BSD .38 Special

[mjslive2fly]

I have a BSD .38 Special thats been kicking around for a few years. Now that the BATFE rules have been relaxed I'd like to become a BAR and move to HP.

Opinions on this kit for an L1 cert?

 

[dixontj93060]

Great kit for an L1 cert!

I have a BSD .38 Special thats been kicking around for a few years. Now that the BATFE rules have been relaxed I'd like to become a BAR and move to HP.

Opinions on this kit for an L1 cert?

 

[mjslive2fly]

Forgot to mention its still NIB so I have some work ahead of me this Winter.

 

[stickershock23]

That is a great first High power kit! keep us informed on the build!

 

[mjslive2fly]

I'm sure I will have lots of questions for the forum. I'm toying with the idea of setting it up for dual deployment but I have a lot to learn before trying this.

 

[stickershock23]

I'm sure I will have lots of questions for the forum. I'm toying with the idea of setting it up for dual deployment but I have a lot to learn before trying this.

DD is not necessary for your LI flight. I would suggest you keep it simple for that flight. BUT For future flights, I would build in a payload bay (electronics bay) now while you are building. that way it is an easy add for later. you can even throw some electronics in there. and test them during your first flights. most will at least tell you an altitude.

 

[mjslive2fly]

Can anyone point me toward some sources of build tips, including adding an electronics bay, etc.?

Thanks

 

[blackjack2564]

It would make a great L-1 AND L-2 kit.

I fly mine on J-350's no problem stock build. Goes 5-5500 ft on one.

By simply using the coupler as a av-bay and holding it in the payload section with plastic rivets you are good to go. You will have to buy 2sets of coupler bulkplates for each end of the av-bay. [converted coupler] Some eyebolts and threaded rod for the altimeter sled.

Use tubular nylon as shock cord and a 48- 60 chute for the main that will handle up to 6-9lbs weight. I fly drogueless but if need be a 15-18in. drogue should suffice. I prefer a streamer for tracking. [easier to see] 4in by 72in streamer. Topflite for both solves packing problems.

25ft of shockcord 9/16 on each end and start with 1.5 grams of bp for ejection charge. [ground test to dial in]

2 shear pins [2-256 nylon screws] in the nose. Railbuttons and 3 5/32 vent hole for a 6in coupler/av-bay. Your in.

Add 1 1/8 vent in fincan and another 1/8 vent in the payload.

Don't have any pics of mine as the rocket gods ate it last year after many years of service.

A single wrap or two of 6oz glass will go along way to keeping it from damage, but is not a necessity. Even then the fins don't need any, they are plenty strong as is. The glass will keep you from more travel damage than anything.

Just keep reading build threads on the forum and it will get you there. But I would write down the above information. It's proven and it works!

Here is a link to a complex build I did on another 3in rocket you can get lots of ideas from. Page 4 starts the av- bay, just downsize the rods if need be but the theory is the same. Good luck.

https://www.rocketryplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648

It's a long read but contains everything from building..... to rules of thumb for paint colors.... and how to paint and make your own decals and place them.

 

[bobkrech]

BSD builds fine HP rockets, however just be aware that any 3" rocket on an H is likely to find 2000', so plan for a long walk if the wind is up.

Here a review. https://www.rocketreviews.com/reviews/all/bsd_38_special.shtml

Blackjach gives good advice. The BSD airframe strong so it does not need glass for strength and neither do the plywood fins. If you decide to glass it to make it more durable in transport, that's fine, but don't go overboard and make it into a lead sled.

An alternative way to fiberglass is to use lightweight coaxial fiberglass sleeves from https://sollercomposites.com/ They even come in colors, so all you have to do is to put the sleeve around the airframe tube, snug it up, paint on the epoxy and squeeze it into the braid with nitrile gloved hands. Let it dry, and the paint on a second thin coating of epoxy and use a gloved finger to smooth it out and fill-in any surface defects. If you do this right, your finished surface will be as flat as glass and just as transparent and not need painting.

Bob

 

[Handeman]

As Stickershock said, you don't need dual deploy for your L1. But if you do want to use it, I say, don't shy away.

One of my goals with my scratch build L1 was to use DD. What I did was a lot of ground testing. I attached a tube to the av-bay and drew a vacuum (sucked on the tube) to simulate a flight. That allowed me to dial in the size of the charges along with using the altimeter. By the time I finished on the ground, I had no reservations about using DD on my cert flight. The result of that was since I was going to use DD, I got a Loki I110 moonburner with a 4+ second burn time. Got 4,200 ft on the cert flight and lots of ohs and ahs because of the long burn. Turned out really cool.

 

[Pantherjon]

The 38 Special is a great L1 bird! Can't wait until BSD gets rolling again so I can get another one!

 

[dlb]

Forget the glass, not even needed on a "J". It's a overkill and as Bob pointed out, just don't sit on it! :bangpan: Assemble as explained in the instruction and as Jim pointed out DD is easy to add.

She a Great flyer,even on a "G" ( expect 700+ ft on a G64 )

Jon: I hearing BSD may return as soon as late March, but may be a slimmer version, but still all the quality kits we all come to love and a few small surprizes.

 

[n5wd]

Great kit for an L1 cert!

The .38 Special is a great rocket for certifying. I did my L1 with a Cesaroni H143. Flew it a couple of times and zippered the body tube, so in the repair, I converted it to zipperless with a baffle in the top of the booster, extended the payload section and certified L2 on it with a Cesaroni J330. It's being modified again for dual-deploy, and is up to about 14 flights on it, now.

Wish I had another!

 

[Viperfixr]

Successful L1 cert on an H180 to 1352'

L1 cert landing

Here's a 38 Special on a CTI J410...

 

[mjslive2fly]

It would make a great L-1 AND L-2 kit.

I fly mine on J-350's no problem stock build. Goes 5-5500 ft on one.

By simply using the coupler as a av-bay and holding it in the payload section with plastic rivets you are good to go. You will have to buy 2sets of coupler bulkplates for each end of the av-bay. [converted coupler] Some eyebolts and threaded rod for the altimeter sled.

Use tubular nylon as shock cord and a 48- 60 chute for the main that will handle up to 6-9lbs weight. I fly drogueless but if need be a 15-18in. drogue should suffice. I prefer a streamer for tracking. [easier to see] 4in by 72in streamer. Topflite for both solves packing problems.

25ft of shockcord 9/16 on each end and start with 1.5 grams of bp for ejection charge. [ground test to dial in]

2 shear pins [2-256 nylon screws] in the nose. Railbuttons and 3 5/32 vent hole for a 6in coupler/av-bay. Your in.

Add 1 1/8 vent in fincan and another 1/8 vent in the payload.

Don't have any pics of mine as the rocket gods ate it last year after many years of service.

A single wrap or two of 6oz glass will go along way to keeping it from damage, but is not a necessity. Even then the fins don't need any, they are plenty strong as is. The glass will keep you from more travel damage than anything.

Just keep reading build threads on the forum and it will get you there. But I would write down the above information. It's proven and it works!

Here is a link to a complex build I did on another 3in rocket you can get lots of ideas from. Page 4 starts the av- bay, just downsize the rods if need be but the theory is the same. Good luck.

https://www.rocketryplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648

It's a long read but contains everything from building..... to rules of thumb for paint colors.... and how to paint and make your own decals and place them.

Sorry for reviving an ancient thread! Life intervened so I still have this kit NIB and would like to complete over the Winter. Is there a diagram somewhere of the described DD configuration using the coupler as an avbay? If the payload section will house the main chute why the 2-56 screws for the nose? Isn't the nose acting as a fixed bulkhead in this setup?

Thanks

 

[blackjack2564]

Well the link is now gone with that website. But to answer your question:

The NC fits into the payload, so the shear-pins keep it there until the main charge fires, then they shear off allowing the NC to move. 2-256 ARE nylon shear pins....meant to break when approximately 24 lbs of force are applied to them.

You have a great Kit for both L-1 & L-2 if you set up the coupler for dual deploy.

It's been along time...if you post pics of your parts, I can help walk you through the set up though.