An Estes Solare Flare build mini-thread... Something to keep me sane

[Marc_G]

Thanks!

In some odd moments this week I was able to paint the nose cone black, and do the fades on the ring fins.



I just dialed the airbrush down to a thin mist and did it by hand without any rotating table. It came out pretty nice, and was easier than I anticipated. I guess I'm still use to rattle can fades where you have very little control.

I'm still touching up the black canard fins; pics this weekend when I get them done.

Marc

 

[bradycros]

I'll be looking forward to seeing the progress.

 

[mwtoelle]

I have one of those and I’ve launched it twice now, both times using a B6-0 booster and both times it left the rod rather anemically; looking as if it was barley making enough velocity to remain stable.

I did build the sustainer to utilize an 18mm motor instead of the 13mm but I can’t imagine* the small additional weight would be that critical.

Next time I’ll use a C6-0.



*This could just represent a failure of imagination on my part.

A stock Solar Flare is about one ounce heavier than the typical BT-50 two stage models that Estes has offered over the years. The Solar Flare weighs a little over 3 oz. whereas most of the other models of similar size have tended to weigh between 1 - 2 oz. Even a Big Bertha is lighter than the Solar Flare.

 

[Marc_G]

I definitely wouldn't use a C6-0, at least not until I was pretty sure my build was stable on a B6-0. Remember, the performance off the rod is a play between weight and initial thrust. The C6 initial thrust is similar to a B6, but of course the C weighs more than a B. So, the initial performance would be worse due to the added weight without any compensatory thrust increase. I've seen marginal B6 boosts cause real problems on C6 boosters, because instead of kicking out of the way quickly and igniting the sustainer, they lumber along with an extra second or so of relatively low thrust.

 

[bradycros]

I definitely wouldn't use a C6-0, at least not until I was pretty sure my build was stable on a B6-0. Remember, the performance off the rod is a play between weight and initial thrust. The C6 initial thrust is similar to a B6, but of course the C weighs more than a B. So, the initial performance would be worse due to the added weight without any compensatory thrust increase. I've seen marginal B6 boosts cause real problems on C6 boosters, because instead of kicking out of the way quickly and igniting the sustainer, they lumber along with an extra second or so of relatively low thrust.

Sounds like the voice of experiance is speaking, passing along good advice!

 

[Marc_G]

Yeah, I had a two stager scratch build of some sort... I think it was one of my variants on the Big Red Max theme (before I got into photographing and video taping everthing), and figured I could go B6-0 to B6-6. The bird was pretty heavy (didn't have a scale, back then) and lumbered off the pad on the B6-0 and staged not 20 feet up at a 30 degree angle from vertical. Recovered it, and decided to try again "on a more powerful C6-0" motor. This time it staged maybe 15 feet up, and did the HARM missile thing. Now, my launch point is top of a hill maybe 35 feet off the surrounding field, so the bird had time to enter coast phase before plowing into the grass. It came in nearly horizontally and the fin ripped through the sod (wet from previous night rain) for about 5 feet before it stopped. No damage to the rocket other than minor abrasions to the leading edge of the fin. But if it had headed south instead of north, it would have been headed toward people, and could have potentially harmed someone.

Lesson learned!

 

[Marc_G]

Hi folks,

I'm having really weird browser troubles today, which has slowed down my posting. I've put a thread in the feedback forum and may put one in the Watering Hole to see if anyone else is having similar troubles. See here, if interested:

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?44131-Suddenly-can-t-edit-posts

Anyway, the build is done other than clear coating.

I used trim Monokote on the inside of the ring fins. Taking care to understand the orientation of the fins and assigning one to the booster and one to the sustainer, I marked where on the inside of the ring fins I would need to leave uncovered for a glue bond to the fins. I put a thin coat of wood glue over these marked areas. Then, I made Trim Monokote rectangles of the proper size, just slightly wider than the 1" ring fin [so I didn't have to obsess over perfect placement]. Stuck 'em on, then trimmed the slight excess with a hobby knife:





In the second picture you can see the little bit of excess before I trimmed it.

Put the ring fins into place (still dry fit), and I then carefully applied glue by gently deforming the ring fin slightly, applying glue to the mating surface, then letting the double glue joint grab. I then made mini fillets. Here's a shot before doing the mini fillets:



A few of the monokote bits were cut a bit short, but I'll dab over any shortages with black paint on a fine brush.

 

[Marc_G]

Then I spent about 90 minutes very carefully applying the decals, which had previously (yesterday) gotten a misty coat of Valspar Clear Lacquer to help them be a bit tougher and easier to handle.

They went on just fine. Here's the "after" shot"



I'm very glad I took the extra time to put a black fade on the ring fins. I think it adds some character and makes for good contrast at the edges of the fins.

OK, that's it for today's build notes. I'm going to go troubleshoot my browser issue.

Marc

 

[sodmeister]

Marc ,that looks great ,nice work on the paint ,the black fade looks bloody awesome......nice touch old chum !!!!

You made that kit look like a real winner for Estes ,it should sell them a few ,I know it made me get one !

I sure am glad you did this build thread ,it`s going to help.

Take care

Paul T

 

[Sandy H.]

I also really think the fade adds character. I need to get a better handle on airbrushing, because that kind of detail seems simple, but very effective.

Sandy.

 

[Marc_G]

Thanks guys!

Next, I have to decide which clearcoating method to go with. I'm a little hesitant to hit it with Future directly, as sometimes I've had future slightly dissolve the acrylic paint, causing in this case say the black to run just a bit onto the yellow. However, if I use the airbrush and lay it on in a couple light coats, this would be unlikely to happen.

Alternatively, I've got Liquitex high gloss clear varnish. I'm leaning this way; it goes on nicely (again with the airbrush) and has never caused my finishes to bleed.

Or I could hit it with Valspar clear lacquer. The weather is a bit marginal for it, though, with highs in the 40s and some rain today and possibly tomorrow.

I'll sleep on it, as the decals need to dry anyway!

 

[pick1e]

Here's a link to one of the best online sources of Wicked colors and Auto-Air stuff.
https://www.tcpglobal.com/createx/wicked-colors.aspx

Hobby Lobby also has a bunch of them in the stores, but that's probably not helpful for you up there.

They are water based acrylics with some alcohols in the paint. As I learn to use them I'm getting more and more jazzed about them.

Marc

Cool rocket, and nice job on yours.

I've never seen gap staging from Estes before. Are the vent holes pre-drilled on this body tube?

I've been airbrushing with the Testors Model Master acrylics which are nice, but expensive. I like that they are non-toxic and water based for using indoors. I've seen the Createx line at HL but never tried them... They seem much more affordable but I don't like the idea of needing heat to cure the Airbrush Colors, and the Wicked Colors it seems are solvent based? Do you have a paint booth to use the Wicked Colors indoors? I'm afraid hitting balsa and cardboard with heat to set the Airbrush Colors would be bad news.

 

[bradycros]

Cool rocket, and nice job on yours.

I've never seen gap staging from Estes before. Are the vent holes pre-drilled on this body tube?

I've been airbrushing with the Testors Model Master acrylics which are nice, but expensive. I like that they are non-toxic and water based for using indoors. I've seen the Createx line at HL but never tried them... They seem much more affordable but I don't like the idea of needing heat to cure the Airbrush Colors, and the Wicked Colors it seems are solvent based? Do you have a paint booth to use the Wicked Colors indoors? I'm afraid hitting balsa and cardboard with heat to set the Airbrush Colors would be bad news.

I've used a hand held blow drier on my rockets to speed up the drying of white glue and Elmers Carpenters Wood Filler
many times. There have been absolutly no ill effects on the balsa, glue and card board using this heating method.

I can't see how using the same method on the air brush paint should cause any needless worry about damage. Just keep the blower moving around, don't hold it in any one spot for any period of time.

Try it, you'll like it!

 

[Marc_G]

Wicked Colors are mostly water based with a little solvent but nothing stinky. I spray in my basement and even my wife who is sensitive to stuff doesn't complain.

Also I have tried tests of heat cure versus no heat cure and found no difference in the final finish. I just let the paint dry a few more hours. If I'm in a rush to mask or something I use hair dryer on warm setting. Otherwise plain air drying is fine.

Hole in booster tube is pre drilled.

 

[Marc_G]

I decided to spray it with the Liquitex High Gloss Varnish. It's pretty thin and doesn't do a good job of self-leveling, so one has to be careful shooting it because you'll get drips and runs that won't go away on their own. And dabbing off drips with a paper towel is risky because it may leave "dab marks" due to weak self leveling. On the other hand, it doesn't cause funning of the colors at all.

I used about 35 lb pressure and the Paasche H3 tip. My first coat wasn't perfect, in that I laid it on just a bit too heavy, but a second coat the next day evened things out. I'm satisfied with how it came out.

 

[Marc_G]

The rocket weighs 98.6g (3.5 oz) fully finished and including parachute (but no engines or wadding). Facecard weight is 3.2 g so I'd say I'm pretty close on.

I used a bit of the rubber shock cord to secure the nose cone. I can pull the cone off and stretch the rubber to access the payload bay if I ever want to; in the meantime I'm not worried about losing the nosecone.

Can't wait to launch it. Maybe this weekend if the winds are light.

Marc

 

[foamy]

Another good looking rocket, Marc. Those decals and your fade on the rings really liven that one up! Nice job.

Looking forward to the film.

 

[bradycros]

Very well done! This sure was no Baby Bertha build.

 

[Marc_G]

This is definitely a nice kit design from Estes. I'm considering upscales and downscales now. The original is BT50 body tube (stages 18mm to 13mm engines). I'm thinking to take it down to BT20 for a 13mm to 13mm staging, and BT55 or 56 for a 24mm to 18 mm staging version. The only snag really is the ring fins, in that I don't have any big enough for the upscale. I might be able to use BT80 for the ringfin of the downscale. I'll do some measurements.

The "Solar Flare-up" upscale mentioned above in this thread is totally awesome and inspirational.

 

[sodmeister]

Very nice work Marc ,the fading gives it a very good look.You are getting good at using the old airbrush ,and you seem to have that brand of paint figured out.

I hope to get mine started one day ,but any painting will have to wait until spring......unfortunately ! Unless of course I get into the createx brand ,which I will check out over the holidays and break out the badger and booth and give it a whirl.of course you know ,I`m a die hard enamel/lacquer airbrush man myself ,but i think i can change for the sake of the hobby LOL


take care

paul T

 

[Scotty Dog]

Heres a thread I missed.
VERY NICE JOB!!!!! :clap:
Sharp looking rocket!

 

[Marc_G]

First flight was a success! Not much time to document it but here are pictures. There was safe recovery though I didn't get shots of it under chute because I was focusing on watching the booster landing spot so as not to lose it!

 

[Leo]

Cool

 

[bradycros]

The sequence of the photographs is excellent. I particularly like the 3rd photo of the staging event stopped dead in its tracks, you don't get to see that hardly ever.

Very cool!

 

[Marc_G]

Thanks guys!

I have decided my next build (besides an ill fated Cherokee D) will be some scales of the Solar Flare. I've got some time over thanksgiving to get started. First up will be a BT55 edition. Then BT20. Gonna have to put in an order with SEMROC for some clear payload tubes and such.

The decals are intricate... Sandman will hate me!

 

[pick1e]

Cool, really nice pics. I love the staging pic the best too.