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Discussion in 'Low Power Rocketry (LPR)' started by Andrew_ASC, Aug 29, 2019.
In 13mm Min Diameter flavor.
I’m working on a slightly bigger one.
Fins sanded. WARNING: Basswood is very soft and only a few strokes of 220 grit are needed to apply a fine edge. And you are able to thread a screw into the nosecone by hand.
With that note more progress will be made tomorrow after work.
Got the Motor mounting engine block installed. Alpine butterfly knotted the elastic shock cord. Used some BSI 30min slow cure epoxy. Sanded the engine block with 220 grit sandpaper.
Then I took the excess epoxy and coated the spirals thin like.
First fin on. Trying a different kinda basswood glue and making a mess.
Second fin on.
Four fins on.
First set of fillets on. Trying to fillet something this small is hard.
Not if you do it right.
I can never find that elusive titebond sh*t.
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Most of the techniques from that tutorial will work with other glues as well, Q&T will give best results usually.
I'm just sayin', there are well-documented ways to make very nice wood glue fillets, and it is not hard at all.
When I use Elmers white glue, I almost always get air bubbles in the fillet....don't know why....does this also happen with Titebond glue? The white glue fillet is so much less messy than epoxy, but I don't get air bubbles with epoxy/micro ballons.
Generally you don’t get bubbles with the Quick & Thick.
If you haven't already, you should back the screw eye out and apply a drop off thin CA in the hole to harden the threads. Then put the screw eye back in.
I put BSI there
Recovery streamer on. Launch lug on.
So I've got to ask. What is that you put on the fins and body tube back in post 10? I've never seen anything quite like that used to make fillets on fins.
Do you find it easier to paint with the entre rocket assembled? I've been painting mine before I install the recovery system and nose cone.
Trying something not used often on this forum. For better or worse.
I've seen that glue at hobby lobby. It will probably work fine. Is that picture before you cleaned and smoothed it into a nice fillet with a damp finger?
That was after a popsicle stick.
I thought this was the small rocket?
For something like this I would put the tip of the bottle where the fin and body tube meet and squeeze out a nice, uniform bead while moving the bottle along the joint. Then I would dampen my finger and smooth out the bead. If I still had some extra glue I would wipe off my finger with a damp paper towel and run it across the bead again. Then I would clean my finger and move on to the next bead.
So what is your procedure with a popsicle stick?
Lost on its maiden of an A3-4T....
Hmmn, I guess the rocket gods took it into their hands before you had a chance to paint it.
Regarding the Midwest Balsa and Basswood Glue -
At the NARAM in 1975 I was hanging out with the Centuri guys.
A guy walked up and said to Bob DelPrincipe (Centuri designer):
"I love your Centuri (branded) SUPERBOND Rocket Glue. It's so much better
than all the other glues!"
Bob thanked him for the compliment, turned to me and whispered:
"We buy Titebond in gallon jugs and fill little bottles with a Centuri label on them."
The Midwest Balsa and Basswood Glue might just be re-bottled Titebond.
Shoot. I've seen 13mm rockets go out of sight on the A3-4T. That motor can really send a light rocket.
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