What are holes for?
3D Printing Anyone have experience with Amazon PETG?
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Very cool concept of the cooling intakes. I am curious as to its affect on the performance and cooling.
Ryan Gillette
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Just had someone mention the casing getting hot and sticking to the plastic. So I went a bit crazy with the design and added cooling in the fins for fun. Planning on launching with some high power 38mm and see how it does. Should be fun. Just need the temperature to warm up a bit. -20 is a bit to cold for me to mess with rockets. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will whistle or something cool.
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> Just had someone mention the casing getting hot and sticking to the plastic. So I went a bit crazy with the design and added cooling in the fins for fun. Planning on launching with some high power 38mm and see how it does.
In the 3d printed fin cans that I made, I used a standard motor mount tube as an insulator between the motor and the plastic. I will be interested in seeing your results.
In the 3d printed fin cans that I made, I used a standard motor mount tube as an insulator between the motor and the plastic. I will be interested in seeing your results.
I’m using Amaz3d PETG from amazon and it works really well. 0.05mm +z offset and really really slow speed (like 10mm/s) on the first layer - temps 245/70... Blue tape on the bed. my stock Prusia seems ok with this - but 245 is pushing the absolute max... The roll keeps tangling though which has spoiled a couple of prints on me.
It took a long time to get the temps and speeds dialled in. Couldn’t get the first layer to bond. Different PETG plastics behave very differently (some are ok at 220, others need upwards of 250). Going slow on the first layer and offsetting it very slightly, and finding the specific temps to use with the specific brand of filament is key.
Stringing seems unavoidable but for functional parts, not an issue. For cosmetic parts, PLA is probably a better choice.
It took a long time to get the temps and speeds dialled in. Couldn’t get the first layer to bond. Different PETG plastics behave very differently (some are ok at 220, others need upwards of 250). Going slow on the first layer and offsetting it very slightly, and finding the specific temps to use with the specific brand of filament is key.
Stringing seems unavoidable but for functional parts, not an issue. For cosmetic parts, PLA is probably a better choice.
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Agree, speaking from experience.
I just finished my 4th roll of Amazon basics PETG. For the price, you cannot beat the quality per $ ratio.
$22-23 is a great price for PETG - Black Amazon Basics PETG
$22-23 is a great price for PETG - Black Amazon Basics PETG
roytyson
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Do you print with 2.85mm?
caveduck
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Did a lot with Duramic PETG from Amazon (not quite the Amazon house brand) over the last month - had to do some adjusting of the Prusa MK3S settings. I finally found that the "Prusa PETG" preset is the best even for the generic stuff; I think that's down to the higher nozzle temps. I'm getting the best results at 240 -> 250. Also you need to turn on all of the slicing quality settings for best results with the overhangs. The "don't cross perimeters" setting is crucial.
For some bizarre reason the black PETG is notably more problematic and finicky compared to the red I have. No layer or base adhesion problems at the higher temps though, as long as you get the Z height dialed in. I also switched to a Micro Swiss steel 0.4 nozzle, though by itself that didn't make much difference vs the stock brass nozzle. You definitely want a silicone sock around the hot end to keep the stringies from accumulating on the metal. I also found it helpful if you have the E3D "Pro" version socks to cut out a little around the nozzle. I did have to clean the nozzle once too.
I made a low humidity storage chamber from a big Sterilite latching gasket bin, a couple of pounds of molecular sieve dessicant, and a cheap digital hygrometer from Amazon. Holds several spools of filament and keeps the humidity at about 11%.
For some bizarre reason the black PETG is notably more problematic and finicky compared to the red I have. No layer or base adhesion problems at the higher temps though, as long as you get the Z height dialed in. I also switched to a Micro Swiss steel 0.4 nozzle, though by itself that didn't make much difference vs the stock brass nozzle. You definitely want a silicone sock around the hot end to keep the stringies from accumulating on the metal. I also found it helpful if you have the E3D "Pro" version socks to cut out a little around the nozzle. I did have to clean the nozzle once too.
I made a low humidity storage chamber from a big Sterilite latching gasket bin, a couple of pounds of molecular sieve dessicant, and a cheap digital hygrometer from Amazon. Holds several spools of filament and keeps the humidity at about 11%.
I actually print with both. I have one 2.85mm setup. An ender that is converted. That link was an error. I must have been tired. I order it in a 5 pack or the orange. I may have order black also, but it appears they no longer sell it that way.
Amazon Basics 1.75 mm PETG in assorted colors (5 Rolls) for $92.99
Amazon Basics 1.75mm Orange
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