Are you going to put the canards on post-paint or did you just decide to bag them? They do factor into the front paint scheme if they are to be included.
Yeah, but I think your put it better. Maybe an oblique bicolor mask over the bottom part of the joint as well, sort of an inverse version on the tail maskBy which I suppose to mean that the nose cone joint coincides with a panel boundary in the multi-panel window?
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I do want to install canards but I have a problem.... The nose cone is a conical cone but has a straight "Body tube " section 2 to 3 inches long. The canard looks best when the front edge of the canard is even with the transition. But the canard is longer then the straight section on nose cone. So I would need to move the canard 2 to 3 inches down to the nosecone/bodytube joint or cut the canards in half and mount them in 2 pieces. 1 on the nosecone and one on the body tube. Still thinking about it.....Are you going to put the canards on post-paint or did you just decide to bag them? They do factor into the front paint scheme if they are to be included.
I have been thinking of something very similar to this.OK, now I'm just drawing stuff too.
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Ah, I see. If you want them to be there, then I'd just cut them and mount in two pieces. I don't see much downside there.I do want to install canards but I have a problem.... The nose cone is a conical cone but has a straight "Body tube " section 2 to 3 inches long. The canard looks best when the front edge of the canard is even with the transition. But the canard is longer then the straight section on nose cone. So I would need to move the canard 2 to 3 inches down to the nosecone/bodytube joint or cut the canards in half and mount them in 2 pieces. 1 on the nosecone and one on the body tube. Still thinking about it.....
1 on the nosecone and one on the body tube. Still thinking about it.....
Great idea! I like that.Carefully cut out a small triangle or trapezoid of body tube at the mouth, and glue that to the nose coupler. That way your nose will always be keyed to line up the canards.
Carefully cut out a small triangle or trapezoid of body tube at the mouth, and glue that to the nose coupler. That way your nose will always be keyed to line up the canards.
Thats why I hang out here. So many great ideas.That's a good idea. I was thinking just shear pins to hold the nose cone in place, but a small triangle makes it so much easier to put it in the right place. I might use this idea on some of my rockets.
Something similar to what’s in post 123. Will paint most of the nose red with silver “windows” and some black edging. Will try it anyway. Nice thing about paint. It sands off if you don’t like it.Alright, looks like it is so close to completion. Did you ever decide how you wanted to finish the front of the rocket?
@SDramstad Can you post a pic of the "table saw/jigsaw thing I bought at Menards "? Or a link to it on the Menards website?Next on the list of things to do are the canards. I cut the 2 out on a table saw/jigsaw thing I bought at Menards. Works really well on G10 with the carbide blade.
Next on the list of things to do are the canards.
Why not both?Is that a canard or a fiberglass falchion?
Is that a canard or a fiberglass falchion?
(So did I) ((He even spelled it right))Why not both?
(Yeah I had to look it up)
Yes, I can.@SDramstad Can you post a pic of the "table saw/jigsaw thing I bought at Menards "? Or a link to it on the Menards website?
Interesting tool. An upside down stationary jig saw. And it uses the Bosch style blades.Yes, I can.
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Picked this up at Menards a few years ago. Its like an upside down jig saw. The arm is removable if you are cutting something large.
I cut almost everything with it. Plywood and G10 for fins, even body tubes.Interesting tool. An upside down stationary jig saw. And it uses the Bosch style blades.
I have a Bosch jig saw and with the right blade it will cut anything, including stainless steel. I highly recommend Bosch blades.I cut almost everything with it. Plywood and G10 for fins, even body tubes.
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