BOOM XB-1

[mbeels]

Recreating that in an image editor should be fun. If you'd like, I'll be happy to take a crack at it, but first I'd need the exact profile of the vertical stab. Doing waterslides isn't bad, although given those are all on black background makes it a little more exciting to be sure. With a bit of effort, they can produce excellent results.

Yeah, that'd be really helpful! I'm not much good at computer graphics. What is the best way to give you the exact profile? I measured along the edges of the vertical stab, which were the easiest dimensions to measure.

BTW, any particular laser water transfer paper you'd recommend? I see that you've used Sunnyscopia in the past.

 

[neil_w]

Yeah, that'd be really helpful! I'm not much good at computer graphics. What is the best way to give you the exact profile? I measured along the edges of the vertical stab, which were the easiest dimensions to measure.

BTW, any particular laser water transfer paper you'd recommend? I see that you've used Sunnyscopia in the past.

View attachment 432582

The Sunnyscopa laser paper has worked out fine for me. My problem I believe is the printer, and the inconsistent finish, as I've detailed in the past.

I'll take that diagram and see if I can come up with a decent facsimile of that logo. Should be fun.

 

[mbeels]

Clear decal paper would not work well on a black basecoat.

I've never printed water slide decals before, what happens with clear over black? Is it better to get white, and print it black? Or clear, and print that black? Or cut it out?

 

[kuririn]

I've never printed water slide decals before, what happens with clear over black? Is it better to get white, and print it black? Or clear, and print that black? Or cut it out?

Colors printed on clear decal paper are more translucent than on white, so some colors nearly disappear on a black basecoat.
Printing the colors on white decal paper instead and making the background black, then cutting around it will make the colors more opaque (but not completely).

 

[neil_w]

That was not too hard. I realized you'd be better of with a vector drawing of it, but I am not equipped for that.

It doesn't quite fit your fin in the exact same way that the real thing does; not sure why that is but hopefully the differences aren't important. I tried to size it exactly to your picture.

When the time comes I can provide the actual artwork.

 

[mbeels]

Alright! Thank you. So would you print this on white or clear decal paper? Decal the entire fin? Or carefully cutout the logo itself? I may have to do some experimenting. I wonder how well the printed black will match my painted black.

It doesn't quite fit your fin in the exact same way that the real thing does; not sure why that is but hopefully the differences aren't important. I tried to size it exactly to your picture.

I do know that I didn't allow for the 1/16" thick sheeting on top of the top inlet scoop, so the bottom of the fin line won't quite match, and likely my cutting/bending/sanding changed the fin profile slightly. But yeah, that won't matter.

 

[neil_w]

Alright! Thank you. So would you print this on white or clear decal paper?

If it's on a black paint background, you would presumably have to print it on white backround. If the stab is painted white, then you could in theory print the decal on clear, but you'd need to *completely* cover the fin.

I'd say black paint + decal printed on white.

Decal the entire fin?

Well, at minimum it's going to cover *most* of the fin. You could choose to cover the whole fin just to avoid (possibly) seeing the edge of the decal. Tough call.

Or carefully cutout the logo itself?

Ha ha, only if you take a video of the process including audio, so we can hear you swearing and/or crying.

I may have to do some experimenting. I wonder how well the printed black will match my painted black.

Not perfectly, in my experience with laser-decals. Inkjet black comes closer, but as recounted in another thread, I've had problems with the edges running, and since this decal needs to go right to the edge of the fin, I don't know how you'd address that.

The laser decals do look better (and darker) after clear coating. You don't need to coat them for water protection, but for appearance afterwards they could use it, especially when you print large black background.

Honestly, printed vinyl would look the best here, but I personally wouldn't pay for that just for a couple of small-ish pieces.

Oh, I'll also generate a small yellow version of the logo for you.

NOTE: I've been noticing a few annoying differences between my version of the logo and the real one. I can't yet figure out the reason, but I'll need to take a little time and see if I can figure it out so I can fix mine.

 

[neil_w]

This one is better. Not perfect, but better. Note toward the bottom in the middle there's no longer stray bits of the lightest stripe showing through behind the others.

I have to say it's a very cool design, kudos to the artist at Boom who came up with it.

 

[mbeels]

I'd say black paint + decal printed on white.

OK, good, I've already got the black paint on.

Ha ha, only if you take a video of the process including audio, so we can hear you swearing and/or crying.

I have to admit, this kinda makes me want to try it....

The laser decals do look better (and darker) after clear coating. You don't need to coat them for water protection, but for appearance afterwards they could use it, especially when you print large black background.

Also, good. I only have access to laser printers.

Honestly, printed vinyl would look the best here, but I personally wouldn't pay for that just for a couple of small-ish pieces.

Agreed. I've had Mark at Stickershock do printed vinyl for me before (PD II) and it looks fantastic, but I couldn't justify it for only one small piece. I guess Mark is back on his feet now, but I hadn't asked him for anything since the tragic loss of his wife.

This one is better. Not perfect, but better. Note toward the bottom in the middle there's no longer stray bits of the lightest stripe showing through behind the others.

Yes, thank you! Oh my, I thought you were going to clean up the image from Boom, but I see you re-created the image from scratch. I do like that design as well.

I will probably paint the yellow leading edge (so it matches the yellow elsewhere) and now I ought to order some decal paper.

Oh, I'll also generate a small yellow version of the logo for you.

Is the image file I posted good enough for that? It occurs to me I could download the press pack from their website, that might have some higher resolution files.

 

[neil_w]

Yes, thank you! Oh my, I thought you were going to clean up the image from Boom, but I see you re-created the image from scratch. I do like that design as well.

It was regular and geometric, which is the only reason I was able to do it.

Is the image file I posted good enough for that? It occurs to me I could download the press pack from their website, that might have some higher resolution files.

The little yellow one is just a shrunken version of the big one, no worries.

 

[mbeels]

On a related note, I think I found a decent font match, Objectivity Medium:

 

[mbeels]

@neil_w and @kuririn , I'm looking through the Sunnyscopa waterslide decal paper options, do I want "thick", "standard", or "thin"?

Paper specifications
Film thickness: Thick - 20µm (0.0008"), Standard - 13µm (0.0005"), Thin - 10µm (0.0004")
Paper thickness: 220 µm (0.009")
Paper weight: 170 gsm (Basis weight: 115lb)
Elasticity of the film - Very High

 

[neil_w]

I got the standard, which seemed like a reasonable default choice. Didn't have the luxury of trying all of them and comparing.

Edges are a little janky, I'll see if I can clean that up.

 

[kuririn]

Haven't tried that brand, I would imagine that thin might be less opaque than standard or thick.

 

[neil_w]

BTW, before I forget: don't expect to get a super-bright yellow like that from the laser printer. Temper your expectations there.

I was thinking more about cutting the logo. I now realize it's all straight lines and there are no difficult hole cutouts. It's doable. *But*, then I'd worry about maneuvering that decal into place; it'll be very delicate and spindly and bendy and have a mind of its own most likely. I wonder if that would justify the thicker decal paper, just for that. Hard to say.

If you're willing to risk ruining a decal or two, you could try it, and just rip it off if it's not working.

That's better:

 

[mbeels]

That's better:

That looks great, thank you very much!

If you're willing to risk ruining a decal or two, you could try it, and just rip it off if it's not working.

Yeah, several ought to fit on one sheet, so I can experiment.

I'll do the vertical stabilizer design on a water transfer, but I may ask Mark to cut out the little yellow one and do the text for me out of vinyl.

 

[kuririn]

Just a heads up, Mark can only go down in size so much before resolution becomes iffy.
I asked him once if he could downsize some military markings and he said it was too small.

 

[neil_w]

Yeah, that is pretty small stuff for cutting. Not impossible, necessarily, but iffy.

 

[mbeels]

Just a heads up, Mark can only go down in size so much before resolution becomes iffy.
I asked him once if he could downsize some military markings and he said it was too small.

Yeah, he did a really nice job with the PD II font which some small details in it, but I once asked for "Zensyrom" or "Lacy Font" and he said no way!

I think that the logo ends up at a doable size, but I'll see what he says.

 

[mbeels]

For the leading edge stripes: these are 1/4" wide, but I bet you could find 1/8" if you keep looking longer than I did.
View attachment 432532

Joe, this is a good idea, and I thought I might even have some in my basement. Tonight I started cleaning up, and lo-and-behold, I found some 3/16" wide. It might work.

 

[mbeels]

A little more progress on some details, I used a Rusto hammered metal paint to do the engine nozzles and trim around the top air scoop. I've never done quite as much masking as I have for this one.





I also installed the kevlar shock cord (which was a bit of a trick) and hooked up a really nice thin mill Spherachute. This is a plug for Julie at Spherachutes, they look great!

So now that assembly and painting is complete, I can get a dry weight: 9.0 oz. It should be ok on either a D13-4 or D24-4.



The last step will be the final art work which is in progress. These last details are the really fun part.

 

[mbeels]

While I'm at it and still awake, the underside of the tail (sticky-outy part??) gets some of that black anodized aluminum tape for protection from the motor exhaust. I expect the yellow on the sides of the tail will still get somewhat blackened or scorched, but at least the aluminum tape will bear the brunt of the worst of it.

That little 18/20 motor is so cute.

 

[neil_w]

Wow, nice cut job on that tape.

Is that yellow paint or tape? I know you said you had you had some yellow pinstriping tape, but the, uh, sticky-outy part doesn't seem conducive to that.

Also: did I miss where we discussed black-anodized aluminum tape? I don't think I've seen that before. Did you have that lying around?

 

[mbeels]

Is that yellow paint or tape? I know you said you had you had some yellow pinstriping tape, but the, uh, sticky-outy part doesn't seem conducive to that.

The sticky-outy part is paint, and the leading edge of the wing is yellow paint. Neither of those seemed conducive to tape, and I had a nice bright yellow paint to use (Krylon Gloss Sun Yellow).

I haven't done the leading edges of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers yet, I haven't decided yet if I'll do paint or tape for those. The tape I have is slightly duller than the yellow paint I used already. The tape would be definitely be easier, but I'm not sure if it will look right.

Also: did I miss where we discussed black-anodized aluminum tape? I don't think I've seen that before. Did you have that lying around?

I don't think I really mentioned it, so you didn't miss it. I did have it lying around for another project (increasing the emissivity of something). I don't recall where it came from, but it was probably McMaster Carr (did you know that they have nuclear grade duct tape?). I also ended up with some shiny copper tape.

These are the cutouts I did for the canopy:

 

[neil_w]

I haven't done the leading edges of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers yet, I haven't decided yet if I'll do paint or tape for those. The tape I have is slightly duller than the yellow paint I used already. The tape would be definitely be easier, but I'm not sure if it will look right.

Well... far be it from me to impose more work on you, but... that yellow paint looks *really* good.

Another thing you could try (although it can be tricky) is paint some decal paper with the yellow paint. When I tried this I had trouble getting it to wrap around curves, so getting it to wrap around leading edges of fins might be impractical. You could also try painting label paper, which could work if your leading edges are perfectly straight (the decal paper could much better conform to curves, although unclear how well it would do after being painted).

Final question: what process did you use to paint the yellow over the black?

 

[mbeels]

paint some decal paper with the yellow paint.

You could also try painting label paper,

Oh, now that's an interesting idea that I hadn't considered, and could solve several issues. One: masking, and two: covering up the black.

Final question: what process did you use to paint the yellow over the black?

I actually masked off the leading edge when I did the black, so they were left white. (pic #1 here) I then covered the leading edges of the wings with the flexible masking tape, and carefully cut it away along the paint edge between the black and white. There are a couple of spots where the white shows through, and few spots where the yellow overlaps the black. In hindsight, it would have been easier to paint the yellow before the black. But I didn't do that because I didn't want a paint ridge underneath the black where I masked off the yellow (to allow the backs of the wings to be white). Hard to explain in words.

So if I wanted to paint the leading edges of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers, I'd probably need to do a white base coat first to cover up the black. But painting decal or adhesive paper could solve that problem. I may have to experiment with that and give it a try. That has the potential to give me a color match, a nice paint edge, and cover the black. I like it.

 

[jqavins]

increasing the emissivity of something...

Oh, there has to be an interesting story behind that.

 

[mbeels]

Oh, there has to be an interesting story behind that.

It actually isn't that terribly interesting, but if you'd like more details, you can PM me.

I am SUPER impressed what Mark delivered from Stickershock23.com today. He managed to duplicate the whisker thin details of the logo, all cut out of vinyl. That yellow logo decal is only 3/8" tall. Awesome! Also, extra thanks to neil_w for generating the artwork used to create these.



I want to emphasize what a great deal Stickershock23 is. While Mark's shop was closed, I shopped around and ordered custom cut vinyl from another source. As soon as I heard he was open again, I ordered a set from his as well to compare. Mark's vinyl arrived in half the time, at 1/3 the price, is much better quality, came in a nicer shade of yellow, and he gave me twice as many as I asked for. So that is like more than a 12x better deal! Plus he is great to work with.

I decided to try the yellow pin stripe tape on the leading edge of the stab, it is a slightly paler shade of yellow, but not too terribly different. It might be ok. This lighting doesn't quite capture the subtle difference of hues.

 

[OverTheTop]

Sweet!

 

[neil_w]

Wow, I can't believe he was able to cut that logo piece... and it looks incredibly clean.

The tape looks good too. Maybe not worth hassling with the other approaches.

Can't wait to see the vertical stab and all the rest. The final reveal will be quite exciting.