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BLUE BRUISER - SKY PIRATE V3.0

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neond7

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After taking off a few years from the hobby, I'm jumping back in! The project I'm starting is a rebuild of my Sky Pirate Ver 2.0 which was fully documented here:

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/blue-bruiser-build.135244/

My Sky Pirate V2.0 in the build thread above was unfortunately lost on its first flight at the Tampa TRA field in February of 2018. I imagine its still hanging up in the tall cypress in the swamp.

Flight video here: http://www.nefar.net/Gallery/2018-02-TTRA/Sky-Pirate-2-L850-Jeff-Millner-NTSC.wmv

Shortly after losing the rocket, I had ordered replacement parts which I had placed in storage. The main difference this time is I won't be fiber glassing the blue tubes as I'll be trying an oil based sanding sealer.

I'll try and work quickly as the club is renting the Port St. Lucie fairgrounds for a launch event in May and I want to fly it there on an Aeortech L900DM.

So here we go with a quick pic of the parts. Hope you enjoy the build!!

Sky Pirate V3.jpg
 

neond7

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Right off the bat I want to give Mark from StickerShock a huge shout out -
I emailed him this morning to see if he had the original SkyPirate art files and he did! He will bump the Sky Pirate version number to 3.0 and this rocket will be dressed to kill. 😎

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neond7

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One huge difference with this build - I won’t be glassing the body tubes (just tip to tip on the fins).
Today I used Bondo spot putty to fill the seams on the upper section and after sanding smooth, I’ll use an oil based sanding sealer. I’m currently testing the sealer on some scrap tube and it seems to be working well.
I welcome any comments on experience people have had with this sealer as I’m deviating from my normal formula (build heavy, glass everything).
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neond7

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I did a test fit of the fins, as you can see, it’s using the LOC n Fin tabs used on the original Bruiser (I actually bought the fins from LOC).
After some filing and sanding, everything fit nicely.
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neond7

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The part I really hate is installing flange mounts, so many ways things can go wrong. So many holes to drill, so many inserts to screw in, and hopefully it all lines up.
Thankfully the installation went fairly smoothly.
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neond7

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After triple checking alignment was good on everything, it was time to epoxy that baby together.
As always, my “go-to” blend is two squirts each of West epoxy and slow hardener and two spoons each of high density filler and colloidal silica. Mix until smooth and thick like peanut and I made a ridiculously fat fillet to permanently affix the 75mm MMT to the front of the rear centering ring.
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neond7

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Last step of the day was to make the backing blocks with brass inserts for the rail buttons to screw into. I will further sand these down so they are smaller, and the fronts will be shaped to match the curved radius of the tube.
C29F4993-9832-440F-B388-434036B817CB.jpeg
 

crossfire

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After triple checking alignment was good on everything, it was time to epoxy that baby together.
As always, my “go-to” blend is two squirts each of West epoxy and slow hardener and two spoons each of high density filler and colloidal silica. Mix until smooth and thick like peanut and I made a ridiculously fat fillet to permanently affix the 75mm MMT to the front of the rear centering ring. View attachment 450843View attachment 450844View attachment 450845
I have never used the inserts. I just place motor case in retainer slid it in MMT and use wood screws with expoy. Never an issue. Before it's going to pull out screws the CR will let go
 

crossfire

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I would like to find one maybe LOC would build me one with that attachment. Looking to build a very light Mini Magg
 

neond7

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Do they not use that method anymore?? With good fillets and tip to tip fiberglass, they have proven to be extremely strong on my other birds.
 

crossfire

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Do they not use that method anymore?? With good fillets and tip to tip fiberglass, they have proven to be extremely strong on my other birds.
I have one built many years ago with old method and has flew on J reloads with no problems.
 

Tim51

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I have never used the inserts. I just place motor case in retainer slid it in MMT and use wood screws with expoy. Never an issue. Before it's going to pull out screws the CR will let go
I find rivet nuts are alot easier to align than the inserts:
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Rough up the surface a bit with a file and secure with JB Weld. The silver colour is high temp paint.

Do they not use that method anymore??
My understanding is Loc 3.0 have dispensed with the Loc 'n' Fin system and gone with conventional tabs.
 

neond7

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I have one built many years ago with old method and has flew on J reloads with no problems.
I have a LOC Doorknob using LOC Fin tabs that I’ve flown multiple times on “L” impulse motors. Once the fins are glassed, they are fairly indestructible. The Sky Pirate I lost was flown on a 75mm “L” and if the swamp hadn’t eaten it, the next flight would have been an M1500G.
 

neond7

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I find rivet nuts are alot easier to align than the inserts:View attachment 450965View attachment 450966
Rough up the surface a bit with a file and secure with JB Weld. The silver colour is high temp paint.



My understanding is Loc 3.0 have dispensed with the Loc 'n' Fin system and gone with conventional tabs.
I assume on the larger 7.5” rockets, the long fin roots add a lot of weight?
 

Tim51

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I assume on the larger 7.5” rockets, the long fin roots add a lot of weight?
I also assume so (I haven't built one). Loc 3.0 seem to have incorporated their Removable Nose Weight System into most of their stubby rockets to off-set the increases in tail weight.
 

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