Dee55
Well-Known Member
Which of these be the best expoxy for the Estes Majestic rocket? Iv never used expoxy in my life and really nervous about it , I don't wanna mess anything up. Can I use plastic cement or super glue?
Best expoxy?
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Dee55
Well-Known Member
using the search engine at the top RH corner will bring up 50+ threads asking this question.
I got my start using the home depot... Whatever they sell 5 minute epoxy 
It will do quite a bit of rocketry! If you get into bigger badder rockets, you may find yourself going down the rabbit hole of fancier, specific purpose epoxies with "exotic" mixing ratios and then you get into science, dark arts, heresay, personal opinion, then you wonder if you can even stop if you wanted to... Seriously though, harbor freight, home depot, Walmart all have 5 or 30 minute 1 to 1 ratio easy to use epoxies.
Ken
It will do quite a bit of rocketry! If you get into bigger badder rockets, you may find yourself going down the rabbit hole of fancier, specific purpose epoxies with "exotic" mixing ratios and then you get into science, dark arts, heresay, personal opinion, then you wonder if you can even stop if you wanted to... Seriously though, harbor freight, home depot, Walmart all have 5 or 30 minute 1 to 1 ratio easy to use epoxies.
Ken
SecondRow
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Literally any 2-part epoxy you use will be fine. Whatever you find at the hardware store. What really matters is how much working time you want before it starts to set up - 5 minutes? 10 minutes? 15, 30?
Have isopropyl alcohol handy for clean up. Don’t work in anyplace you would regret getting glue on forever. And wear nitrile gloves.
Have isopropyl alcohol handy for clean up. Don’t work in anyplace you would regret getting glue on forever. And wear nitrile gloves.
Get a bunch of popsicle sticks, an old catalog, bigger the better, and a box of vinyl gloves. I use the catalog to mix it on then tear out that page when I'm done
Ken
Ken
The gorilla glue stuff you got is great!
Rabbit hole... Do yourself a favor and keep it simple for a while. I used the 5 minute stuff for several years before getting all mixed up in laminates, composites, fillers, additives... 
Gregory A Stewart
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If it is this kit:
https://estesrockets.com/product/009707-pro-series-ii-e2x-majestic/
Do yourself a favor & use E6000 craft glue (available from many hobby shops, Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc) for all the plastic-plastic & plastic-paper joints. Make sure to lightly rough up the bonding areas with sandpaper before gluing.
E6000 has a very strong odor when drying, do those joints outside or in the garage to keep the peace. & to accelerate the gas-off, put the model in a hot car in the sun for several days (but air out well before driving!)
Stick with wood glue for the paper-paper joints.
For the shock cord mount, instead of the stock one, get some 200lb or heavier Kevlar from someplace like rockets.biz or the other sources below.
You can either loop & tie it around the upper motor mount centering ring before installing the mount or better yet, get an appropriate-sized, but sturdy ejection baffle from erockets, Apogee, or one of the vendors selling them on EBay. Loop & tie to the ejection baffle before installing it about 6" above the motor mount (best done before installing the motor mount & fins).
When doing this, you want to both use a doubled-up run of the Kevlar kyhink redundancy! & make sure it is long enough to come out the top of the tube a couple feet.
Securely tie the stock shock cord to the end of the Kevlar & the other end to the nose cone.
Also get a package of larger-sized Barrel Swivels from the fishing department at Walmart or similar to reduce parachute tangling.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. No one else mentioned, it is "epoxy".
& I have no issues with using epoxy where it is warranted, but for assembling these kits from Estes E6000 (& the Kevlar / ejection baffle) make it so much easier to build & fly.
https://estesrockets.com/product/009707-pro-series-ii-e2x-majestic/
Do yourself a favor & use E6000 craft glue (available from many hobby shops, Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc) for all the plastic-plastic & plastic-paper joints. Make sure to lightly rough up the bonding areas with sandpaper before gluing.
E6000 has a very strong odor when drying, do those joints outside or in the garage to keep the peace. & to accelerate the gas-off, put the model in a hot car in the sun for several days (but air out well before driving!)
Stick with wood glue for the paper-paper joints.
For the shock cord mount, instead of the stock one, get some 200lb or heavier Kevlar from someplace like rockets.biz or the other sources below.
You can either loop & tie it around the upper motor mount centering ring before installing the mount or better yet, get an appropriate-sized, but sturdy ejection baffle from erockets, Apogee, or one of the vendors selling them on EBay. Loop & tie to the ejection baffle before installing it about 6" above the motor mount (best done before installing the motor mount & fins).
When doing this, you want to both use a doubled-up run of the Kevlar kyhink redundancy! & make sure it is long enough to come out the top of the tube a couple feet.
Securely tie the stock shock cord to the end of the Kevlar & the other end to the nose cone.
Also get a package of larger-sized Barrel Swivels from the fishing department at Walmart or similar to reduce parachute tangling.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. No one else mentioned, it is "epoxy".
& I have no issues with using epoxy where it is warranted, but for assembling these kits from Estes E6000 (& the Kevlar / ejection baffle) make it so much easier to build & fly.
Dee55
Well-Known Member
Thanks.. gorilla wood glue is what I use for my fins so the old ape will be good for epoxy.
What’s the rated yield strength on that epoxy?
I ended up getting the highest-rated stuff they had at my Home Depot when I was building my Star Orbiter. A 24-hour cure is probably a bit overkill, but then again that means that the odds of the single point of catastrophic failure being the epoxy joints is close to zero.
I ended up getting the highest-rated stuff they had at my Home Depot when I was building my Star Orbiter. A 24-hour cure is probably a bit overkill, but then again that means that the odds of the single point of catastrophic failure being the epoxy joints is close to zero.
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I use JB Kwik Weld for tacking down fins. It sets in 5 minutes. I use the JB liquid 5 minute epoxy to hold BB's in the nose cone and for epoxy dams. For fillets I use PC Super Epoxy. It doesn't need thickeners. Takes about 30 minutes to set. It doesn't run or drip. It stays where you put it. I can do all the fins at once. No nasty smell. I'm very glad I found it.
For future reference, you could have clicked on Edit on your original post and added the picture there instead of starting a new thread with just the picture.
mhanna
Well-Known Member
I've used the JB Weld epoxy recently and it holds great. My problem with it is the plastic bottles are too firm and hard to squeeze, and it really smells compared to other epoxy I've used. I like the 5 min. stuff hobby stores sell better.
Dee55
Well-Known Member
Thanks
