DD is not necessary for your LI flight. I would suggest you keep it simple for that flight. BUT For future flights, I would build in a payload bay (electronics bay) now while you are building. that way it is an easy add for later. you can even throw some electronics in there. and test them during your first flights. most will at least tell you an altitude.I'm sure I will have lots of questions for the forum. I'm toying with the idea of setting it up for dual deployment but I have a lot to learn before trying this.
The .38 Special is a great rocket for certifying. I did my L1 with a Cesaroni H143. Flew it a couple of times and zippered the body tube, so in the repair, I converted it to zipperless with a baffle in the top of the booster, extended the payload section and certified L2 on it with a Cesaroni J330. It's being modified again for dual-deploy, and is up to about 14 flights on it, now.Great kit for an L1 cert!
Sorry for reviving an ancient thread! Life intervened so I still have this kit NIB and would like to complete over the Winter. Is there a diagram somewhere of the described DD configuration using the coupler as an avbay? If the payload section will house the main chute why the 2-56 screws for the nose? Isn't the nose acting as a fixed bulkhead in this setup?It would make a great L-1 AND L-2 kit.
I fly mine on J-350's no problem stock build. Goes 5-5500 ft on one.
By simply using the coupler as a av-bay and holding it in the payload section with plastic rivets you are good to go. You will have to buy 2sets of coupler bulkplates for each end of the av-bay. [converted coupler] Some eyebolts and threaded rod for the altimeter sled.
Use tubular nylon as shock cord and a 48- 60 chute for the main that will handle up to 6-9lbs weight. I fly drogueless but if need be a 15-18in. drogue should suffice. I prefer a streamer for tracking. [easier to see] 4in by 72in streamer. Topflite for both solves packing problems.
25ft of shockcord 9/16 on each end and start with 1.5 grams of bp for ejection charge. [ground test to dial in]
2 shear pins [2-256 nylon screws] in the nose. Railbuttons and 3 5/32 vent hole for a 6in coupler/av-bay. Your in.
Add 1 1/8 vent in fincan and another 1/8 vent in the payload.
Don't have any pics of mine as the rocket gods ate it last year after many years of service.
A single wrap or two of 6oz glass will go along way to keeping it from damage, but is not a necessity. Even then the fins don't need any, they are plenty strong as is. The glass will keep you from more travel damage than anything.
Just keep reading build threads on the forum and it will get you there. But I would write down the above information. It's proven and it works!
Here is a link to a complex build I did on another 3in rocket you can get lots of ideas from. Page 4 starts the av- bay, just downsize the rods if need be but the theory is the same. Good luck.
It's a long read but contains everything from building..... to rules of thumb for paint colors.... and how to paint and make your own decals and place them.