Best switch out there.

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David Schwantz

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Looking for a screw or rotary type switch. Need to access it through the airframe that is 2" thick. Give me your opinions. What have you used that worked well, and ones that did not. Thanks.
 
You will get many opinions.

I have tried the many options out there. I have found the Missile Works screw switch to be simply the best. It is simple, very robust and can be mounted many different ways. It is also small but not too small. It is the best bang for the buck for switches...IMO. Get the 3D printed guide....you will love it. Great switch.....NO issues.

Andrew
 
See post #2 ......THIS. This is the switch I was talking about in my previous post (#3). Can't go wrong with this one.
Andrew
 
Andrew, do you by chance have pics of it assembled? The black thing, mount? Or is this the 3D guide you mentioned? Does the screw ever back out?
Titan, thanks for the link. Twist and tape will not work in this ap. It is for a 1/5 th V 2 where the airframe is 2" thick to allow access into the av bay. I need to have everything dead during assembly, and then can power up at the pad. She has HED and the av bay is in the NC.
 
Regarding the missile works switch. The black part is a guide. The screw cannot back out with it installed. I do slightly flatten a thread or two a little so the screw stays wherever I leave it. I have never had one back out, or close, inadvertently.
 
Is there a detent on the finger switch?
No detent on the FingerTech switch. The threading is extremely tight, so it takes a little force to turn the screw. I have 5 or 6 of these switches, bought at different times, and they all take a little force to turn - so they're consistent on their manufacturing. I also use the Missile Works switches with the guide & screw holder block.
 
Nice sled setup. Do you have holes, thru the sled, under the StratoLogger to allow for easy airflow to the barometric sensor? And do you run zip ties over top the battery?
Yes Plenty of breathing Room.
I use black tape around the battery, Takes less Room.
(2) 6/32 althread holes for mounting and one hole on the side for hex key switch.
Best test I have so far is it's traveled at mach 2.1, work like a champ.
 
Thanks Q, if the government only allowed you to have one kind, which would you choose? Dave.
I have worked in places where the governments just about have that much control . . .

So on that note, I am moving toward the FingerTech because you don't need the guide block. Sometimes the block makes the switch mounting a little challenging. I still have some of the MW switches and blocks in my parts stock and I am using them up. Here's the deal though with the FingerTech switches - they cost a good bit more and require the Allen wrench. So you need to keep a few wrenches on hand. If you're a penny pincher - get the MW screw switches.
As for using the switches with or without the guide blocks. Everyone has different experiences and different build techniques. I have used the switch both ways - and I prefer to use the guide block.
 
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Either switch I will need a long allen or screwdriver as the air frame is rather thick, 2" foam plus outer shell and an inner tube and the avbay finally.
 
Either switch I will need a long allen or screwdriver as the air frame is rather thick, 2" foam plus outer shell and an inner tube and the avbay finally.
If you order the FingerTech switch from the Robot Shop - be sure to order two or three Allen wrenches. They're only $1. And they have this inexpensive shipping option. I usually get my order within 8 or 9 days.
 
Can you all with 3d printers come up with a way those switches can "interface" with standard size (Additive Aerospace/Wildman & Missile Works) 3d printed sleds, specifically where the Schurter 110/220 switch would normally go? I'm sure I could come up with a DIY at home, but having a 3d printed option would be nice. :)

The Missile Works sells a 3d printed adapter piece so the screw switch can be attached in the same place the Schurter switch went on their 3d printed sleds. Note, if you use the guide that goes over the screw switch on an already built av bay, you will find that you will have to redo the holes in the bulkheads that the all-thread goes through . . . at least in the smaller diameter rockets . . . the larger diameter rockets still have enough room in the av bay that the height of the guide won’t press up against the wall of the coupler/av bay.
 
The Missile Works sells a 3d printed adapter piece so the screw switch can be attached in the same place the Schurter switch went on their 3d printed sleds. Note, if you use the guide that goes over the screw switch on an already built av bay, you will find that you will have to redo the holes in the bulkheads that the all-thread goes through . . . at least in the smaller diameter rockets . . . the larger diameter rockets still have enough room in the av bay that the height of the guide won’t press up against the wall of the coupler/av bay.
Understood. I'm not referring to MW's screw switch, I'm referring to a custom interface that would mate a FingerTech 40A Mini Power Switch in the same location intended for the Schurter 110/220 switch.
 
Yes Plenty of breathing Room.
I use black tape around the battery, Takes less Room.
(2) 6/32 althread holes for mounting and one hole on the side for hex key switch.
Best test I have so far is it's traveled at mach 2.1, work like a champ.
Is the 3D printed sled your design? I'm working with a gentleman that has some space challenges with a 54mm body tube. And is that a 300mAh 2S Lipo for the Stratologger?
 
No detent on the FingerTech switch. The threading is extremely tight, so it takes a little force to turn the screw. I have 5 or 6 of these switches, bought at different times, and they all take a little force to turn - so they're consistent on their manufacturing. I also use the Missile Works switches with the guide & screw holder block.
What size allen wrench is needed for the FingerTech switch? Their web site doesn't specify this. Thanks!
 
What size allen wrench is needed for the FingerTech switch? Their web site doesn't specify this. Thanks!

3/32", I use T handle tool.
 

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Just got the Missile Works screw switches today. For those that have used them, there is no detent to keep the screw from backing out. Have you ever had one come loose?
 
not during flight, but on the drive to launch...guess the bouncing in car for 3 hrs. vibrated them loose.. I screwed them in all the way, and buggered up bottom thread so they can't back out now..Missleworks sells a black cap thingie now to prevent this.
 
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