Best adhesive for paper to plastic?

[Tinker]

Hello all,

i need to glue a cut cut open bt-55 tube around a booster-55 used as a fin can. The booster-55 is Estes plastic. What would be the best adhesive to accomplish this? I figure I could use JB Weld, but that seems heavy and messy. Would something like gorilla glue or liquid nails be better?

thank you,
Tinker

 

[davel]

If you need good strength on a paper to plastic bond, then nothing will beat an MMA adhesive.

 

[Tonimus]

I would score the plastic and use epoxy.

 

[K'Tesh]

I would score the plastic and use epoxy.

What he ^ said...

This is what Estes calls for with their PSII line of rockets when it comes to bonding the retainer to the motor tube.

I cannot be certain of the glues I can find here in China, and for my Astron Sprint XL build, I've drilled holes in the shoulder area of the tail cone, and will use epoxy to make the bond. I plan on being a tad liberal with it, with the idea that the excess will flow back into the holes and form epoxy rivets.

 

[Tinker]

Thank you all. I thought epoxy would work, but I thought it might be heavy. I guess I should use standard JB Weld as I don't think I could get an even layer of JB Quick on before it starts to set.

Tinker

 

[hcmbanjo]

I've had very good luck with the Beacon Fabri-Tac glue.

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2016/05/plastic-to-kraft-tube-glue.html

This glue contains acetone and bonds very well on tube to plastic joints.

 

[BEC]

Or.....Pacer Formula 560. This is similar to the old Wilhold RC-56 that was known in the model airplane community as "canopy glue". It's water-based but makes great slightly flexible wood-to-plastic or paper-to-plastic joints.

When I get around to using one or more of the Booster-55s or Booster-60s I've accumulated on various closeout sales, that's what I will use. But I have some on hand, which helps. In need to look into what Chris posted.

 

[Trident]

I may be misunderstanding exactly what you are doing (i.e. does the BT-55 really need to be cut open.)
Are you just using the Booster-55 as a quick way to add fins to a BT-55? If so, just peel the short piece of tubing off the top, sand it as needed to remove glue residue, and epoxy or JB Weld a standard BT-55 to it. I've made a number of theseswhen Hobby Lobby was selling the Booster-55 for 99 cents.

 

[Tinker]

I may be misunderstanding exactly what you are doing (i.e. does the BT-55 really need to be cut open.)
Are you just using the Booster-55 as a quick way to add fins to a BT-55? If so, just peel the short piece of tubing off the top, sand it as needed to remove glue residue, and epoxy or JB Weld a standard BT-55 to it. I've made a number of theseswhen Hobby Lobby was selling the Booster-55 for 99 cents.

Actually I need these bt-55 rockets for boosters. (On an Estes Mammoth) The diameter of the cap on the booster-55 is larger than the bt-55 tube. I need it to be flush so when the PSII booster separates, so it doesn't catch the lip of the cap. I am using 1 fin on the booster, so it is where the gap is in the cut open bt-55. By putting this 'wrap' around the fin can, it gives me that little bit of separation I need, and protects the plastic fin can from the thrust of the second stage.



Tinker

 

[BABAR]

I've had very good luck with the Beacon Fabri-Tac glue.

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2016/05/plastic-to-kraft-tube-glue.html

This glue contains acetone and bonds very well on tube to plastic joints.

View attachment 328472

Chris, can you do a fillet with this glue?

 

[rcktnut]

Medium Vis. CA

 

[jimzcatz]

Testors plastic model cement is more then adequate. Orange not blue. The blue non toxic crap won't work. Been doing it this way for 30 years.