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Best tool for cleaning inside of long tube?

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billdz

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I have an older, long fiberglass 38mm tube that has much soot inside and a motor can't slide in easily. I've tried a bottle brush and taping sandpaper to the end of a dowel. Any suggestions for a better tool?
 

ksaves2

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You said fiberglass so how about a long brush with soap and water unless the motor mount tube is cardboard? Kurt
 

dr wogz

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Take a good sized dowel, and wrap the end in foam, an old sponge.. Glue it as best you can to the dowel. Make it slightly larger than the 38mm. Glue a piece of sandpaper to this foam you only need cover half the foam. You should have a stick with a foam top, and some sandpaper on it. As you insert it into the tube, the oversized diameter of the foam & paper should compress the foam & sandpaper against the inside of eth tube. a lot of up & down strokes while turning it should help sand / clean the inside of the tube.
 

NateLowrie

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You said fiberglass so how about a long brush with soap and water unless the motor mount tube is cardboard? Kurt
Soap and water works, but it tends to make a mess. You do need a cleaning agent and some water to clean it up. I suggest trying the pre-soaked chlorox wipes taped to a dowel. I use them to clean up motor cases and the soot on fiberglass tubes. Works great and even the heaviest stuff just wipes off.
 

Igotnothing

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I clean long motor cases with a drier vent dust brush. It has threaded fiberglass sections to reach 9 feet - which happens to be slightly* longer than any motor case I have at the moment. I chuck it up in a drill and spin it to scrub the inside of the cases. It has plastic bristles, so it doesn't harm the case.

Ace Hardware. *Slightly exaggerating.
 

ksaves2

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Soap and water works, but it tends to make a mess. You do need a cleaning agent and some water to clean it up. I suggest trying the pre-soaked chlorox wipes taped to a dowel. I use them to clean up motor cases and the soot on fiberglass tubes. Works great and even the heaviest stuff just wipes off.
You're correct but have to have the time to let it dry or wipe it out by stuffing paper towels down it. Had a CATO with a 29mm motor seared through a forward closure and burned a hole in the side of a motor deploy rocket. Was going to trash it but the flame jet went 180 degrees from the kevlar cord and I thought, "What the hay?" The rocket was very dirty on the inside but was structurally sound otherwise. I used a hose, brush and dishwashing liquid to get the bulk of the detritus out and was able to epoxy and slide a coupler down to close the hole. Rocket flies and doesn't know the difference. Kurt
 

sharkbait

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Long 1/4" all-thread rod, run a 1/4" nut down about an inch on it, slip on a 1/4" fender washer, get two or three Scotch-Brite pads (green, Blue, or purple = different coarseness) poke a 1/4" hole in the pads and slide them on the rod, slip a 1/4" fender washer on top of the pads, run a 1/4" nut down and tighten. Chuck it up in your hand drill, put some Hoppes #9 on the pads and ream away, switch over to Dawn dish soap and ream again, rinse out with cold water.
 

cvanc

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If it's all fiberglass, if it's fully waterproof, hit it with the hose. If you can hook said hose up to your hot water supply, even better.

Don't take a half hour doing it, at some remote point in time you might be softening glue joints, but you can totally hit it with scalding hot water for a couple minutes. I do it every flight on airframes that allow it. Cleans 'em right up.
 

mpitfield

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That's what I use and I'll even wrap the brush with scotch-brite pad to scrub the really tough stuff.
I cut the loop (handle) of the end and stick it in my drill. The scotch-brite pad sounds like a good idea, I have one Loki 54\2800 with a persistent mark that I left on there too long before I cleaned it. Time to hit HD.
 
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