Alternatives to Rocketpoxy?

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I read John Coker's epoxy test years ago and started using Aeropoxy ES6209. Simple 1:1 mixing, long working time, doesn't smell and easy to work with. Only downside is a long cure time, but the stuff is gruesomely strong--never seen anything stronger. I've used it on everything from mid-power LOC type kits to a 6" diameter/98mm MMT fiberglass rocket, and everything in between. I use a cheap scale from Amazon and mini Solo cups to mix in--never had a problem getting the mix right. I've tried other epoxies throughout the years but keep coming back to ES6209.

One thing not mentioned is economy in mixing. West Systems is great stuff, but I have seen too much waste with the pump system. Similar with Rocketpoxy, as it is harder to get just the right amount mixed without waste. Aeropoxy ES6209 is so easy to mix only the amount you need with very little waste. Over time I have learned just exactly how much epoxy I need for different tasks and my Aeropoxy lasts a lot longer than anything else.
 
Viperfixr said:
I read John Coker's epoxy test years ago and started using Aeropoxy ES6209. Simple 1:1 mixing, long working time, doesn't smell and easy to work with. Only downside is a long cure time, but the stuff is gruesomely strong--never seen anything stronger. I've used it on everything from mid-power LOC type kits to a 6" diameter/98mm MMT fiberglass rocket, and everything in between. I use a cheap scale from Amazon and mini Solo cups to mix in--never had a problem getting the mix right. I've tried other epoxies throughout the years but keep coming back to ES6209.

One thing not mentioned is economy in mixing. West Systems is great stuff, but I have seen too much waste with the pump system. Similar with Rocketpoxy, as it is harder to get just the right amount mixed without waste. Aeropoxy ES6209 is so easy to mix only the amount you need with very little waste. Over time I have learned just exactly how much epoxy I need for different tasks and my Aeropoxy lasts a lot longer than anything else.
Click to expand...


I'm confused. Rocketpoxy sounds EXACTLY like your ES6209. 1:1 mix, long work time, and doesn't smell (mostly; I'll admit if you don't use it fast enough, the hardener gets a bad funk/ammonia smell. But it goes away if you let it breathe for a few minutes before using). In fact, when new, I find the Rocketpoxy has a rather pleasant smell. And if you eyeball measure, you're gonna have waste no matter the brand. Now, I don't know how the two compare on price, but I get Rocketpoxy from Wildman, so I never have to pay for shipping... I've tried weighing the Rocketpoxy also. Haven't noticed any difference in performance and/or cure. To each his own...
Edit: Just looked using your Link. RP is $62.00ish. ES6209 is $60.00ish. So, pretty close.
 
jd2cylman said:
I'm confused. Rocketpoxy sounds EXACTLY like your ES6209. 1:1 mix, long work time, and doesn't smell (mostly; I'll admit if you don't use it fast enough, the hardener gets a bad funk/ammonia smell. But it goes away if you let it breathe for a few minutes before using).
Click to expand...

Rocketpoxy is more of a thick paste and is similar to Aeropoxy ES6279.
 
Bat-mite said:
I use RocketPoxy. I know how to mix it, how it performs, how much to use, how well it mixes with chopped CF, etc. I find a lot of merit in being consistent. and so far, I have not found a need to switch to anything else.
Click to expand...

This is the real takeaway! Whether it’s Aeropoxy (my choice for exactly the same reasons) or RocketPoxy, learn how to use it and it’ll serve you well. I also keep bottles of BSI 30 for quick repairs and squeeze tubes of JB Weld for retainers. I’m familiar with both of them and their limitations.
My personal favorite is Aeropoxy laminating epoxy. With the right fillers I can make it serve adequately in almost any role from retainers to potting to external fillets. The only thing I cannot do is make it reliably cure in 30 minutes. [emoji4]
 
Steve Shannon said:
My personal favorite is Aeropoxy laminating epoxy. With the right fillers I can make it serve adequately in almost any role from retainers to potting to external fillets. The only thing I cannot do is make it reliably cure in 30 minutes. [emoji4]
Click to expand...

Do what I have done (accidentally) all too often. Mix up ten times what you need via miscalculation. Can't unmix it, so wait for it to begin to kick, apply, throw away the rest. :D

Best -- Terry
 
For fillets I have been using rocket poxy. I never wait the 15 minutes. I put down blue painters tape alongside where the fillet goes, lay in the RP with a popsicle stick right after I mix it. I also put up blue tape dams at each end of the fillet so it doesn’t run. Wait 15 to 20 minutes then pull the tape off. Gives me very clean edges on the fillet. Give it an hour or so and then rotate the airframe and do the next set.
 
Bat-mite said:
You can get RocketPoxy for roughly $35 a quart. That's about $0.16 a fluid ounce. JB Weld is about $2.00 a fluid ounce. If you are building large, that's a huge cost difference. Not practical.
Click to expand...

If you buy JB Weld in the little bitty tubes from the big box stores, you're right, it can be cost-prohibitive esp. when used in large rockets. But in the industrial size (5 oz steel resin, 5 oz hardener, or 10 oz total) from zoro.com at $10.35, it's much more reasonable at $1.04 an ounce. Still not cheap, but approaching half what you might pay at the local hardware or auto parts store for the industrial size. And WAY less ounce-for-ounce than what the small tubes cost. In my opinion, the performance of JB Weld (slow curing variety ONLY) justifies the premium price.

Sure about your math? I assume you're calling a quart of Rocketpoxy the 1-pint hardener, 1-pint resin package. ($34.99 from Mad Cow, or $43.75 from Apogee as of this post)

$35 for 32 ounces = $1.09 an ounce. Slightly more expensive than industrial size JB Weld from Zoro, unless I'm missing something.

Good skies,
GlueckAuf

upload_2019-8-14_19-30-5.png
 
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SDramstad said:
For fillets I have been using rocket poxy. I never wait the 15 minutes. I put down blue painters tape alongside where the fillet goes, lay in the RP with a popsicle stick right after I mix it. I also put up blue tape dams at each end of the fillet so it doesn’t run. Wait 15 to 20 minutes then pull the tape off. Gives me very clean edges on the fillet. Give it an hour or so and then rotate the airframe and do the next set.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm doing now. Allows the epoxy to settle into the gap. I wait a little longer to pull tape.
 
GlueckAuf said:
If you buy JB Weld in the little bitty tubes from the big box stores, you're right, it can be cost-prohibitive esp. when used in large rockets. But in the industrial size (5 oz steel resin, 5 oz hardener, or 10 oz total) from zoro.com at $10.35, it's much more reasonable at $1.04 an ounce. Still not cheap, but approaching half what you might pay at the local hardware or auto parts store for the industrial size. And WAY less ounce-for-ounce than what the small tubes cost. In my opinion, the performance of JB Weld (slow curing variety ONLY) justifies the premium price.

Sure about your math? I assume you're calling a quart of Rocketpoxy the 1-pint hardener, 1-pint resin package. ($34.99 from Mad Cow, or $43.75 from Apogee as of this post)

$35 for 32 ounces = $1.09 an ounce. Slightly more expensive than industrial size JB Weld from Zoro, unless I'm missing something.

Good skies,
GlueckAuf

View attachment 390608
Click to expand...
You're right, man. I don't know where my brain was. How did I come up with $0.16? Only The Shadow knows. But are you sure the "ounces" referenced on the JB Weld are fluid ounces? I think that's a weight, not a volume. The HW store 2-tube JB Weld comes to about a 1/4 cup when squirted out, I think. So that's 4 fluid ounces, raising your unit cost to $2.59 per fluid ounce. I may be wrong about the exact volume, though.
 
Here's my 2%...
I use RocketPoxy for fillets, I weigh it out, mix it and apply right away.
I usually do 1 or 2 fins and then let it sit overnight.

I use the back end of a #2 (large) exacto handle to smooth the fillets,
that works up to 4" diameter BT size. (the largest I own..SO FAR..LOL)

I will if needed, dip it in alcohol to help smooth the fillet at first.

Then I will dip my finger in alcohol and smooth it out a bit more, and to blend the leading/trailing edge transition of the fin.

As far as "structural" glue-up, I always used to use the 5 minute Loctite......with the self mixing attachment.
It set up a little to fast for some applications....

But I finally bought some BSI 30 minute and took an empty 5 min Loctite syringe and cleaned it out by letting it soak in 90% rubbing alcohol and making sure it had no remaining residue from the Loctite.
"I've been "recycling" the mixing attachments with the alcohol for some time"

Anyway, I use the 30 minute BSI in the Loctite syringe for getting into tight spaces and internal fillets and such...

But yes, RocketPoxy is great for me for fillets....
 
RocketRoll said:
What are your recommendations for an alternative epoxy in lieu of Rocketpoxy? I've just been using all-purpose epoxies from Home Depot like those made by Loctite or J-B weld.
Click to expand...
Rocketpoxy hasn't been available for a while, thus your question. Ive been working with several epoxies and allthough not cheap 3M Scotch-weld Epoxy Adhesive DP110 has proven pretty handy for most Rocket applications. It has 10 minute work life, It says flexible Bonds, but its quite rígid, And has a Médium Viscosity. For filete i use for example normal marine epoxy mixed with graphite powder until consistency approval. Working on Rockets is one messy Job, you have epoxy going like everywhere, so also using like regular J-B Weld for attaching the fins and then fileting with i.e. Flex Glue also works great and is pretty manageable.

But a replacement for Rocketpoxy imposible. Too bad its not findable so for.
 
rmorales2169 said:
Rocketpoxy hasn't been available for a while, thus your question. Ive been working with several epoxies and allthough not cheap 3M Scotch-weld Epoxy Adhesive DP110 has proven pretty handy for most Rocket applications. It has 10 minute work life, It says flexible Bonds, but its quite rígid, And has a Médium Viscosity. For filete i use for example normal marine epoxy mixed with graphite powder until consistency approval. Working on Rockets is one messy Job, you have epoxy going like everywhere, so also using like regular J-B Weld for attaching the fins and then fileting with i.e. Flex Glue also works great and is pretty manageable.

But a replacement for Rocketpoxy imposible. Too bad its not findable so for.
Click to expand...
I just bought some a month or two ago. Rocketpoxy comes available in waves.
 
I know I'm going to regret posting to a glue thread but here it goes.

I've never really been a fan of Rocketpoxy and it's popularity absolutely baffles me. When I bought my first large LOC kit (Ultimate) I was advised by Apogee that I needed to use a "good epoxy" and Rocketpoxy was what they recommended.

Building the rocket was super easy and Rocketpoxy was easy to use. Problem was that it didn't really stick to anything. I had a hard landing on one of my flights and popped off two fins. After looking at the breaks I found that there was zero penetration into either material. The outer layer of the tube was removed and the fin was roughed up before assembly but it didn't matter. With a little wiggling and not a lot of force I was able to get the remaining 4 fins to come loose.

It really didn't take much to get the dried epoxy off the fins as it mostly just popped off like dried hardened caulk. I talked to Apogee and they told me that Rocketpoxy doesn't penetrate and it's designed to sit on top of the materials and hold them together. This just seems silly to me.

I started doing some homework and quickly found BSI and bought some 15 min. After cleaning up the attachment points I reattached the fins and did fillets, repainted etc. After that the rocket flew several more times until an ejection mishap caused the rocket to come in ballistic. The entire rocket was crushed up to the top of the motor tubes but the fins stayed attached :)

So, what's a good replacement for Rocketpoxy. In my mind, pretty much anything is better.
 
Last edited:
Back_at_it said:
I know I'm going to regret posting to a glue thread but here it goes.

I've never really been a fan of Rocketpoxy and it's popularity absolutely baffles me. When I bought my first large LOC kit (Ultimate) I was advised by Apogee that I needed to use a "good epoxy" and Rocketpoxy was what they recommended.

Building the rocket was super easy and Rocketpoxy was easy to use. Problem was that it didn't really stick to anything. I had a hard landing on one of my flights and popped off two fins. After looking at it breaks I found that there was zero penetration into either material. The outer layer of the tube was removed and the fin was roughed up before assembly but it didn't matter. With a little wiggling and not a lot of force I was able to get the remaining 4 fins to come loose.

It really didn't take much to get the dried epoxy off the fins as it mostly just popped off like dried hardened caulk. I talked to Apogee and they told me that Rocketpoxy doesn't penetrate and it's designed to sit on top of the materials and hold them together. This just seems silly to me.

I started doing some homework and quickly found BSI and bought some 15 min. After cleaning up the attachment points I reattached the fins and did fillets, repainted etc. After that the rocket flew several more times until an ejection mishap caused the rocket to come in ballistic. The entire rocket was crushed up to the top of the motor tubes but the fins stayed attached :)

So, what's a good replacement for Rocketpoxy. In my mind, pretty much anything is better.
Click to expand...
Well now this is a very accurate and interesting point of View regarding Rocketpoxy, and i also wonder how has it become so popular in the Rocket enthusisat world. I used it for the same (Fins) and had not notes this, for me it was like normal for a Fin to Fly off during flight. YEs its pretty maneagable and such but due to its lack of availability, well, one tríes other epoxies, putties and things like Flex glue. And i came to use the 3M 08115 Panel Bonfing Adhesive % the 3M Scotch-Weld Structural adhesive DP110Gray, both Epoxies and found some sort of miraculous experience. It does penetrate is very manageable, and gets pretty strong yet mantains a sort flexibilizó which enables it not to crack. Resides it comes in a Two tube Assembly which you attach to a sort of double barril Caulk aun and you can even attach at the output a mixer, which helps in no having to mix it and make a mess.

Ok so i go ahead and lay on the fins this word like thread of this epoxies and it attachés perfectly, then with gloves, and a finger i make the filets look perfectly.

So my first step is aligning, then applying dense, gap filling quick glue and playing the fin, then y apply this epoxies from 3M and had never had a Fin Fly off and thus becomeing a danger.

So i concurr in all you mention and just wanted to mention the excelent epoxy foe the fin subject and mostly all parts on a Rocket that need such.

Hope to be helpfull.

take Care all.
 
My experience with Rocketpoxy is that it is brittle. The only fin pops I've had on Fiberglass were with Rocketpoxy. The good news is that it was very easy to remove the residue, even though I scored the fins/body during construction.

I have had no issues with Scotch-weld, Hysol, West Systems, and even BSI.

Only issue is the West Systems (and to a smaller extent, BSI) needs some filler for appropriate viscosity for fillets. I have an unopened 1 qt Rocketpoxy kit that has sat on an air conditioned shelf for two years, because I had better adhesives to use.

Also, as epoxies go, Rocketpoxy is messier than average. It will wind up on your skin, in your hair, on your pants and shirt, and generally likes to be anywhere on a rocket but in a fillet (and for some reason the drips are more difficult to remove than a fillet). Best to have a roll of paper towels on hand, a jug of acetone, and gloves on when you use it.
 
Donnager said:
My experience with Rocketpoxy is that it is brittle. The only fin pops I've had on Fiberglass were with Rocketpoxy. The good news is that it was very easy to remove the residue, even though I scored the fins/body during construction.

I have had no issues with Scotch-weld, Hysol, West Systems, and even BSI.

Only issue is the West Systems (and to a smaller extent, BSI) needs some filler for appropriate viscosity for fillets. I have an unopened 1 qt Rocketpoxy kit that has sat on an air conditioned shelf for two years, because I had better adhesives to use.

Also, as epoxies go, Rocketpoxy is messier than average. It will wind up on your skin, in your hair, on your pants and shirt, and generally likes to be anywhere on a rocket but in a fillet (and for some reason the drips are more difficult to remove than a fillet). Best to have a roll of paper towels on hand, a jug of acetone, and gloves on when you use it.
Click to expand...
For me, the key to rocket poxy is to let it cure for 5-10 minutes before application.
 
Back_at_it said:
I know I'm going to regret posting to a glue thread but here it goes.

I've never really been a fan of Rocketpoxy and it's popularity absolutely baffles me. When I bought my first large LOC kit (Ultimate) I was advised by Apogee that I needed to use a "good epoxy" and Rocketpoxy was what they recommended.

Building the rocket was super easy and Rocketpoxy was easy to use. Problem was that it didn't really stick to anything. I had a hard landing on one of my flights and popped off two fins. After looking at the breaks I found that there was zero penetration into either material. The outer layer of the tube was removed and the fin was roughed up before assembly but it didn't matter. With a little wiggling and not a lot of force I was able to get the remaining 4 fins to come loose.

It really didn't take much to get the dried epoxy off the fins as it mostly just popped off like dried hardened caulk. I talked to Apogee and they told me that Rocketpoxy doesn't penetrate and it's designed to sit on top of the materials and hold them together. This just seems silly to me.

I started doing some homework and quickly found BSI and bought some 15 min. After cleaning up the attachment points I reattached the fins and did fillets, repainted etc. After that the rocket flew several more times until an ejection mishap caused the rocket to come in ballistic. The entire rocket was crushed up to the top of the motor tubes but the fins stayed attached :)

So, what's a good replacement for Rocketpoxy. In my mind, pretty much anything is better.
Click to expand...
I'm using JB Weld instead of Apogee's recommended Rocketpoxy because Rocketpoxy is not available
(there's no science behind my decision)
 
I'm just finishing a custom 4" Wildman AMRAAM. I used BSI on everything except for the exterior fillets where I used West six 10. Pricey but probably the best fillets I've ever done. The top of the fin transition wasnt the best so I had to go back and add some more six 10 to give me something to shape.

This was my first FG rocket so only time and hard flights will tell me if I did good.

On the BSI epoxy, do you guys weigh it or just dump and mix? Anyone know if there is a weight ratio?
 
jgarbus said:
On the BSI epoxy, do you guys weigh it or just dump and mix? Anyone know if there is a weight ratio?
Click to expand...
Dump and mix. Considering that the bottles are equal volume and equal weight, and it is a 1:1 mix, the weight ratio is obvious.
 

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