Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty

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RocketSmokEater

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hi there everyone-

i was just using some Bondy Glazing/Spot Putty - the deep maroon creamy stuff in the orangish/red tube i bought for $1.99 at my local auto-parts store (there was also another white or green container that supposedly was heavier, don't remember) - and i must say this stuff is most excellent to use, cheaper than a lot of stuff i've found, and kind of fun too! (thanks to Stymye for his suggestion of it!) i'm using it to seal the spirals of my LOC 2.56" BT of my Estes 29mm HJ conversion kit. it's easy to sand, but still tiring going around the entire BT getting it all off and smoothed. i'm using #320 grit sandpaper dry sanded. oh, regarding sanding, when does one do wet-sanding vs. dry-sanding...difference?

my question is, what else can you use this stuff for? and with what materials...plastic, metal, glass (it doesn't say on the container)? give me some examples please!

thanks,
>RSE
 
I bought a can of Red Devil light weight spakling a while back.
I have used it on a bashed Bertha-Deuce to fill the grooves,and where the motor tubes come through th body.
It works great...
I did wait over night to prime, per the instructions, and it finishes up slick with no shrinkage.
 
I used this stuff for the first time on my 3" Thor and all I can say is WOW. I used it to fill in ans smooth out the transition between the fins and body over the fillets. After putting on paint it looks almost like its one piece. Ill use this from now on.

Dan

View attachment IMG_3368 (Large).JPG
 
I like bondo for filling but it definitely needs to be used out doors (at least at my house).
 
I use micro-lite bondo for finishing around my fillets and also for low spots on fiberglass tubes. After I primer everything with 2 coats I use some spot putty to fix any spots that need tending too. I then sand everything smooth and apply one final coat of primer sand with 320 followed by 600 paper, then it is ready for the top coat. Doing this process has given me finishes like this.

bluemoon1.jpg
 
I use it for those tiny imperfections on fiberglass nose cones.

You know the tiny pits, deep marks from sanding and the dips and craters you never see until you spray a coat of primer on it.
 
Anyone tried using it on plastic nose cones? I just started building a Big Daddy that has quite a pit in the nose, and needs more than primer to fill it.
 
Anyone tried using it on plastic nose cones? I just started building a Big Daddy that has quite a pit in the nose, and needs more than primer to fill it.

Yes I have. Sand you nose cone and primer it, then put your spot putty on and sand after putty dries. Primer again and prep for top coat. Remember spot putty works on primer not plastic or metal.
 
I have used spot glazing putty for many years. it goes on easy, is easy to work with, and makes for a nice finished end product.

A close second is that Superfil from Aerospruce; kinda expensive, but has better structural qualities for filling and working out the fillets etc.

Johnnie
 
I'm pretty sure the red one-part Bondo is the same stuff once marketed by Testor's as Model Master red putty, but way more expensive. I ran out of the latter and a net search for a replacement led me to the Bondo ... it seems Testor's has been discontinued. Probably because word got out it's the same as Bondo but way more expensive. :)

product_image_8461_large.jpg

tesr6512.jpg
 
Yes I have. Sand you nose cone and primer it, then put your spot putty on and sand after putty dries. Primer again and prep for top coat. Remember spot putty works on primer not plastic or metal.

Thanks Scott. What brand(s) of primer have you used with it?
 
Yes I have. Sand you nose cone and primer it, then put your spot putty on and sand after putty dries. Primer again and prep for top coat. Remember spot putty works on primer not plastic or metal.

Whoops?:cry:...I used this stuff to fill in a well sanded and cleaned 4" PML nose cone but I DID NOT prime it first. Am I in for some trouble here? If so, how would I un-monkey it?.

Scott
 
Whoops?...I used this stuff to fill in a well sanded and cleaned 4" PML nose cone but I DID NOT prime it first. Am I in for some trouble here? If so, how would I un-monkey it?.

Scott


It will probably flake off quite easily...I know the first time I sis this, the putty sanded richt off the nose, even out of the grooves.

Like mentioned before, priming first is best, but if you are not having a problem, I see no need to fix what ain't broke.

Johnnie
 
It will probably flake off quite easily...I know the first time I sis this, the putty sanded richt off the nose, even out of the grooves.

Like mentioned before, priming first is best, but if you are not having a problem, I see no need to fix what ain't broke.

Johnnie

Thanx Johnnie,

I was just getting ready to spray on a light coat of primer and see how much more I had to fill in. (NC has a lot swirly twirly blow-by artifacts from the molding process)

I think I'll try to sand into it a little more aggresivly what I've already bondoed and then primer.

Whatcha think about bondo over fin fillets? That BSD Thor looks like a million bucks. Thought about doing the same but am concerned about cracking do to flight stress or temp issues with 4 different materials QT/Epoxy/G10 Fin/then bondo on top of it.

Scott
 
Thanx Johnnie,

I was just getting ready to spray on a light coat of primer and see how much more I had to fill in. (NC has a lot swirly twirly blow-by artifacts from the molding process)

I think I'll try to sand into it a little more aggresivly what I've already bondoed and then primer.

Whatcha think about bondo over fin fillets? That BSD Thor looks like a million bucks. Thought about doing the same but am concerned about cracking do to flight stress or temp issues with 4 different materials QT/Epoxy/G10 Fin/then bondo on top of it.

Scott

Scott, I use micro-lite bondo over all my fin fillets and have not had any problems with cracks. The key is to keep it as thin as possiable so make sure your fillets are sand as close to being perfect and use the bondo to just fill in those low spots.

As far as spot putty on bare plastic it may stay and it may not. More than likely it will not stay.
 
Thanx, I'll to get as much spot putty off that I can. Who sells Micro-Lite?

Scott
 
Thanx, I'll to get as much spot putty off that I can. Who sells Micro-Lite?

Scott

Any auto parts/paint store carries it. You can use any bondo filler I just use the micro-lite because it is lighter in weight and also spreads very smooth.
 
Thanx Again,

Not to get off topic, but are those white spots south of the Blue Moon decal rivets securing an Alt-bay/coupler?
 
Thanx Again,

Not to get off topic, but are those white spots south of the Blue Moon decal rivets securing an Alt-bay/coupler?

They are 6/32 screws securing the tubes to the e-bay, if you look close you will see them on the other one too.
 
I used to use it for about 10years. The + side =cheap and dries fairly quick. The down side is it shrinks and cracks off easily. Last couple years ive used aeropoxy a little more expensive and slower drying time. But it feathers out good and I havent had a problem with it cracking off. My 25 lb. competetor 5 came down from 12000 ft. on a 2ft. drouge and took a hard landing not a scratch in the fillets.
 
yes the thinner, the better with spot putty,
it's a really good filler but leave it a little too thick and it will crack very easy.

it's not so great for stress areas like fillets , best for filling in high spots.
 
How well does the micro-lite Bondo work on gel coats like Polecat Aerospace nose cones?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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