Top Flight 48" X Chute is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
So I'm calling this build done.
Just need to do some minor brush touchup.


Flight video whenevah.
Thanks for following.

 

[Antares JS]

Nice, love it. Looking forward to building mine. Good luck whenever you get around to flying it.

 

[Funkworks]

I don't think any other rocket has as many surface knick knacks as this one and I like it!

 

[kuririn]

David sent me an email. Check out this great build with home printed decals:
Guy’s “Stylized” N1 Moon Rocket! – Really Koo Stuff
There are downloadable decal files for those of you building this kit.
I'm thinking I might add a Soviet flag also.
Laters.

 

[David_Stack]

What a great build!

I wonder if something like Beacon Fabri-Tac would have worked as an adhesive for the trusses?

 

[kuririn]

What a great build!

I wonder if something like Beacon Fabri-Tac would have worked as an adhesive for the trusses?

Maybe. I think it has some acetone.
I just used some yesterday to bond the plastic centering rings of an R3 Honeybee Micromaxx rocket to the cardboard airframe.

 

[OC-Patrick]

That is so ....Koo...!

Both N-1's a little pricey for me at the moment. Will consider the Soyuz once that's in production. Let us know how it flies.

 

[aerostadt]

This is really a nice looking model!

 

[Lemmiwinks]

Those earlier Soviet era spacecraft really do like alien, very interesting. Now the Buran on the other hand...

 

[Lemmiwinks]

This is very cool, but how likely to get 6 D12's to light as the same time?

 

[Funkworks]

This is very cool, but how likely to get 6 D12's to light as the same time?

I would think these are pretty reliable:
https://www.rocketarium.com/Launch-Equipment/Cluster/6

 

[aerostadt]

This is very cool, but how likely to get 6 D12's to light as the same time?

The Altaira N-1 model has the option to use 6 D12's. This is a different company and only uses one motor.

 

[Daddyisabar]

I just bought one. Any updates?

 

[kuririn]

A fellow rocketeer just flew his here about a week ago.
Around the 9:03 mark:
Updates... | Page 42 | The Rocketry Forum
A little squirrelly but no damage.

If I was building again new, I would consider replacing the BT-50 skeleton with a BT-50H.
(You will have to sand out and slightly widen the openings in the 3D printed parts).
My N-1 toppled over on the carpeted floor and the core got bent.
Will repair and maiden at the first opportunity.
I need a big field.

 

[jqavins]

My N-1 toppled over on the carpeted floor and the core got bent.
Will repair and maiden at the first opportunity.

Push in a length of BMS's long coupler stock to both straighten and reinforce the core tube?

 

[kuririn]

Push in a length of BMS's long coupler stock to both straighten and reinforce the core tube?

Exactomundo.
But not from BMS.

 

[jqavins]

Who else has long (around 34") coupler stock? It's always good to have a second source.

 

[aerostadt]

Thanks for the video in post #49. This looks like really nice model.

 

[jqavins]

A little squirrelly but...

better than the Soviet's ever achieved.

 

[kuririn]

Who else has long (around 34") coupler stock? It's always good to have a second source.

Semroc Coupler/Centering Ring Stock BT-20 to BT-50 34"(1pk) TT-CPL-20-50-34 (erockets.biz)
On sale for $1.99.
MSRP is $7.99
They asked if they could cut the 34" coupler in half since the shipping would be substantially less so I said go ahead. I was going to cut it into sections anyway.
Also picked up 34" long BT-20 coupler stock.

 

[Steven40]

Hi Folks,

Just joined the group; working on 1/100 N1. Looking good, lots of sanding!

I agree that core tube reinforcement is a good idea...lots of stress on a small cardboard tube.

Question: How did you align the different stages, aside from having the launch rod clear the fuel duct work?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[boomtube-mk2]

I was thinking EXTERMINATE... EXTERMINATE...

 

[kuririn]

Question: How did you align the different stages, aside from having the launch rod clear the fuel duct work?

Oh, so you want accuracy?
There are dimensional drawings in Alway's Rockets of the World p. 71.

 

[Steven40]

Thanks! I don't have a copy....if that's what you used to set yours up. I'll carefully study your photos.

David Koo claims his model to be about 90% accurate citing conflicting references. In any case it will make a striking model and look good with my Apogee S-1B
(here modeled with my grandson!

Steve

 

[BigMacDaddy]

Beautiful model!

You inspired me to go back to a 3D design I was occasionally working on to try to make my on N1 (downloaded files from Thingiverse but too many issues to make a strong print for rocketry so redesigning / rebuilding)...