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Build Thread: LOC/Precision 3" Iris 38mm. "The Comeback Kit". First build in 20 years!

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thzero

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Looking good... certainly the paint was the most time consuming, even though I had done a custom FG build for my level 1. With my 3" build, I actually had built a rotisserie to be used in fiberglassing the tube. Found that it worked out relative well for the tubes to be able to paint and spin.

Still need to figure out the av bay and recovery system, but she's ready for final touch-up sanding and then primer and paint!
 

Mach_Seven

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While making final preperations for paint, I kept seeing this fillet that wasn't like the others. I went ahead and re-shaped it.
IMG_0649.jpegimage_67191041.JPGimage_50370561.JPG
 

Mach_Seven

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Looking good... certainly the paint was the most time consuming, even though I had done a custom FG build for my level 1. With my 3" build, I actually had built a rotisserie to be used in fiberglassing the tube. Found that it worked out relative well for the tubes to be able to paint and spin.
Got any pics or vids of your 3" Iris?
 

Mach_Seven

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Ready to dress her out!! I'm going to try and get the payload bay and nosecone painted tonight. Everything has been sanded smooth and given an alcohol wipe down. I can't wait to see how the mirrored chrome looks!
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Mach_Seven

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I've applied the first coats of primer and paint to the payload bay and primer to the booster section. The carefully filled and sanded airframe that felt baby smooth everywhere shows many imperfections that need to be filled and sanded still. This rocket is now mocking my efforts and there's a rift in our relationship.
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After several hours, I just had to say "good enough" and move on with my life.
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Mach_Seven

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Used a clear coat and got a nice finish on the nosecone! Ha ha. This is so fun and easy!! Ha ha. If there's anyone in the Stuart, FL area, can you please stop by and shoot me? (Just plug me from the road. I'd rather not know when it's coming...)

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More on this disaster later.
 

Nytrunner

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Alright, paint rehab!

-What were the conditions while you painted, and did they match the required range on the back of the can (color and clear)?
-Did you obey the recoat/clearcoat window time listed on the cans?
-Did the nosecone still smell like paint when you went to clear coat it? (Plastic cones may require a longer curing time)
 

richP

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Couple of things on the nosecone. First, you have to clean it thoroughly with soap and painfully hot water. Like, repeat 3-4 times. Then, use an adhesion promoter, follow the directions.
I've always had better results with a filler primer when I know that sanding will be required.
 
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Mach_Seven

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"The Legend of the Chrome Paint"
A tale like you've never heard! For all you paint experts, I think this one may stump you!

 
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Mach_Seven

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Couple of things on the nosecone. First, you have to clean it thoroughly with soap and painfully hot water. Like, repeat 3-4 times. Then, use an adhesion promoter, follow the directions.
I've always had better results with a filler primer when I know that sanding will be required.
I will definitely find a filler primer next time. As for the nose cone, the only prep I did was to sand it smooth with 220 and 400, then sprayed it with alcohol and wiped it down. This wasn't the problem, I don't believe. Check out the Part 7 video to see what went wrong. Very nunusual.
 

Nytrunner

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So the clear just dulled it, but the turtle wax caused bubbling paint herpes? Fascinating

@neil_w what Future floor wax product have you used on chrome style paints? (thinking Alcubierre)
I'm wondering if there would be different issues on the nosecone where it can't offgas downwards like it can on a body tube

Fascinating about the chrome issues.
You mentioned you could try Lacquer clear, but I'd highly recommend only doing it on a test piece first. Generally the paint series is Acrylic over Enamel over Lacquer (since the solvents of Lacquer is hotter than Enamel which is hotter than Acrylic)

*pronounced Nightrunner, but Nytrunner is never taken when I start an online game, so it stuck. I have no affiliation or connection to the new york times
 

neil_w

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For Rusto silver metallic (very different from chrome) I have applied Future normally (foam brush), and the results look great to me.
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Tractionengines

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Stop at paint shop that does custom motorcycles. I have found they have painted on almost every type of base material. And with all kinds of paints....just be ready to sit thru listening to 2+hours of war-stories till they get to the solution...if you try to hurry to the end they will send you away without answering what worked.
 

Mach_Seven

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Meanwhile, as the chrome paint mystery continues...

Back In Black, Baby!
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My girl's looking downright sassy!
 
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OKTurbo

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Sorry to hear about your troubles. I’ve had similar experiences over the years with chrome / metallic paints. On my 1/3 scale (4” dia) Iris I used Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. It’s the best looking metallic finish I’ve ever gotten but it takes a little fussing to get it right. The surface needs to be very smooth and you first layer of color is gloss black. If you get the gloss black polished and shiny, the spaz stix goes on great Using very light dusting coats until you get the look you want. It will still look a little dull until you lightly polish it with a soft cloth.

i never added a clear coat because I didn’t want to mess it up, but if was to put on clear, it would probably be ‘Future” floor polish. It’s a water based acrylic and would have less chance off messing up the chrome. I still have my old bottle when it was still called Future...the latest re-branding is called Pledge Revive It....you want the bottle. Not the spray can stuff. https://www.pledge.com/en-us/products/pledge-floor-gloss

it works great as a simple gloss coat to shine up a rocket and help protect vinyl stickers and decals. Smells good too.

C1339B27-1646-4614-9B1E-7D66FC520CBF.jpeg
 

OKTurbo

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some more thoughts. Mine was a custom balsa nose cone. For plastic cones, you want to give them a good washing with some dish soap to get all the release agent etc off. I like to spray on a coat of adhesion promoter so the paint sticks better. I’ve used duplicolor cp199 with good results. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/adhesion-promoter/

hope this helps,
John
 

Mach_Seven

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Rocketry Live on a Friday Night!
Tonight's Episode: "Camera Angle Bad, Content Good!"

Can men drink White Claws? (0:50)
Dare attempt fail. (2:15)
Secret Weapon Discovered! (3:20)
Final Battle with chrome paint scheduled this weekend! (5:07)
Recovery and Payload philosophy. (15:05)
Sexy Reveal and Naming Party! (19:00)

Karl snaps! (27:40)
 
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Mach_Seven

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Sorry to hear about your troubles. I’ve had similar experiences over the years with chrome / metallic paints. On my 1/3 scale (4” dia) Iris I used Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. It’s the best looking metallic finish I’ve ever gotten but it takes a little fussing to get it right. The surface needs to be very smooth and you first layer of color is gloss black. If you get the gloss black polished and shiny, the spaz stix goes on great Using very light dusting coats until you get the look you want. It will still look a little dull until you lightly polish it with a soft cloth.

i never added a clear coat because I didn’t want to mess it up, but if was to put on clear, it would probably be ‘Future” floor polish. It’s a water based acrylic and would have less chance off messing up the chrome. I still have my old bottle when it was still called Future...the latest re-branding is called Pledge Revive It....you want the bottle. Not the spray can stuff. https://www.pledge.com/en-us/products/pledge-floor-gloss

it works great as a simple gloss coat to shine up a rocket and help protect vinyl stickers and decals. Smells good too.

View attachment 450306
This looks fantastic. Nice work. I have the all black and white scheme going on the booster. I'm thinking of taking one side of one fin and painting it bright red. Kinda like C-3PO's unexplained red arm in The Force Awakens.
 

Mach_Seven

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I have a pen shaped spy cam with the lens perpendicular to it's axis and the record button is the clicker. By leaning it at a 45 degree angle, I was able to get this super-low profile, and the Record button is controlled on the outside! Put it in standby mode, then record right before you leave the pad.
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Mach_Seven

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Finished the finish! 0:00
You won't believe the materials used already. 1:40
Genius camera rig! 4:00
Final thoughts on color scheme and what I've learned. 7:42
Spin Stabilization?!? 10:30
Thinking through the recovery system. 12:29

 
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