3D Printing Budget Resin 3D Printers

[Winston]

This Resin 3D Printer is Bulletproof! Epax X1 Review
22 Nov 2019



EPAX X1 UV 5.5 inch LCD 3D Printer

https://www.amazon.com/EPAX-Printer-Screen-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07YXDGWTZ/

Elegoo Mars (Pro version pending) MSLA 3D Printer Review
4 Nov 2019



ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H)

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Photocuring-Printer-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07K3SH9Y7/

 

[BDB]

I've been printing with an Anycubic Photon for three months now. It's very similar to the ELEGOO Mars. For the money, these printers are a great way to get into resin printing. But be ready to deal with the mess--its very different for filament printing.

 

[Winston]

I've been printing with an Anycubic Photon for three months now. It's very similar to the ELEGOO Mars. For the money, these printers are a great way to get into resin printing. But be ready to deal with the mess--its very different for filament printing.

The one I'm considering is fairly new and mechanically a clone of the Photon S (parts are even interchangeable according to the reviewer video below) and the company selling it has fantastic customer support according to Amazon reviews which is usually not the case. It's $169 cheaper than a Photon S on Amazon. I'm holding off because a very important question has yet to be answered as far as I can find: where does one obtain replacement LCD modules, something which WILL definitely fail over time according to what I've read. I suspect that Anycubic Photon ones could be used considering it appears to be a Photon clone, but I'm not sure, so...

QIDI TECH Shadow 5.5 S

https://www.amazon.com/QIDI-Shadow-Printer-Equipped-Friendly/dp/B07X2PG2YB

 

[vcp]

QIDI FDM printers are pretty good, so the company has some history. The Photon S was over $100 less a couple of weeks ago. Lot of similarities. Comes with Chitubox, so it saves any temptation to fiddle with the Anycubic slicer. One difference I see is that the top of the z-axis screw is constrained - it's free on the Photon S. Hate the position of the USB port on both - should be in front. Other major difference is the completely removable cover vs the Photon hinged cover. Hinged cover is nice and doesn't need to be set aside, but the full access is nice too.

Not sure what 'Anycubic proprietary' he's talking about - Photon S can use Chitubox (which I have yet to download or look at).

 

[BDB]

You will want to use Chitubox. The slicer that comes with the Photon is not very good.

 

[Wallace]

Can anyone give real world over time (say 6 months or more) experience with SLA stuff? Consider amortizing everything involved and comparison to basic FDM stuff? In other words, is it THAT much better looking at all the potential mess/cost, etc. etc. ?

 

[BDB]

I bought both an affordable FDM (Ender 5) and SLA (Anycubic Photon) printer four months ago. I can attest that the Ender is WAY easier to use. I'm about to spend ~$100 building a heated cabinet and ventilation system for the Photon, so that adds ~50% to the price. The other significant expense is the resin, which can be over $50/L.

The Photon makes MCUH smoother parts, but that doesn't matter much to me. If you were really into printing a detailed scale model of something like the Mercury capsule, SLA would definitely be the way to go. I'm interested in building strong, heat-resistant parts. I still need to systematically test some prints before I can make any conclusions.

I should also say that I'm a chemist, so I inherently like the idea of making stuff with a polymerization reaction, as opposed to simply melting a plastic filament.

 

[Winston]

Can anyone give real world over time (say 6 months or more) experience with SLA stuff? Consider amortizing everything involved and comparison to basic FDM stuff? In other words, is it THAT much better looking at all the potential mess/cost, etc. etc. ?

I don't own one yet, but I've been watching videos. The first video will give you an idea about the hassles of the process. The second is about resin care. The resolution and surface smoothness can be far beyond FDM printing.

 

[Wallace]

I don't own one yet, but I've been watching videos. The first video will give you an idea about the hassles of the process. The second is about resin care. The resolution and surface smoothness can be far beyond FDM printing.

How "FAR" is the question? Nobody seems to want to speak of dealing with all of it for more than a single print. Makes me suspicious..

 

[Wallace]

I bought both an affordable FDM (Ender 5) and SLA (Anycubic Photon) printer four months ago. I can attest that the Ender is WAY easier to use. I'm about to spend ~$100 building a heated cabinet and ventilation system for the Photon, so that adds ~50% to the price. The other significant expense is the resin, which can be over $50/L.

The Photon makes MCUH smoother parts, but that doesn't matter much to me. If you were really into printing a detailed scale model of something like the Mercury capsule, SLA would definitely be the way to go. I'm interested in building strong, heat-resistant parts. I still need to systematically test some prints before I can make any conclusions.

I should also say that I'm a chemist, so I inherently like the idea of making stuff with a polymerization reaction, as opposed to simply melting a plastic filament.

Now that is a truthful answer. Thank you. You're not claiming it's something other than what it really is. Being a Chemist you must find it intriguing correct?

 

[Winston]

Can anyone tell me why SLA slicers don't do infill or hollowing? Or can they?

How "FAR" is the question? Nobody seems to want to speak of dealing with all of it for more than a single print. Makes me suspicious..

Fumes is another issue beyond the resin contact hazard. Also, the IPA used to wash the part becomes hazmat [for disposal one guy lets the IPA evaporate, I assume not in the home, lets the remaining resin cure in the sun, and just pitches it]. Print quality can also be seen in the video:

Is resin 3D printing worth it?

 

[Winston]

Now that is a truthful answer. Thank you. You're not claiming it's something other than what it really is. Being a Chemist you must find it intriguing correct?

Please explain how claiming that SLA prints have far better resolution and surface smoothness than FDM prints is "untruthful" or "claiming it's something other than what it really is"? Why else do you think people put up with the major additional hassles of SLA?

FDM vs SLA: The Differences – Simply Explained

https://all3dp.com/fdm-vs-sla/

In FDM printers, the printer’s resolution is a factor of the nozzle size and the precision of the extruder movements (X/Y axis). The precision and smoothness of the printed models is also influenced by other factors: As the bonding force between the layers is lower than in SLA printing and as the weight of upper layers may squeeze the layers below, a number of printing problems may ensue (e.g. warping, misalignment of layers, shifting of layers, shrinking of the lower parts – for more details see this article). These compromise the precision and surface smoothness.

SLA printers consistently produce higher resolution objects and are more accurate than FDM printers. The reason: The resolution is primarily determined by the optical spot size either of the laser or the projector – and that is really small. Moreover, during printing less force is applied to the model. This way, the surface finish is much smoother. SLA prints show details an FDM printer could never produce.

In fact, the fine details an SLA printer produces is the main reason why one would consider getting an SLA printer.

 

[0011001100]

Can anyone tell me why SLA slicers don't do infill or hollowing

Because it would trap uncured resin.

 

[Wallace]

Please explain how claiming that SLA prints have far better resolution and surface smoothness than FDM prints is "untruthful" or "claiming it's something other than what it really is"? Why else do you think people put up with the major additional hassles of SLA?

FDM vs SLA: The Differences – Simply Explained

https://all3dp.com/fdm-vs-sla/

In FDM printers, the printer’s resolution is a factor of the nozzle size and the precision of the extruder movements (X/Y axis). The precision and smoothness of the printed models is also influenced by other factors: As the bonding force between the layers is lower than in SLA printing and as the weight of upper layers may squeeze the layers below, a number of printing problems may ensue (e.g. warping, misalignment of layers, shifting of layers, shrinking of the lower parts – for more details see this article). These compromise the precision and surface smoothness.
I've personally "seen" "people" "do" things I' never in my wildest dreams consider reasonable. Ya'll ain't gonna surprise me, is my point.
SLA printers consistently produce higher resolution objects and are more accurate than FDM printers. The reason: The resolution is primarily determined by the optical spot size either of the laser or the projector – and that is really small. Moreover, during printing less force is applied to the model. This way, the surface finish is much smoother. SLA prints show details an FDM printer could never produce.

In fact, the fine details an SLA printer produces is the main reason why one would consider getting an SLA printer.

I've "seen" "people" "do" "things" I'd personally never consider "reasonable". The fact that "they" "do" them does not impress..

 

[Wallace]

Please show me ,anyone, your SLA setup 6 months or more into it...

 

[Wallace]

Please explain how claiming that SLA prints have far better resolution and surface smoothness than FDM prints is "untruthful" or "claiming it's something other than what it really is"? Why else do you think people put up with the major additional hassles of SLA?

FDM vs SLA: The Differences – Simply Explained

https://all3dp.com/fdm-vs-sla/

In FDM printers, the printer’s resolution is a factor of the nozzle size and the precision of the extruder movements (X/Y axis). The precision and smoothness of the printed models is also influenced by other factors: As the bonding force between the layers is lower than in SLA printing and as the weight of upper layers may squeeze the layers below, a number of printing problems may ensue (e.g. warping, misalignment of layers, shifting of layers, shrinking of the lower parts – for more details see this article). These compromise the precision and surface smoothness.

SLA printers consistently produce higher resolution objects and are more accurate than FDM printers. The reason: The resolution is primarily determined by the optical spot size either of the laser or the projector – and that is really small. Moreover, during printing less force is applied to the model. This way, the surface finish is much smoother. SLA prints show details an FDM printer could never produce.

In fact, the fine details an SLA printer produces is the main reason why one would consider getting an SLA printer.

I'm gonna take a wag and assume you do not own an SLA printer, correct?

 

[BDB]

Please show me ,anyone, your SLA setup 6 months or more into it...

Here is my set-up for now. A space heater and some insulated panels next to the open garage door. This is why I need to build a ventilated cabinet. My favorite resin, Sirya Blu, smells pretty bad, and it literally froze in my garage this week. (I live in New England.)



This is what I printed. Most resin aficionados will tell you to print at an angle with supports, but it seems like the vertically printed bolt looks better for me.

 

[Wallace]

For strength testing? Referring to the bolts themselves. Or were you shooting for accuracy?

 

[BDB]

For now, I'm just going to hit the warped bolt with a hammer and put it in some boiling water to see how it holds up.

But I'm planning something a little more scientific for testing the strength of these 4" bulkheads. I'll post the results in a new thread whenever I get around to it.

 

[Wallace]

For now, I'm just going to hit the warped bolt with a hammer and put it in some boiling water to see how it holds up.

But I'm planning something a little more scientific for testing the strength of these 4" bulkheads. I'll post the results in a new thread whenever I get around to it.

View attachment 401611

I, We, greatly appreciate it. Thanks for posting and thanks for your efforts. And Happy Hollandaise

 

[Wallace]

How thick and what material are the bulkheads? And how loadbearing will they end up being? As in eyebolts/threaded rod type stuff? What are your intents as far as testing? I'm always looking for new ways to make things, so I have a "need" to know mentality.

 

[vcp]

I thought this review was useful because it compares four major SLA printers side-by-side (unfortunately not the QIDI though):


Although that review is fairly recent, it's somewhat out-of-date regarding the Photon S: I paid $350 for mine (Amazon, new); and the current 'S' firmware now prints .photon .photons and .pws files so there are no file compatibility issues. The reviewer also doesn't mention the dual filtered exhaust fans in the 'S', which I've heard are at least somewhat effective at reducing smell. Gonna try to get mine printing Real Soon Now.

Although he considers the exhaust fan on the Photon as less than useless, there are FDM-print add-ons on Thingiverse that use that fan with added filters or outside exhaust vents that should make it effective. There are some Things like that for the Photon S as well, but I haven't looked closely at them yet (it looks like it's trickier to duct the dual fans). There's no mention of the other two printers having any exhaust fans.

 

[Wallace]

Not sure where you guys are located or weather or not it'd work, but I'd happily give ya'll 5 or so gallons of Methanol (expired race fuel) that might help with the post processing/save some coinage..I'm in S.E. Wisconsin btw. I have "most" of a drum left that I've be using for parts cleaning. Doubt I'll live long enough to clean that many parts

 

[vcp]

Actually, I found this YT vid with a side-by-side comparison of cleaning materials:


He's comparing 99% IPA with several detergents in an ultrasonic cleaner. His conclusion is that the cheapest detergent - something called 'Mean Green' worked best (for him, on that particular resin). And, that one had the least smell of anything compared.

 

[Wallace]

Methanol is surprisingly scent/odor free. Though an absolute fire hazard and probably not something you'd want on your skin..From what I've seen and heard from a buddy that uses it, 99% IPA goes for roughly $30.00 a gallon. That's a pretty tough post processing pill to swallow. That and the fact that Alcohol is infinitely Hygrosopic, how well do the finished parts handle moisture?

 

[vcp]

In some countries, IPA is not readily available, and they use 'methylated spirits' (alcohol + methanol) for cleaning, so I suppose methanol would work pretty well.

... but that would be a ways to go, even for free methanol.

 

[Wallace]

Actually, I found this YT vid with a side-by-side comparison of cleaning materials:


He's comparing 99% IPA with several detergents in an ultrasonic cleaner. His conclusion is that the cheapest detergent - something called 'Mean Green' worked best (for him, on that particular resin). And, that one had the least smell of anything compared.

That was rather interesting. Don't know about you, but my ultrasonic cleaner has warning labels all over it specifically stating to NEVER use anything combustible as a solution in it. I know I'll never own a resin printer since it appears to be way too messy/costly overall, but that does not mean I'm not intrigued..

 

[BDB]

Actually, I found this YT vid with a side-by-side comparison of cleaning materials:


He's comparing 99% IPA with several detergents in an ultrasonic cleaner. His conclusion is that the cheapest detergent - something called 'Mean Green' worked best (for him, on that particular resin). And, that one had the least smell of anything compared.

Very interesting. I agree that IPA and MeOH don't do near as good of a job of cleaning as I would have thought. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, so I assumed that was the issue.

But it looks like I'm going to pick up a bottle of Mean Green today. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Wallace]

Very interesting. I agree that IPA and MeOH don't do near as good of a job of cleaning as I would have thought. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, so I assumed that was the issue.

But it looks like I'm going to pick up a bottle of Mean Green today. Thanks for sharing.

Do yourself a huge favor and grab a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. They truly work wonders.

 

[cwbullet]

Tempting, but I will stick with filament printers for now.