3D Printing Best 3d printer for rocketry?

[Egoldee]

I have an ender 3 and have used many creality printers.
I have also used a prusa.
The creality printers are lower quality and grenaly need more tinkering.
The creality printers are fine If you don't mind spending a lot of time getting your printer they why you want it with mods.
If you want something that just works I would recommend a prusa.

 

[PhilC]

Top of the line would be a Prusa i3 MK3S+, and i think its well worth the cost for its reliability and precision.

Best printer I've ever owned. We've just got one for our university rocket club and its probably the best printer on campus!

 

[rAUM]

Thanks for the input!
After looking through printers I think I'm going to get a Prusa mk3s(The kit version).
How has everyone's experience been with them?
Also, I noticed that the lead time is 4 to 5 weeks. Does anyone know another place that sells genuine Prusas?
Thanks!

I don't know if you bought something, I have the sovol sv03 and it is pretty good overal (dual z, direct drive, good out of the box) and there is a sale going on their website.

 

[DaveinMI]

I'll post this for anyone still on the bubble trying to decide what to buy. I've had a Prusa for five years, and I've also had an Ender 5+, and a couple others. Prusa is what I'd go with if you just want something that works, without a hassle. This is a first from Prusa, but use it quick, expires doon

 

[bad_idea]

Sorry to bump an older thread, but I didn't see a newer one of the same topic.
Is the Prusa i3 MK3S+ still considered a top pick a few months down the line?

Asking because it seems like a new 3D printer is released every week. Trying to find where to put a toe into the water for the first time is bewildering.

 

[cwbullet]

Sorry to bump an older thread, but I didn't see a newer one of the same topic.
Is the Prusa i3 MK3S+ still considered a top pick a few months down the line?

Asking because it seems like a new 3D printer is released every week. Trying to find where to put a toe into the water for the first time is bewildering.

It is still a great option that is very reliable and easy to use. I have quite a few Prusas and they keep printing and need very little tinkering and maintenance. I also have a few other brands and there really is no comparison. I am building a Voron and have an XL readying to ship in January.

The only other printer I might consider is a Bambu, but it does not have the same level of support or flexibility at this stage.

 

[JohnCoker]

If you have others locally doing 3D printing, then choosing a printer they use allows you to share info.

It's probably also important to consider budget. There's probably no "the best", but there may be a "the best under $X".

IMO, the MarkForged MarkTwo is the most useful because it does a great job with Nylon and has the option of CF reinforcement. I've also used a Prusa MK3 and Ultimaker S5 which also are also good printers. The S5 and upcoming bigger Prusa can do soluble supports, which is a very nice convenience.

 

[ShadowSpire48]

It is still a great option that is very reliable and easy to use. I have quite a few Prusas and they keep printing and need very little tinkering and maintenance. I also have a few other brands and there really is no comparison. I am building a Voron and have an XL readying to ship in January.

The only other printer I might consider is a Bambu, but it does not have the same level of support or flexibility at this stage.

I was looking at a Voron 2.4 the other day. From the looks of it, they seem to be quite literally in pieces that go together like a true kit. I need something a bit larger than my 300x300x400 build plate for larger nose cones and stuff

 

[Egoldee]

I was looking at a Voron 2.4 the other day. From the looks of it, they seem to be quite literally in pieces that go together like a true kit. I need something a bit larger than my 300x300x400 build plate for larger nose cones and stuff

I am building a voron 2.4 now. It is a list of possible parts and a how to put them together and some places sell kits. So far it seems like it will take a few months for me to build as an enthusiast project.
I can report back on how it goes.

 

[0011001100]

IMO, the MarkForged MarkTwo is the most useful...

Having used a Mark Two and Prusa, the Mark Two is the only printer I have every used and had literally no issues with. It was even more reliable than the Prusas but I guess that is expected since it cost ~20x a Prusa kit.

 

[cwbullet]

I was looking at a Voron 2.4 the other day. From the looks of it, they seem to be quite literally in pieces that go together like a true kit. I need something a bit larger than my 300x300x400 build plate for larger nose cones and stuff

If you can afford it, the Prusa XL or FLSUN V400. Both will give you that volume and reportedly are reliable. The Voron 2.4 is another option but they only come in kit form.

 

[ShadowSpire48]

If you can afford it, the Prusa XL or FLSUN V400. Both will give you that volume and reportedly are reliable. The Voron 2.4 is another option but they only come in kit form.

I don’t mind the kit form. The thing that makes me lean to the Voron is the built in enclosure to do ABS and HIPS

 

[cwbullet]

I don’t mind the kit form. The thing that makes me lean to the Voron is the built in enclosure to do ABS and HIPS

It does take quite a bit of tinkering. I have a 2.4 that I am building.

 

[BigMacDaddy]

I have been very happy with my Fysetc Clone MK3s+ printers so far. Not sure I would recommend them as your first printer (I got mine as my 3rd -- and 4th though 6th) -- although assembly is basically the same as the Prusa. Just need to buy a different hot end than what comes with it (although I did not even try their hotend and just replaced it based on recommendations online).

You can get these for under $300 when sales happen -- https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803444597845.html
I added this hotend -- https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803652412480.html

FWIW -- you can also buy all the parts for the Voron 2.4 at once -- https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802607794119.html

 

[ShadowSpire48]

It does take quite a bit of tinkering. I have a 2.4 that I am building.

Do you have to program it and everything as well or just the mechanical building?

 

[cwbullet]

Do you have to program it and everything as well or just the mechanical building?

Mechanical building. It works well with programming.

 

[cwbullet]

I ordered a Bambu X1C. We will see how it holds up.

 

[jdsmith39]

I have a Prusa Mk3S. Works great. However, if you plan on using more than just PLA, PETG and TPU, I recommend getting an enclosure. I have a Prusa Box.
https://www.printer-box.com/categorie-produit/enclosure-for-3d-printers/enclosure-prusa-mk3s/
I added the mods for the Hepa/carbon filter among some other mods I did for it. Looks like they now offer a Pro version that already includes those things and more. All four walls and the top are doors that can also be completely removed.

I use the enclosure for printing ASA. I haven't had a need for Nylon or PC yet, but it would help with those as well. Enclosure is the best add-on I've gotten/did for my printer.

I haven't ordered one yet, but I'll be getting a Prusa XL eventually.

 

[Rustoleum]

I have been going back and forth for months between buying the Bambo X1C with the ASC or building the Voron 2.4
Then there are times I think about buying the X1C and printing the build parts to build the 2.4.
Simplicity versus build volume.

 

[cwbullet]

I have a Prusa Mk3S. Works great. However, if you plan on using more than just PLA, PETG and TPU, I recommend getting an enclosure. I have a Prusa Box.
https://www.printer-box.com/categorie-produit/enclosure-for-3d-printers/enclosure-prusa-mk3s/
I added the mods for the Hepa/carbon filter among some other mods I did for it. Looks like they now offer a Pro version that already includes those things and more. All four walls and the top are doors that can also be completely removed.
View attachment 546562
I use the enclosure for printing ASA. I haven't had a need for Nylon or PC yet, but it would help with those as well. Enclosure is the best add-on I've gotten/did for my printer.

I haven't ordered one yet, but I'll be getting a Prusa XL eventually.

I will do a review of my XL when I get it. I also have a Voron in the build pile and will have a Bambu. I really like the reliability of the Prusas.

 

[jdsmith39]

I will do a review of my XL when I get it. I also have a Voron in the build pile and will have a Bambu. I really like the reliability of the Prusas.

I look forward to your review of the XL!
How many tool changers are you getting? If more than one, what are you planning on using them for? I was leaning toward at least two, simply for having PETG and ASA loaded at all times. If I did a 3rd, I'd have PLA loaded, too.

I really need the print volume more than anything. I've designed and printed fin cans for LOC 4" diameter and had to split the piece in half (they are threaded together) and the fins had to be separate, too. Side note: I mainly use ASA for fin cans. Less dense (so it's lighter) and higher heat resistance. Though PETG would be fine in almost all cases. I just enjoy printing ASA.

From what I've seen about the Voron, they are good machines. However, they aren't good as a first 3D printer. I really like the concept behind the Voron, being plans/design of a printer and then you get the pieces and build it.

 

[Adrian A]

I will do a review of my XL when I get it. I also have a Voron in the build pile and will have a Bambu. I really like the reliability of the Prusas.

When are you expecting to get it? I just saw on the site that the first units are expected in Dec 2022 but new orders would be in the second half of 2023 (!)

The Artillery Sidewinder has a 300 x 300 x 400 work volume and good reviews from someone who prints a lot of RC planes. Anyone here try it?

 

[cwbullet]

When are you expecting to get it? I just saw on the site that the first units are expected in Dec 2022 but new orders would be in the second half of 2023 (!)

The Artillery Sidewinder has a 300 x 300 x 400 work volume and good reviews from someone who prints a lot of RC planes. Anyone here try it?

Reserved orders will start shipping in Jan of 2023. Orders placed today will start shipping in middle to late 2023. They have quite a few reserved orders. I should get mine in late December or the first 1-2 weeks in January.

 

[cwbullet]

I look forward to your review of the XL!
How many tool changers are you getting? If more than one, what are you planning on using them for? I was leaning toward at least two, simply for having PETG and ASA loaded at all times. If I did a 3rd, I'd have PLA loaded, too.

I really need the print volume more than anything. I've designed and printed fin cans for LOC 4" diameter and had to split the piece in half (they are threaded together) and the fins had to be separate, too. Side note: I mainly use ASA for fin cans. Less dense (so it's lighter) and higher heat resistance. Though PETG would be fine in almost all cases. I just enjoy printing ASA.

From what I've seen about the Voron, they are good machines. However, they aren't good as a first 3D printer. I really like the concept behind the Voron, being plans/design of a printer and then you get the pieces and build it.

I ordered one but I am going to change it to 5. I plan to do some multicolor and multi material prints.

The fin can: What is the span and height?

 

[ShadowSpire48]

When are you expecting to get it? I just saw on the site that the first units are expected in Dec 2022 but new orders would be in the second half of 2023 (!)

The Artillery Sidewinder has a 300 x 300 x 400 work volume and good reviews from someone who prints a lot of RC planes. Anyone here try it?

Trust me on this, you do NOT want a Sidewinder. I have one and it's a load of crap. It uses ribbon cables instead of normal wiring/cabling and ribbon cables while they look sleeker and nice, are not designed for the heat and movements that printers produce. They burn quite often and they love to do it during a print so your print fails. I regret ever purchasing one. My Z cable burned out at some point last year and I have yet to replace it or use the printer again. The touch screen is also a hassle to deal with. I've had to restart the printer multiple times to get it to accept touch input. You will also have a damn near impossible time fitting an enclosure around it because the electronics are stored in the base and not separate like a CR10 so anything really past PLA+ is not possible. Even PETG needs a rework of the extruder to get right.

 

[jdsmith39]

The fin can: What is the span and height?

I'm glad you asked! The 4 inch diameter fin can is 400mm tall. So too big for the XL. However, I have many other fin cans which it would allow more flexibility for. I'm about done with the design of a 2.6" diameter fin can, which is ~280mm tall. With the XL I'm sure I could print the fins with it as well.
Here's a pic of a rocket I made with the 4" fin can.

The fins are bolted on with M5 screws/nuts which are inserted slightly into the plastic. This stops the nuts from turning and slightly more aerodynamic. On this rocket, the fins are plywood. The fin channel is designed for 1/4" inch (6mm) plywood. The first rocket I did with this, I printed the fins. I think plywood is the better route if you have the equipment for it.

I make rockets out of the packaging tubes for motors.

Everything less than 54mm packaging tube size is good with my current bed size on my Prusa Mk3s. The 54mm packaging tubes I had to add a fourth fin in order for it to fit on the print bed.

All of these I design with a tube insert for the motor mount. This helps protect the plastic from the heat of a rocket motor. The 4" fin can pictured above has a 54mm motor mount. I have another that has a 75mm motor mount. The packaging tube rockets: 24/29mm packaging tube has an 18mm motor mount, 38mm packaging tube has a 24mm motor mount and the 54mm packaging tube has a 29mm motor mount.

A bit more than you asked for...

 

[Adrian A]

Trust me on this, you do NOT want a Sidewinder. I have one and it's a load of crap. It uses ribbon cables instead of normal wiring/cabling and ribbon cables while they look sleeker and nice, are not designed for the heat and movements that printers produce. They burn quite often and they love to do it during a print so your print fails. I regret ever purchasing one. My Z cable burned out at some point last year and I have yet to replace it or use the printer again. The touch screen is also a hassle to deal with. I've had to restart the printer multiple times to get it to accept touch input. You will also have a damn near impossible time fitting an enclosure around it because the electronics are stored in the base and not separate like a CR10 so anything really past PLA+ is not possible. Even PETG needs a rework of the extruder to get right.

I'd like to make a thin-walled inner liner for a 54mm nosecone that would be about 400 mm tall. Maybe I should try sending it out to a printing service? I'm still interested in getting my own printer to experiment with av-bays and rocket guidance mechanisms.

 

[ShadowSpire48]

I'd like to make a thin-walled inner liner for a 54mm nosecone that would be about 400 mm tall. Maybe I should try sending it out to a printing service? I'm still interested in getting my own printer to experiment with av-bays and rocket guidance mechanisms.

I noticed that printers that have a build height of 400mm will not actually print 400mm tall stuff (at least in my experience). 54mm x 400mm is long and skinny, very prone to wobble z banding and stuff if you’re not careful

 

[rellis2]

Following this thread closely. Looking to print a PVC rocket for hybrid use. Solves recovery problem if rocket eats itself.
Joking, but actually would be interesting to print your own propellant.

 

[DRAGON64]

I am not sure this is the best for rocketry, it would seem that most printers are, but I wanted/needed a new printer, and found the Ender 5 S1 on a pre-order. I watched a number of video reviews on youtube, and read a couple written reviews, then found a sale of $503 plus free shipping at Creality.com. Should arrive between Dec 26 - Jan 5... We'll see, since China shipping is reall slow now.

The build volume of 220 X 220 X 280 is a little smaller than my Creality CR-10S, but I have the CR-10S for this purpose anyway. The CR-10S just needs a bit of tweeking, and I believe it will come back around and stop its 'stringing' trend.