BLUE BRUISER - SKY PIRATE V3.0

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To keep the t-nuts from getting loose (the prongs failed to penetrate the blue tube) I added some Aeropoxy around each one.

These babies aren’t going anywhere!

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Time for some a Stickershock vinyl!!

Last time I had applied the red band before drilling the holes for the #10 screws. It was a little trickier getting the vinyl to lay down flat this time due to the raised edges the drill left. Made a mental note to apply vinyl before drilling on future builds....

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And of course it wouldn’t be a Sky Pirate without the skull & crossbones!

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Here is a quick test stack. Still need to wet sand and second coat the fins and nose cone. Not happening today, had the second Pfizer shot Thursday and I feel like garbage.

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Meanwhile, my original LOC Bruiser Sky Pirate I used for my L2 cert back in 2012 is staring at me from the rocket storage area. This bird has a LOT of flights under its belt. It’s also about 6 inches shorter due to a rough landing due after a weak ejection charge only knocked off the nose cone but didn’t deploy the chute. It has a few wraps of 6.5 oz fiberglass on it and held up well to the impact. The normal nose cone for it is black and is on another rocket for some reason.

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Today I shot the second and final coat of paint on the nose cone.
It got a thorough wet sanding first with 600 grit sandpaper, then a good wipe down with denatured alcohol to finish prepping the surface.
As always, wear your PPE when painting!! Paint is very toxic and bad for your lungs.

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I can’t say it’s my best paint job ever, but doesn’t have any major flaws.
 
Next up was the fin section. After wet sanding with 600 grit and wiping down with denatured alcohol, i bagged the white areas so they don’t get covered in overspray.
Had some crinkly spots on one fin, I’m just gonna deal with it. I went through hell trying to get the switch band fixed.... I’m afraid it would just be a vicious circle.

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I’ll let the paint cure overnight (probably longer) before adding the rest of the vinyl.
Once the vinyl is on, I only have to drill the holes for the shear pins and install the recovery gear.
Needless to say, I think she will be ready for launch late next month.

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I recently finally got around to uploading the flight of the Sky Pirate Version 2 (RIP) as it majestically flew into the swamp back in 2018. As you can see, all events were spot on as it sought out the highest tree possible. Who the heck decided to put a swamp there?????? Lol.....

 
I recently finally got around to uploading the flight of the Sky Pirate Version 2 (RIP) as it majestically flew into the swamp back in 2018. As you can see, all events were spot on as it sought out the highest tree possible. Who the heck decided to put a swamp there?????? Lol.....


Sorry for your loss. Do you remember what altitude it simmed at on that motor? Just curious.
 
I recently finally got around to uploading the flight of the Sky Pirate Version 2 (RIP) as it majestically flew into the swamp back in 2018. As you can see, all events were spot on as it sought out the highest tree possible. Who the heck decided to put a swamp there?????? Lol.....


What motor was it?
 
Sorry for your loss. Do you remember what altitude it simmed at on that motor? Just curious.

It should have been about 6k but it went down range at an angle instead of up. The two rail sections in the pad were pretty loose...I think it had some rail whip.
 
Shear pins installed. Electric matches installed. Paint waxed. Countdown to launch!
 

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I have build 3 kits useing BT. But what us your opinion if a guy went the route of useing full length couplers? I now BT is much stronger but just looking for away to beef up a standard LOC kit.
 
I have build 3 kits useing BT. But what us your opinion if a guy went the route of useing full length couplers? I now BT is much stronger but just looking for away to beef up a standard LOC kit.

It all depends on the application. This was the first BT build I didn’t fiberglass. Normally I’m doing one wrap of 6 oz S-glass and one wrap of 3 oz fiberglass - the 3 oz has a much nicer weave allows you to get a smooth finished surface. I feel the fiberglass adds enough additional strength that it is worth the trade off in weight penalty.
Adding full length couplers would be a HUGE weight penalty, so unless your hitting high Mach numbers.... I personally wouldn’t use it. Because of our smaller Florida fields and nearby swamps and trees, I’m not able to get crazy with ultra high altitudes and/or speeds so I’ve never shredded a rocket. I’m usually using “K” motors, and throw on some “L’s” when the weather is just right.
 
It all depends on the application. This was the first BT build I didn’t fiberglass. Normally I’m doing one wrap of 6 oz S-glass and one wrap of 3 oz fiberglass - the 3 oz has a much nicer weave allows you to get a smooth finished surface. I feel the fiberglass adds enough additional strength that it is worth the trade off in weight penalty.
Adding full length couplers would be a HUGE weight penalty, so unless your hitting high Mach numbers.... I personally wouldn’t use it. Because of our smaller Florida fields and nearby swamps and trees, I’m not able to get crazy with ultra high altitudes and/or speeds so I’ve never shredded a rocket. I’m usually using “K” motors, and throw on some “L’s” when the weather is just right.
Thanks
I was thinking the couplers for a stock LOC Bruiser non BT
 
I would still go the fiberglass route. Plus doing a tip to tip glass on the fins will really keep help keep it from returning to kit form.
Thanks for info. The way I do my T-Nuts is I drill my holes in the tube then I pound the points on the nut over some. I install nut with screws points up away from the tube. I put expoy around the nuts with screw holding nut tight. Don't get epoxy on screw threads. I have never had one come loose on paper or glass tubes. Things are lined up perfect when glue dries.
 
Update - Had a great flight on the 29th at the SLUGR2 launch down in Port St. Lucie. Happy to report, I was able to successfully recover it this time!! Version 3 was the charm.
I used an Aerotech L1150R, which powered it up to 5166’ and exceeded the OpenRocket sim by ~200’. Guess that wax job made it nice and slippery.
I’ll be adding some nose weight, stability at launch was 1.18 cal and despite angling the pad into the wind it immediately flew with the wind and made a long walk (and drive) for recovery. The Whistle GPS tracker worked perfectly and took me right to it.
Thank you to everyone that followed this build thread from start to finish! It was a lot of fun building a new rocket after a few years out of the hobby.
Next project will be a blue tube clone of the Horizon clone I used for my L3 build. It’s getting kinda ratty after so many launches.
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You did a great job on this project.fun to see your build. The only question are the bulk plates on avbay coupler stepped cut?
 
Great photos. Did you get much scorching of the rear CR from the Redline motor?
I was surprised how little scorching there was. The rear centering ring is still almost flawless, the rear edge of the fins near the centering rings got a small amount of heat crinkling.
 
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