Aurora Clipper 18mm from Arkansas [Dynasoar Rocketry]

[Crawf56]

As you may recall, I chose not to use rail buttons, but launch lugs. I have a 1/4" launch rod that I use. (Ordered from McMaster-Carr.)

So, for a 1/4 inch diameter launch rod, you really need a 3/8" lug. I found some 10mm (slightly larger than 3/8") paper straws from Amazon. Going to give these a try.

 

[Crawf56]

Cutting up and attaching the straw/launch lug. These are pretty thick.

 

[Crawf56]

Here is the Transmitter I am using: Spektrum DX6 [DSMX type].

 

[Crawf56]

Note that I am adding 'expo' [exponential] to the controls.

Normally, the relationship between a transmitter and the controls is LINEAR. If you move the control stick half-way [50%] to the right, then the elevons deflect half of their total movement.

But on small, light models like the Aurora, you don't need a lot of control.....unless you are in trouble. So, you are normally moving the control stick a very small amount. But when you are in trouble, you are pulling back all the way!

Expo changes the linear relationship of control and servo movement. If you move the control stick 25%, the servos (which control the elevons) only move 10%. But if the control stick moves 100%, then the servo moves 100%.

 

[Crawf56]

The Spektrum radios have a very good system for setting up Flaps.

On normal airplanes, like a WW2 fighter, flaps drop down to give more lift. This is typically used during landing.

For rocket gliders, you generally need some 'up' on the elevator or elevons to maintain a good glide path. Some people just pull back on the control stick. But another way to do this is to use the Flap control. Hit a switch, and the elevons lift a little. See the second pic.

 

[Crawf56]

On the Spektrum transmitter, you get to the Flap System on the Function List, and them set up the control as you like.

 

[Crawf56]

Painted the nose cone, though not sure I like the color. But will work for now.

Had to add a little tape to the nose cone because the fit with the body tube was a little loose.

Some velcro inside to hold the battery.

 

[Crawf56]

A look at the Aurora on the Launch Pad. Making sure all is well.

 

[burkefj]

No flights yet?

 

[Crawf56]

No flights yet?

A few setbacks, which have nothing to do with the model:

1) WEATHER - We have had wind and rain lately, so I am waiting for an acceptable day.

2) INJURY - I have a foot injury, which is healing well. But not healed yet.

I hope to get this bird in the air in a couple of weeks.

 

[Crawf56]

Had a good first flight today!

The Aurora performed superbly. But I made a mistake, and let the model get too far down wind. The stability of the design allowed me to bring it back, even though it was about 75 yards away.

Winds were out of the south at 3 to 5 mph. In the launch pad pic, the wind is coming from the pic location (on to the top of the model). The launch rod [1/4"] is also slightly angled to the north (away from the pic).

At launch, the model tracked pretty good, though I let it continue down wind.

 

[Crawf56]

When the Aurora reached apogee, I moved the elevons to glide position (slightly "up").

This worked extremely well! But I let the Aurora get too far away (100 yards).

When I turned the model to 'come back', I was looking at the nose. And I was looking at a white model in a background of clouds. The underside markings helped a LOT, but as the model got closer to the ground, they were less effective.

Fortunately, the inherent stability of the design allowed me the time to adjust the glide path.

Before the next flight, I want to do a few things:

1. Paint the underside of the nose black.
2. Apply the decals.

I think these will help the model show up better for old eyes.

A very good model. I hope to get more pics and a video.

 

[burkefj]

When the Aurora reached apogee, I moved the elevons to glide position (slightly "up").

This worked extremely well! But I let the Aurora get too far away (100 yards).

When I turned the model to 'come back', I was looking at the nose. And I was looking at a white model in a background of clouds. The underside markings helped a LOT, but as the model got closer to the ground, they were less effective.

Fortunately, the inherent stability of the design allowed me the time to adjust the glide path.

Before the next flight, I want to do a few things:

1. Paint the underside of the nose black.
2. Apply the decals.

I think these will help the model show up better for old eyes.

A very good model. I hope to get more pics and a video.

View attachment 531347

Great, you can always roll half way and boost into the wind once off the rod and have some altitude and avoid getting too far down wind

BTW aerotech is doing another run of the D2.3T motors so I ordered 100 3 packs and so I'll bring back the 18mm version of this kit again in a few months when I have them.

Frank

 

[Crawf56]

Since I had a successful launch/flight, I can add my "PanAm" decals from StickerShock.

 

[Crawf56]

Be sure and follow the instructions at SickerShock23.com: https://stickershock23.com/ufaqs/how-do-i-install-my-decal/

It was a bit of a challenge of get the decals right.

 

[timb]

BTW aerotech is doing another run of the D2.3T motors so I ordered 100 3 packs and so I'll bring back the 18mm version of this kit again in a few months when I have them.

Frank

That's excellent news - hate the thought of a lot of models grounded due to lack of motors. I burn a number of C3 (and D7's but in larger models of course) as well so I'm hoping we can get a run of those from time to time too.

 

[Crawf56]

Got in a couple of more flights. Everything flies better with stickers.

 

[Crawf56]

This tool from Dynasoar Rocketry is really handy. (Though, I did have to file it a little to make it fit.)

 

[Crawf56]

On the Aerotech D2.3 motors, I have to peel off a little of the cardboard casing to make them fit the 18mm Reloadable Motor Casing.

 

[Crawf56]

Note that the igniters for the D2.3 are SPECIAL! There is a little bit of silver showing near the tip. The other igniters are NOT like this, and they will not fit through the nozzle.

In the pic, the D2.3 igniter is at bottom, while a standard igniter is at top.

 

[Crawf56]

As shown in various video instructions, you better off running the igniter through the nozzle BEFORE you install the nozzle on the Reload Casing.

 

[Crawf56]

Launch of the Aurora Clipper 18mm at the Mid-South Rocket Society in Memphis, TN [Shelby Farms], on 8/20/2022. Using a D2.3 motor.