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attaching nosecone tips

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stetson623

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building my level 1 attempt. would like to hear tips on attaching the nose cone. I think an eye bolt alone is a bit dodgey... would like to put an eye bolt with a washer/nut combo reinforced with epoxy to ensure that it does not separate. My concern is in order to do this i would need to cut into the side of the nose cone (the non exposed part). thereby potentially affecting the fit. suggestions???

also how do you attach the shock cord... this kit came with a 1/4" bungee, just tying it to the eye bolt seems rather weak. any suggestions for reinforcing this?

while your contemplating that. what is the best way to reinforce the fin fillets. I have no expierence with fiberglass so any input is helpful.

thanks builders!!! see you at the next launch
 

new2hpr

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What diameter is the kit? If it's fairly large (>3"), you can cut a window out of the back end (between the eyebolt boss and the shoulder) and hold a nut in there with pliers while tightening the eyebolt. Then just drizzle a bit of epoxy over the nut to keep it from loosening. A simpler way is just cut two small holes in the back end and loop your cord through that and knot it.

Don't be afraid of the knots. Most swear by them (some swear at them). You should get some feedback about what knot to use (or just search for knots on this site).

Good luck on your L1.
-Ken
 

Samuron

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For my level 1, I used a 1/4" hollow wall anchor in a 4" BSD nosecone, squirted epoxy up through the hole to cover the fingers, and installed the eyebolt. That sucker is never coming out.

bolt.JPG
 

MarkII

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I always use balsa nose cones, even with my big guys. Turn a screw eye into the base, unscrew it, drop in a generous amount of epoxy, and then screw the eye back in. With a large plastic nose cone, I might saw off the bottom end of the shoulder and replace it with a plywood bulkhead.

MarkII
 

GRIFFIN

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Here is what i have done. It is rock solid and works great.

-Cut off the bottom of the nosecone
-Roughen up the inside where the "shoulder" of the cone starts (the lip inside the cone)
-Epoxy a (large inside dia.) centering ring inside cone resting on the "lip" make sure all epoxy is wiped from outer surface.
-Get a bulkhead plate that will fit over that ring (some sanding may be needed)
drill holes through the plate and the ring below. (one at a time to make sure the holes stay lined up.
- Install 4-40 "T'' nuts (or blind nuts...what ever you want to call them) in the centering ring.
- Add a U-Bolt or Eyelet of choise and wah-lah you are done.

This allows you to later access the inside of the nose to add weight or a cargo bay.
I have also added a threaded rod through the center of the plate to make weight adjustments (adding washers for weight and then screwing a wingnut to hold in place.)

Im sure people will say alot of this is overkill......but I have never lost a nosecone

Hope that helps.

roc for 003.jpg


roc for 004.jpg


roc for 005.jpg


roc for 006.jpg
 

MarkII

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That looks really good.

Overkill/overbuilding is a serious mismatch between what the builder puts in vs. what the rocket really requires for the type of flying that it will do. But regardless of what anyone on a forum says, it's always ultimately the builder's project, so that's who decides how the rocket goes together. I think that I may steal this idea for the next time that I use a similar large hollow plastic nose cone. :D

MarkII
 
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ONAWHIM

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...centering ring inside cone resting on the "lip"
Griffin,

Thanks for your post.

Would you clarify, if the exterior of the nose cone reduces in outside diameter transitioning aft to the shoulder, how is it that there is a lip inside to seat the center ring?

I have never cut the bottom out of one and wouldn't know.
It would seem that the interior of the nose cone would open up as you passed that point.

If the nose cone wall gets thicker and thus creates a lip you describe, is this typical of all manufactured plastic nose cones?

Many thanks,

Wm.
 

GRIFFIN

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The "lip" is at the point where the base of the nosecone stops and the "shoulder" begins. So the ring gets glued in right at the top of the shoulder and just as the cone starts. If that is still confusing I could send a better picture
 
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