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AMW RED FiberMAX™ Kit - with head end dual deploy

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rfjustin

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Starting to build an AMW RED FiberMAX™ Kit - with head end dual deploy for a recently retired friend.

Considering I have built nothing but head end dual deploy kits for the last couple years, this should not be a departure from a typical build. The kit was ordered complete with avionics bay plates and a switch band for head end dual deploy. The fins slots on the kit are not stellar and will need to be hand flied a bit. Not a huge deal, just needs a little finesse work on my part.

I started with the nose cone adding a 38mm fiberglass coupler bulkhead plate and scuffing the inside of the nose cone. Since this kit does not have a removable tip, gluing in something permanent (but light) was in order.

More to come…

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djs

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Justin- what are you doing with the clamps in the last picture? Attaching two pieces of bulkplate together?
 

rfjustin

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Justin- what are you doing with the clamps in the last picture? Attaching two pieces of bulkplate together?
Correct sir, gluing a 3/32" thick coupler bulkhead plate to an airframe bulkhead plate. I've always disliked this step, but its done... :)
 

Bat-mite

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Correct sir, gluing a 3/32" thick coupler bulkhead plate to an airframe bulkhead plate. I've always disliked this step, but its done... :)
Mine always come out crooked no matter how hard I try.
 

ECayemberg

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Starting to build an AMW RED FiberMAX™ Kit - with head end dual deploy for a recently retired friend.

Considering I have built nothing but head end dual deploy kits for the last couple years, this should not be a departure from a typical build. The kit was ordered complete with avionics bay plates and a switch band for head end dual deploy. The fins slots on the kit are not stellar and will need to be hand flied a bit. Not a huge deal, just needs a little finesse work on my part.

I started with the nose cone adding a 38mm fiberglass coupler bulkhead plate and scuffing the inside of the nose cone. Since this kit does not have a removable tip, gluing in something permanent (but light) was in order.

More to come…

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You know, I have two nosecones I'm working with right now that I was trying to determine how to anchor the cord since the tips are fixed. You rock, Juice!:cool:
 

ECayemberg

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Mine always come out crooked no matter how hard I try.
That's why Justin has that bolt through the center; keeps everything aligned just right! Works great unless your BP's don't have a center hole...
 

markkoelsch

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You know, I have two nosecones I'm working with right now that I was trying to determine how to anchor the cord since the tips are fixed. You rock, Juice!:cool:
I have one I was contemplating as well, and problem solved.
 

Bat-mite

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You know, I have two nosecones I'm working with right now that I was trying to determine how to anchor the cord since the tips are fixed. You rock, Juice!:cool:
FYI, on my Formula 75 HED, I simply epoxied the harness to the NC wall above the coupler. I did a swing test and it survived its first flight.
 

Nytrunner

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For your HED setups, where do your altimeter holes go? I've never felt quite comfortable with static ports so close to the front of a cylinder (rocket). Or do you use non barometric deployment methods?
 

jd2cylman

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For your HED setups, where do your altimeter holes go? I've never felt quite comfortable with static ports so close to the front of a cylinder (rocket). Or do you use non barometric deployment methods?
Mine are in a switch band just below the nose cone. My bands are usually 1" wide.
 

rfjustin

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For your HED setups, where do your altimeter holes go? I've never felt quite comfortable with static ports so close to the front of a cylinder (rocket). Or do you use non barometric deployment methods?
I have done (4) with switch bands, with great success and all altimeters used were baro only.

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timb

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Saw this kit being discussed in another thread and thought it might be a good level two project so I ordered one.

It's my first all fiberglass rocket and the reason I went with a kit. First problem I ran into was that the coupler only goes into the nose about 2-inches; I was sort of expecting it to be flat for about four inches with a shoulder. Was yours that way? How did you grind in a shoulder? My plan for the shock cord was to simply epoxy a loop of 1-inch tubular nylon as far in as I could comfortably reach.

My plan is to simply motor eject for the L2 cert and then use it to practice dual deploy.

Hat"s off to AMW - it was a joy doing business with them. Bet this will be a hot selling kit.
 

rfjustin

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Had some distractions come up, but back to this build. Working on the avionics bay plates, then onto fitting in nose cone and drill some holes. :)

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ksaves2

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Correct sir, gluing a 3/32" thick coupler bulkhead plate to an airframe bulkhead plate. I've always disliked this step, but its done... :)
As long as both pieces have a center hole, I use an eyebolt with fender washers on each side or an appropriate bolt. Slather the epoxy on both surfaces after appropriately roughing up with coarse grit paper. I finger tighten the screw and then put the assemblyon the end of the coupler/ebay tube to get the coupler BP and bodytube BP to line up as appropriate. I tighten the nut when they are aligned, remove from the coupler/ebay and add the clamps around the periphery as needed. Wipe off all the uncured epoxy right away from the areas where it isn't supposed to be and one will have perfect forward and aft bulkheads for the ebay/coupler. Works every time for me.
The metal ones that Curtis made (like I have with my unfinished Dominator 4) are really nice but costly. I think there are others who make them but laminated BP works fine. Kurt
 

Bat-mite

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That was my missing step, Kurt. I assumed that the 1/4" hole with a 1/4" bolt thru it would automatically line up the bulkheads. But I did not sit them in the coupler to force them to line up. So simple. Duh!
 

acalver

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We've got the same problem - is it possible to sand coupler down or is 2" enough for head end dual deployment?
 

jd2cylman

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Saw this kit being discussed in another thread and thought it might be a good level two project so I ordered one.

It's my first all fiberglass rocket and the reason I went with a kit. First problem I ran into was that the coupler only goes into the nose about 2-inches; I was sort of expecting it to be flat for about four inches with a shoulder. Was yours that way? How did you grind in a shoulder? My plan for the shock cord was to simply epoxy a loop of 1-inch tubular nylon as far in as I could comfortably reach.

My plan is to simply motor eject for the L2 cert and then use it to practice dual deploy.

Hat"s off to AMW - it was a joy doing business with them. Bet this will be a hot selling kit.
We've got the same problem - is it possible to sand coupler down or is 2" enough for head end dual deployment?
You should be OK, as long as you glue the switchband securely on to the coupler while making sure the forward bulkhead does not stick in the cone. I usually sand a taper to the top bulk plate and make sure the switchband keeps the bulk plate just short of seating into the cone. Then drill for shear pins.
 

rfjustin

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You should be OK, as long as you glue the switchband securely on to the coupler while making sure the forward bulkhead does not stick in the cone.
BINGO. The key is to make sure the nose cone is supported by the switch band and not "jammed" into the nose cone.

I have been very lax in updating this thread since my daughter was born in July. Will update the thread with some more pics tonight. I just got done gluing the switchband in place over the weekend. :)
 

markkoelsch

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BINGO. The key is to make sure the nose cone is supported by the switch band and not "jammed" into the nose cone.

I have been very lax in updating this thread since my daughter was born in July. Will update the thread with some more pics tonight. I just got done gluing the switchband in place over the weekend. :)
Justin, the daughter trumps a rocket my friend[emoji3]


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Bat-mite

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Paving the way for a future rocketeer is as much a contribution to the hobby as building and launching. :wink:
 

Bat-mite

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That's about how my Formula 75 is. Fortunately, the shear pins hold it in until the main charge separates it.
 

rfjustin

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Got some more work done including drilling shear pin holes and and index mark between the nose cone and switch band. Also cut the threaded rods to length, and a little palm sanding to help level high and low spots between the booster tube, switch band, and nose cone...

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Are the two larger holes on the edge of the switch band for indexing the alignment? Or switches?


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