Build Thread - Loc Nuke Pro Maxx

Discussion in 'High Power Rocketry (HPR)' started by JoeTekcor, May 1, 2019.

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  1. May 1, 2019 #1

    JoeTekcor

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    Finally getting around to starting my Nuke Pro Maxx. My last build was a Madcow 4” Patriot so I wanted something smaller and faster.
    Wanted another build before I went for my level 2 so I thought this would be a fun one
    IMG_6208.jpg
    Sanded my fins
    IMG_6362.jpg
    Decided to go the fin can approach. With a 2.6” diameter I knew I wouldn’t have a lot of working room inside.
    Tacked the fins with wood glue
    IMG_6364.jpg
    Internal fillets complete.
    IMG_6368.jpg
    Once that cures I’ll add the forward centering ring with the Kevlar cord wrapped around the motor tube.
     
  2. May 3, 2019 #2

    JoeTekcor

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    Forward centering ring and Kevlar cord attached.
    IMG_6373.jpg
    I’ve ordered a set of syringes and tubing.
    This weekend I’ll glue the fin can into the body tube
     
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  3. May 3, 2019 #3

    Theory

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    I like this one. Not sure that I agree with the fin can approach but it looks like you are doing a good job

    This kit is surly on my short list as I dig the high value and performance potential
     
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  4. May 3, 2019 #4

    JoeTekcor

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    I’ve seen the posts debating it but I wanted to try it at least once. I’ve got an extra coupler tube that I’ll cut a quarter inch off to reinforce the tail.
     
  5. May 3, 2019 #5

    afadeev

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    It's a cool kit, but beware of those pointy plywood fins.
    I broke 2 of mine petty quickly, one of them about 2/3rds of the way to the body tube. No easy way to repair (without glassing), nor remove the fin once it's properly epoxied in place.
    No matter how the rocket lands, there will be force excreted on one of those pointy fin ends.

    It could have been that my fins came out of a flaky plywood sheet, or it could be that all of them are susceptible to damage.

    Slide-in fincan build vs. sliding fins into the slots is 6 of one / 1/2 dozen the other.
    But working on the eBay, if you are going dual deploy, will be pretty tight. Doable, but tight.

    You can just cover the exposed edge of the airframe, aft of the motor retainer, with a thin layer of epoxy. It will be sturdier than any other part of the rocket.
     
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  6. May 3, 2019 #6

    JoeTekcor

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    Ebay will just hold tracker and altimeter for now. Using Chute Release.
     
  7. May 18, 2019 #7

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_6437.jpg
    IMG_6442.jpg
    Fin can attached. I added a coupler behind the rear centering ring to add support and give me something to glue the tabs I cut out to.
    Internal fillets were done with a syringe and aquarium tubing. Worked ok. Not as easy as I thought it’d be.
    It looks like crap but it’s secure. I’ll clean it up with filler and paint.
    I’ll use jb weld to attach the motor retainer and coat the rear centering ring to fill in the holes.

    Next I’ll do the external fillets. Hoping to have more time this weekend to work on it.
     
  8. May 19, 2019 #8

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_6446.jpg
    Got as far as taping for the fillets.
     
  9. May 29, 2019 #9

    PT3

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    That’s a great kit. I used one for my level 1 cert and it’s rock solid. Especially for the price. On the fins, I doped them with epoxy. Spread a fine layer into the balsa, then swiped away the excess and lightly sanded.

    I shredded the parachute on a level 2 attempt and had a hard landing on the fins. The fins stayed intact even though the landing was hard enough to break the fillet loose on one. Just carved away the old filet and laid a new one. Good as new.
     
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  10. Jun 16, 2019 #10

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_6527.jpg IMG_6528.jpg
    Took way too long to get back to this. Fillets done. Next I’ll fill in the spirals and touch us the fillets with wood fillet and prep for painting.
     
  11. Aug 4, 2019 #11

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_6936.jpg IMG_6935.jpg IMG_6934.jpg
    This summer has been way too busy. Finally getting around to working on this. Weather hasn’t been too corporatize for painting so it sits and waits.
    Electronics bay is done. I use a chute release so just an altimeter and tracker.
    I’ve got 3 weeks until LDRS to get it ready. It might not look pretty but it’ll be ready to fly.
     
  12. Aug 25, 2019 #12

    JoeTekcor

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    Paint job done. Using vinyl automotive pinstriping. Now just waiting on it to stop raining so I can clear coat it. Looking forward to launching it at LDRS. IMG_7057.jpg
    It’s been named Mr. Fahrenheit.
     
  13. Aug 25, 2019 #13

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_7058.jpg
    Paint rack.
     
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  14. Aug 27, 2019 #14

    Ian A Dalton

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    Looking good! Concerned at all about loss of GPS distance? I have a very similar setup and I only got 3400’ on a ground range test.
     
  15. Aug 27, 2019 #15

    JoeTekcor

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    To be honest I hadn’t really thought about that. I have a 9” antenna mounted on top of the electronics bay and a pretty good size antenna on the receiver.
    I guess I’ll find out this weekend. I’ll be launching it at LDRS with a planned altitude of 6000’.
     
  16. Aug 27, 2019 #16

    Wallace

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    Eric Caymberg has recommended the "slit and spread" method for this exact thing. Although I've not yet tried it, it appears to be the way to go. In lieu of cutting out sections of the BT, you simply make single slits and spread the airframe to install the fin can. Seems like it'd be much easier and probably stronger than removing/re-installing pieces...
     
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  17. Sep 1, 2019 #17

    JoeTekcor

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    IMG_7079.jpg
    Launched successfully at LDRS. My altimeter 3 lost connection as I was putting it on the pad and I wasn’t able to reconnect. Flew it on a CTI H125. Simulated close to 4000’.
    Flying it again tomorrow with an I. Hoping for around 6000’ altitude.
     
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  18. Sep 1, 2019 #18

    Wallace

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    Nice!
     
  19. Sep 5, 2019 #19

    JoeTekcor

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    The tracker saved me on both launches this past weekend. I lost connection with the tracker at about 4500' ground distance. Luckily I found the rocket in a field about 20 yards away from the last reported position.
     
  20. Sep 5, 2019 #20

    grouch

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    Sort out the tracking and stick a J in it.
     
  21. Sep 5, 2019 #21

    JoeTekcor

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    Let me get my level 2 on something low and slow first. Then I'll think about it. ;-)
     
  22. Sep 5, 2019 #22

    grouch

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    You are missing out on a sweet cert flight. I got my L2 with my Nuke on a CTI J335R. Took it 7,763' and absolutely screamed. My Nuke is my current most flown rocket. It's an absolute workhorse. I have used it to test out several iterations of electronics bays and recovery set ups. The booster has fallen twice from over 3,000 feet perfectly horizontal due to recovery failures/separations and it simply bounced with not a scratch of damage. Loc 54mm tube it stout! I love the size and form factor of the thing.
     
  23. Sep 5, 2019 #23

    JoeTekcor

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    Wow! Did you do reinforce the fins at all? OpenRocket is showing that'll hit 915mph. Also, How did you fit that motor and still have room to pack the chute? I'm barely fitting everything in with the 3G case.
     
  24. Sep 5, 2019 #24

    grouch

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    I set mine up drogue-less with a chute in the forward section under the nosecone. I used the coupler as an av-bay. The only thing ahead of the 5 grain case was shock cord. The perfect flight data read out showed the rocket went M1.3 so it was certainly moving. I didn't do anything to reinforce the fins. I just epoxied them and applied a small radiuses fillet. The fillet was pulled with an exacto handle. I have zippered the body tube once and cut it down to 20.5" and last time I checked it could still hold a 38/720 case and shock cord but it was very tight.
     
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  25. Sep 5, 2019 #25

    Cameron Anderson

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    What GPS tracking are you using?
     
  26. Sep 5, 2019 #26

    JoeTekcor

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    Eggfinder
     
  27. Sep 5, 2019 #27

    rharshberger

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    Good choice, my Eggfinder Mini led me to the nose cone of my Nuclear Sledgehammer 600' deep in a corn field!
     
  28. Sep 6, 2019 #28

    Wayco

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    Learned early on that paper rockets fare better with an altimeter. I built my first Nuke in 2011 and flew it on the H123 for my Level 1 cert. Six flights later I had to rebuild the fincan, couldn't get the delay right and either zippered the tube or broke the shock cord anchor. Second version lasted for nine flights and bought a new slotted tube from LOC, and a Stratologger. Built like grouch, avbay in the coupler and 23 flights later it's still going. Even built a clone from parts salvaged and bought and fly them both. The original is named "Duke Nukem" after a character in a video game, and the clone is "Reduke". Reduke flies mostly on I59's because it's lighter, but Duke has flown on an I366 redline and an I327 Dark Matter, both over 6000 ft. and .9 mach.
    Another thing I learned in 2013 was on our first visit to Airfest. You only need a tracker if you want to get your rocket back. The rocket pasture is a great site, but the rolling hills and crops can hide rockets. Put a tracker in it, and it lands by the road, otherwise, good luck!
    I have built over two dozen Eggfinders, and they fly in all my rockets that can go over 10,000 ft. and some that can't, just because they work so well. Made recoveries miles away with flights to 29,000 ft. You might try the stubby ant. from Mouser, use the longer one on your receiver.
     
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  29. Sep 6, 2019 #29

    Cameron Anderson

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    I'm a Missileworks T3 fan...small, affordable. Walked me straight to my L3 17,000 feet from the pad in a ditch 3 feet below ground without an issue.
     
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  30. Sep 6, 2019 #30

    JoeTekcor

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    Didn’t realize the Stratologgers were only $50. I seriously need to look into one of those.
     

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