Anyone have experience with Aeropoxy ES6209??

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Well-Known Member
May 10, 2009
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Hi all. I currently use ES6279 for all of my builds. I love it, super strong and makes great fillets. Here is the issue I am having, it is too thick to pour. This makes is especially tough to make internal fillets when there is not a lot of room between the motor tube and airframe tube.

I am considering purchasing some ES6209 because it is much thinner, this would be used mostly for internal fillets only, all of the other structural components would be assembled with the ES6279. There is a substantially longer pot life and cure time, but that is no huge deal. Just can only do a fillet or two a night.

According to the strength specs is is stronger than the majority of the material that is used to construct these rockets so I would not imagine that would be a concern. Just trying to see if anyone has used it and what they have to say about it. I have heard it is about the thickness of honey so it certainly would pour, and if it is a little too thin milled glass or a similar filler could be added.


Also, for laminating Aeropoxy is the PR2032 with the PH3660 the way to go? This would be used for fiberglass/carbon fiber layup for fin to frame and/or fin to motor tube joints.

I also use the 6279 for most of my construction and have the same problem with it not being pourable. I've fooled with all sorts of thin dowels, straws, etc. to get it tight spaces - i.e. motor mounts. But it sure does stick stuff together well. It's come in handy around the house too for repairing difficult to bond materials.

I got some of the 6209 a little while ago - think it was from Giant Leap. It does have the consistency of honey and pours well. The cure time is quite a bit longer though. I was out of the 6279 at the time, so I added milled fibre to do the external fillets and that worked just fine. I also tried doing fillets without the fibre and the thinner viscosity wasn't a problem. Just used a couple chunks of tape at the ends of the fins to keep it in place until it set up a bit. It also wets out fibreglass and carbon cloth - not as easily as laminating epoxy - so you can reinforce joints that way too. I spread out the cloth on some paper and worked the epoxy in with a brush so I was sure it was well wetted before I stuck it to the pre wetted internal MMT/fin joints with a dowel. I wouldn't bother with the laminating epoxy...

You should definitely get some and give it a try.

I use a heat gun to get epoxies that are too thick to flow out a little. Be very careful so as not to overheat the epoxy and get it boiling. Use the low setting and whichever tip gets you into the area best. Use just enough heat to get it to flow where you want not get it watery and flow it around and pool. For external fillets, a little heat gives me fillets that need almost no finish sanding. I will also thin epoxies for non structural applications with a little acetone. Those Testors paint pipettes work great for adding just a couple of drops at a time. Thinned epoxy is great for filling plywood fin grain.
I know I will get responses about these practices deminishing the strength of the resin, but the key here is to use just enough heat to relax the epoxy. And for filling grain, strength is not an issue.

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