Binder Design Raptor (Evolution) Build

K'Tesh

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As compensation for house/dog sitting, I got a Binder Design Raptor and Velociraptor. I had hoped to have one or both ready for the OROC club launch this weekend, but due to the theft of my wallet (and the subsequent loss of my debt cards), I haven't had the time needed nor a way of paying for the parts needed to finish these.

The Raptor has some updates from the original design, and/or clones seen on RocketReviews.com. The current version now has Rail Buttons, 4 centering rings, and the fins are now 1/4" thick (they apparently were 1/8" thick originally). Other than that, it hasn't been updated.

Having the Velociraptor and the Raptor, I've decided to update the kit to be more like it's bigger sibling. The Velociraptor is made up of four major sections: the nosecone, a payload bay, a recovery bay, and the fin can (with baffle). The Raptor only had three sections: the nosecone, a payload bay, and the fin can (w/o a baffle, and includes the recovery bay). Mine will have the four sections including the baffle.

Using the Raptor/Cobra.rkt file and the Velocirapor's .rkt file found on RocketReviews.com, I've modified it to show how mine will be made up. This isn't quite up to my usual hyper-accurate standards (no blunting on the nosecone, haven't checked the Main/Aft fins vs the actual fins, etc) but just gives you an idea of what I'm planning on doing.



I used one of the VRaptor's baffle bulkheads to create two copies out of 3/16" thick birch ply. The originals were 1/4" thick, I'll use one of the originals and one of the copies with each rocket, and since the copies are not going to change from rocket to rocket as the baffle's plans suggest is possible, I don't think they need them to be capable of taking the stresses of recovery and I'll save the weight by not installing the eye bolt. I'll protect the underside of each bulkhead with a coating of JB Weld.

Using a damaged 4" body tube from a MDRM, I've made a new tube coupler to allow the 34" payload section of the Raptor to be split into two 17" sections, one for the recovery bay, and the other for the payload bay. I may opt to do a dual deploy modification later, so I'm planning on adding linking bolts (those 4 grey dots on the image above) to allow the section to be split and the AV bay to be inserted between them. The prototype Velociraptor has a similar design, but uses fewer bolts.

I had thought about bolting the VRaptor and Raptor's baffles to their fin can, but in an email exchange with Mike, I learned that this may compromise the strength of the body tube if the parachute deploys when the rocket is past apogee. So, I'm planning on epoxy them in. As I'm trying to reproduce much of the look of the prototype Velociraptor, I'll keep the bolts as a cosmetic homage. I've observed that the prototype used Phillips headed bolts, but I've decided that mine will be Allen headed ones. The Raptor will not have those bolts.

My major holdups on the assembly of the Raptor is figuring out how to bevel the edges of the fins, and the shape of the strakes (I may modify them to include fin tabs, and a point much like the RR.com .rkt file, then again, I might not), being able to order the retainer (and possibly an AV bay), and having the time/space needed to work on this.

I'm open to suggestions on how to bevel the fins. I don't have access to power tools except for a Dremmel. I intend on beveling the fins for aesthetic reasons, and I don't really care how it will change the performance of the rocket in <mach flight.

I'll pick this up after the OROC launch on Saturday. Until then, I'm working on OFFl and the Cherokee D to see if I can get my L1 before I (Lord Willing) go to China.

Pointy Side Up!
Jim

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(first draft).ork
 
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bclark989

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Jim,

Looks like a cool project. I really like these Binder rockets. I am sure I'll end up with one (or some) eventually, being that a) they're local and b) they're awesome.

On beveling, this thread is a dremel jig for just that purpose:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...evel-jig-specifically-for-LPR-amp-smaller-MPR

He seems to have had quite a bit of success. I haven't tried it, I usually just sand them to pretty blunt bevels. I too am not usually worried as much about performance as I probably could/should be. If you try this guys method, let me know how it goes.

See you this weekend!

Brian C.
 

AlfaBrewer

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I picked up a Cobra kit recently from someone who left the hobby, so I'll be watching this thread for ideas to incorporate when I build mine.

Also, for beveling the fins, try having the sandpaper on your work table with a shim (paint stirrer or similar) and a stop setup to give the bevel you want.

Check out Jim's setup in post #8 of this thread:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...th-quot-Crazy-Jim-quot-seal-of-approval-build!
 
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dixontj93060

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Evolution... Kinda like moving out of Jurassic Park and into Jurassic World (dinosaur names included)...
 

Binder Design

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Beveling old school, get some 40 or 60 grit sheets, some spray adhesive. Use the spray adhesive to glue the paper to your workbench. Then just hold the fins at a consistent angle and work them back and forth checking frequently to make sure you are not going crooked. That's the way I used to do it before I got a belt sander. It actually worked better, but took longer. That's how the prototype Velociraptor fins were beveled. All by hand except for the carved talons which were done with a dremel.
 

K'Tesh

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Beveling old school, get some 40 or 60 grit sheets, some spray adhesive. Use the spray adhesive to glue the paper to your workbench. Then just hold the fins at a consistent angle and work them back and forth checking frequently to make sure you are not going crooked. That's the way I used to do it before I got a belt sander. It actually worked better, but took longer. That's how the prototype Velociraptor fins were beveled. All by hand except for the carved talons which were done with a dremel.

Thanks Mike!

Thanks for getting me those parts yesterday too!

Best!
Jim
 

K'Tesh

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Ok... Back to this...

One of the modifications I've thought about doing to the Raptor is to change up the strake fins. Personally, I like TTW fins as they are kind of hard to accidentally induce a roll or move out of position while the glue sets. Besides, the Velociraptor's talon fins have fin tabs. Since I'm going to modify the fins anyway, I thought about some shape changes.

So, first is the original strake fins:



Next is a strake fin scaled down from the main fins:




Then there's a strake fin that is based on the scaled down fin, but adds another bend to it:



Next has a strake fin that has a crank in it:



And finally, a stubbier version of the cranked fin:



So, what do you all think? Oh, and that little bump on the underside? A Cineroc's fairing for the onboard digital camera.

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(Bent Fin).ork

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(Second Draft).ork

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(Scaled Fin).ork

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(Cranked Fin).ork

View attachment Binder Design Raptor (Evolution)(Cranked Fin II).ork
 
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K'Tesh

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OK, worked on one of the major modifications of the Evolution... Adding in the Velociraptor's Baffle.

The baffle features a multiple tubes to force the ejection gasses into changing direction before venting out the top. This ensures that the parachute or drogue is deployed without any damage due to hot gasses and flaming particles.




I coated the underside of the baffle plates with JB Weld Steel Epoxy to prevent heat damage to them (epoxied the plates in with BSI 30 Minute Epoxy). I wouldn't have covered the top of the top baffle plate with JB Weld, except that I changed my mind and decided to install it in both the Velociraptor and the Raptor after covering it. I paid special attention to completely cover the underside of the hardware with epoxy to lock it in place, and also to protect it from any corrosive damage from ejection charge residues.

This assembly will be epoxied into the Raptor, unlike the instructions suggestion to use well nuts and screws as I was told that damage has occurred with some Velociraptors when deployed beyond apogee.
 

Binder Design

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If you thin the JB Weld with isopropyl alcohol and hit it with a heat gun you can flow it on thin and it cures with a perfectly glass like finish. It keeps the weight down and any residue wipes off clean. And it looks amazing especially if you add some lampblack to it. Like a black mirror.
 

K'Tesh

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Hi Mike,

Thanks for that tip...

I don't have a heat gun, but I did try it on a non-load-bearing joint, and I and can see how the alcohol really did a nice job of allowing the JB Weld to flow better.

All The Best!
Jim
 

Binder Design

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Yeah, for cosmetic heat protection it works great. I wouldn't thin the JB Weld for anything structural. If you flow some on to your aft centering ring after the rocket is built it works really well.
 

K'Tesh

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Yeah, for cosmetic heat protection it works great. I wouldn't thin the JB Weld for anything structural. If you flow some on to your aft centering ring after the rocket is built it works really well.

Aft Centering ring? I did it on the forward cap of the baffle (after it was expoxed in place and allowed to fully cure). The CR will be hidden once the baffle is glued in... That said, it could add some heat protection to the CR, but the body tube would be the weak link.

BTW, Sharpie pens' ink is alcohol soluble. So any ID marks made with them will be dissolved by the mixture, and make for some odd looking (flat black, "sooty") epoxy even if you only meant to cover it up completely. Any guesses on how I found this out? I wonder if powdered RIT dye would work in place of the lamp black?
 
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Binder Design

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Aft Centering ring? I did it on the forward cap of the baffle. The CR will be hidden once the baffle is glued in...

Yes, aft centering ring on the Raptor. You know the one near the end of the motor where the fire comes out, lol. Coating it gives it heat protection and makes it easier to clean the soot off.
 

K'Tesh

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Yes, aft centering ring on the Raptor. You know the one near the end of the motor where the fire comes out, lol. Coating it gives it heat protection and makes it easier to clean the soot off.

Ah... Mine is getting a baffle back there. So, it won't be possible to clean it, but I'll go ahead and do it (less lampblack/RIT) for the increased fire resistance.
 

samb

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Ah... Mine is getting a baffle back there. So, it won't be possible to clean it, but I'll go ahead and do it (less lampblack/RIT) for the increased fire resistance.

Maybe I'm confused (or "aft" means something different when translated to the Klingon). When Mike refers to the aft centering ring, "... the one near the end of the motor where the fire comes out... ", he's talking about the exterior surface of this part:

aft end.jpg
 

K'Tesh

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Maybe I'm confused (or "aft" means something different when translated to the Klingon). When Mike refers to the aft centering ring, "... the one near the end of the motor where the fire comes out... ", he's talking about the exterior surface of this part:

View attachment 273479


D'OH!

I should really not post to TRF when I'm only on 4 hours of sleep.
 

Binder Design

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he's talking about the exterior surface of this part:

View attachment 273479

Yup, thanks samb. The ring near the hot firey stuff, lol. JB Weld coating is good there. "Aft centering ring" aka "back" or "rear".

The one K'Tesh is referencing would be referred to as the "fore centering ring" or "forward" or "front". No need for extra protection there. Or weight. I use Titebond II for bonding wood and paper to save weight. I only use epoxy with milled fiber for fillets and other structural applications, but many times I'll do the whole build with wood glue.
 
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K'Tesh

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Status update: Nothing to report. Due to my pending move to Mainland China (likely now before Thanksgiving), I've had to seriously begin packing. Unfortunately, one of the first things to go into a box was the Raptor and the Velociraptor (for their own protection). I'm wrapping up the packing, and may be able to work on them again before I go.

Oh, and if you're in the PDX area, those annoying little white bugs that have likely put all painting on hold are called the Ash Whitefly. It's an invasive species, and is a prey item for lady bugs, and tiny parasitic wasps.
 

K'Tesh

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I'm leaning towards the Cranked Fin II (stubby fin) version. Thanks again to Mike Fisher for the font info so I could update this rendering.



Besides adding the decal, I also applied a realistic blunting of the nosecone. Just a guess, rather than measuring, but it looks about right.
Problem is, much of my stuff is packed, so building is kinda out of the question at this time :sad:. Oh, and looks like I'll have Thanksgiving here, but it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas (will be in China).
 
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Binder Design

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Raptor re-release in 2016: 75mm MMT, full decal set, pre-slotted tubing, CNC'ed parts. Might as well bring it back, my competitors are selling a lot of clones based off of it.
 

K'Tesh

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Congrats to Mike on the Re-Release of the Raptor!


Here's a concept for a L3 version of the Raptor... I call it...



10.58 feet long, 6" OD, 98mm Motor, Binder Design Baffle system, and a Dual Deploy based on the Velociraptor. Problem is, if Tawainluthier is correct, launching it in Taiwan would likely start a war with China... Perhaps I can build it, then take it to Australia to get my L3. Mind you, at this time it's just a preliminary concept, and I need to learn a lot more about HPR construction before I attempt anything that is designed to go anywhere near that altitude and speed.

I'll likely pick up a the Raptor 2nd Gen. later, but I think I'm too far along with this build to make the changes needed to convert the Evolution to a 2nd Gen. Besides, I still need to get to China, I've already got a lot of builds on my plate, and I need to make some $$$ before I can even think to try.
 
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rharshberger

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Why a baffle in a rocket with a 98mm MMT, 98mm motors are plugged motors? The MegaRaptor would be a beauty for a L3 rocket.
 

K'Tesh

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Why a baffle in a rocket with a 98mm MMT, 98mm motors are plugged motors? The MegaRaptor would be a beauty for a L3 rocket.

'Cause I don't know jack about 98mm motors, and didn't know that they were plugged. OK... Scratch the baffle.

[EDIT] Wait... if I were to use an adapter to bring it down to a 54mm motor (or even a 75mm motor? (are they plugged?)) a baffle would be a good idea. Ok... it's back in.
 
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