Anyone use Butyrate dope to paint phenolic tube?

[TD Sky]

Such as Sig "Supercoat". I remember it from my dad's old model airplane days. Even though he painted it on with a brush, it would cure very smooth and durable. I'm about to build a PML Cirrus Dart and was going to try some Sig Sanding sealer and Supercoat rather than the trusty spray paint. Any thoughts?

 

[RangerStl]

Don't put it on over anything except more Butyrate. It will lift almost anything. It should be fine, though I would use an airbrush in a WELL VENTILATED place rather than a brush.

N

 

[powderburner]

IIRC, the main purpose of butyrate dope was to "fuel proof" a model airplane to protect it from whatever damage would be caused by spilled model airplane fuel or residue from burned fuel. (That, and to cause nose bleeds.)

There are sooooo many better choices for use on our rockets-

 

[TD Sky]

Thanks. The SIG sanding sealer actually worked well sealing the phenolic, but I couldn't get it to fill the spiral groove. I decided not to use the butyrate paint and just used trust Rustoleum spray paint for the rocket. The sanding sealer has the same base as the paint so its pretty hard on the nose and lungs. Luckliy I don't do alot of phenolic.

 

[RangerStl]

IIRC, the main purpose of butyrate dope was to "fuel proof" a model airplane to protect it from whatever damage would be caused by spilled model airplane fuel or residue from burned fuel. (That, and to cause nose bleeds.)

There are sooooo many better choices for use on our rockets-

Butyrate dope was introduced to replace Nitrate dope which is soluble in Methyl alcohol, the major ingredient in model airplane glow fuel. Use whatever floats your boat. Butyrate will check plastics as well, causing little bumps and cracks to form. It could also cause warping or sagging of plastic if applied too heavily.

There's nothing saying you couldn't use it taking the proper precautions. I prefer acrylic lacquer (old Krylon) or airbrushed enamel.

N

 

[hardinlw]

Butyrate dope shrinks and needs additives to remain pliable as it ages. Whether this is an issue for you depends on how long your models last. I have some from college days on which the dope has cracked and peeled. Take a look at Klass-Kote epoxy. I used that on my Hawk Mountain Basilisk and was pleased with the results. It gives a better finish than the old K&B Super-Poxy I used to use on RC models and is easier to apply. Cleaning the spray gun is a real mess, though.