My issue with Anycubic and Creality is the amount of tinkering and poor support. Bambulabs and Prusa give much better support, but you must pay for it.
3D Printing Best 3d printer for rocketry?
- Thread starter diyaerospace
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So true, all of the support for my CR-10S came from watching youtube videos on how to fix minor errors, or surfing thingyverse looking for printable upgrades. Otherwise everything on my printer is stock, except for the G10 build plate I bought from Tiny Machines 3D.
Wanted to update my previous post with a warning about the Fysetc MK3s clones.
I am having pretty major issues with a couple of them -- basically they are losing z-axis steps when in the enclosure but seem to print ok when the door is open or outside the enclosure (I assume stepper controllers are overheating). One of them also wound up crashing into the print bed when it lost Z-axis steps / calibration so now the heat bed is giving me issues.
I have not had time to mess around with them but Fysetc has terrible support (basically they just want to avoid providing any replacement parts). I could disassemble the printers and return them but any replacement main boards, etc... seem out of the question. AliExpress does not understand complex technical issues like this nor do they appreciate the time / energy that goes into assembling the printers. However, support is complex since it is possible that customers assemble the printers incorrectly (although my open door vs close door symptom does seem to eliminate assembly error as the cause).
So these are the tradeoffs when trying to save a bit by not buying from Prusa directly.
I am having pretty major issues with a couple of them -- basically they are losing z-axis steps when in the enclosure but seem to print ok when the door is open or outside the enclosure (I assume stepper controllers are overheating). One of them also wound up crashing into the print bed when it lost Z-axis steps / calibration so now the heat bed is giving me issues.
I have not had time to mess around with them but Fysetc has terrible support (basically they just want to avoid providing any replacement parts). I could disassemble the printers and return them but any replacement main boards, etc... seem out of the question. AliExpress does not understand complex technical issues like this nor do they appreciate the time / energy that goes into assembling the printers. However, support is complex since it is possible that customers assemble the printers incorrectly (although my open door vs close door symptom does seem to eliminate assembly error as the cause).
So these are the tradeoffs when trying to save a bit by not buying from Prusa directly.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
I bought ny CR10V2 from Tiny Machines 3D, and have done very little "tinkering", they installed all the upgrades I ordered and test the unit as well, they also uploaded improved firmware to the machine. If you buy your Creality from them the customer service is great.
My experience was no way near as smooth. I own a V1 CR10S Pro. I could get replacement parts type of help from Creality, but they do not have the support network at BambuLabs or Prusa have online. I can get support by text from Prusa 24 hours a day and they often replace faulty parts quickly. The forum support is phenomenal. Bambu appears to equally well supported but I have a few days of experience with them.
Creality tinkering is machine dependent. Some do and some don’t. Based on my research, I would guess that 30-50% of users have to tinker and give up. You can see them readily available for sale on eBay and Craigslist.
I would base any purchase on your ability to tinker and patience. If you are technically and mechanically savvy, buy what every your budget will support. If not, save for a Prusa or Bambulabs.
ozzy76
Member
There are plans available for lpr rockets already available and at least one online provider of printed rockets.
One of the biggest downsides to a 3d printed rocket is the temperature range of the plastics commonly used. From memory they start to soften around the 60-80 degree mark so cannot safely be used near a reloadable motor or anywhere that is subject to aerodynamic heating.
There is good reason why timber and cardboard have been used in most kits for so long.
One of the biggest downsides to a 3d printed rocket is the temperature range of the plastics commonly used. From memory they start to soften around the 60-80 degree mark so cannot safely be used near a reloadable motor or anywhere that is subject to aerodynamic heating.
There is good reason why timber and cardboard have been used in most kits for so long.
That us PLA. PETG is fine for rocketry.
It is not so difficult to print with ABS (or PETG+) and it holds up to much higher temperatures. I have done tons of motor mounts, shrouds, engine blocks, etc... and never had an issue with them melting. The only place that gets too hot for ABS is in the hot zone behind the engine.
However, I still agree that it makes sense to use carboard, balsa/plywood, and other materials where they fit the purpose better than 3D printed parts. 3D printed materials are better for details and complex engineered parts.
The "best" 3D printer is the one that you know how to use and set up properly. I've had my Ender 5+ for a few years now and I've done a lot of upgrades to make it better than it was "out of the box". However, before I added those upgrades, I used it extensively to figure out how to level the bed, set the Z offset and Z compensation, what the best setting for speed and retraction was, best temps for the filament I was using, and what temps to use.
Last time I had used it before yesterday was back in the summer. I printed a few zero-clearance inserts for my table saw and then printed a new direct-drive mount to allow me to replace the original single gear extruder with a new dual-gear one. After I got everything assembled I left it and didn't use it until yesterday. With the new extruder should have run all of my calibration tests again, but I just ran a new print just to see how it did.
This is the first layer of my electronics sled that I am working on in Fusion 360. This was after the printer sitting for several months with no use and new hardware added with no testing. The slicer I used is Simplify3D (S3D) version 5.01.
Last time I had used it before yesterday was back in the summer. I printed a few zero-clearance inserts for my table saw and then printed a new direct-drive mount to allow me to replace the original single gear extruder with a new dual-gear one. After I got everything assembled I left it and didn't use it until yesterday. With the new extruder should have run all of my calibration tests again, but I just ran a new print just to see how it did.
This is the first layer of my electronics sled that I am working on in Fusion 360. This was after the printer sitting for several months with no use and new hardware added with no testing. The slicer I used is Simplify3D (S3D) version 5.01.
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Throwing in my $0.02... I own 3x Prusa, 1x Creality, 1x Voron.
As others already mentioned: 1) direct-drive is the way; 2) Prusa MK3S+ is a solid choice.
#1 is pretty much a given at this point -- regardless of your budget. You can get a Creality Ender S1 which is direct-drive for about $270 from Microcenter. If you get a lemon...return it within 14 days for another. All things considered, the S1 (and S1 Pro) are decent and offer a very good out of the box experience if you don't get a lemon.
With so many good options there's never been a better time to get a 3D printer. Prusa MK3S+, Voron Trident 250, Creality S1/S1 Pro Sovol SV06, Bambu P1P/X1 and the list goes on. I absolutely use my MK3S+ the most. Since I'm fortunate enough to have multiple printers I can keep them setup for different purposes/materials.
One thing about Prusa...don't bother with the Mini at this point. It's OK, but especially since the price increase you're better off getting something else.
As others already mentioned: 1) direct-drive is the way; 2) Prusa MK3S+ is a solid choice.
#1 is pretty much a given at this point -- regardless of your budget. You can get a Creality Ender S1 which is direct-drive for about $270 from Microcenter. If you get a lemon...return it within 14 days for another. All things considered, the S1 (and S1 Pro) are decent and offer a very good out of the box experience if you don't get a lemon.
With so many good options there's never been a better time to get a 3D printer. Prusa MK3S+, Voron Trident 250, Creality S1/S1 Pro Sovol SV06, Bambu P1P/X1 and the list goes on. I absolutely use my MK3S+ the most. Since I'm fortunate enough to have multiple printers I can keep them setup for different purposes/materials.
One thing about Prusa...don't bother with the Mini at this point. It's OK, but especially since the price increase you're better off getting something else.
