Alcubierre Build Thread

Discussion in 'Scratch Built' started by neil_w, Sep 27, 2018.

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  1. Nov 7, 2018 #181

    neil_w

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    OK, this came out pretty good. Have I mentioned how much I love the metallic paints?
    Silvernose-1.jpg
    Silvernose-2.jpg

    The mask line came out shockingly clean, and the silver looks fantastic with the cranberry. I might have gone a bit heavy with it, because there's more of a paint dam than I expected. Gonna have to figure out how to rub that down a bit without actually *sanding*. Anyone have any suggestions?

    While pulling the masking tape off, I didn't get the most encouraging feeling about whether the silver paint would work well as decal paint. Too much flex and the paint disintegrated into metal dust. So I think that before I silver the rest of the rocket, I'm going to experiment with a piece of decal paper and the silver paint, and see if it, you know, actually works. If not, I can still mask the whole paint job (although not that little nose panel, although it may not be necessary anyway.
     
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  2. Nov 7, 2018 #182

    Gary Byrum

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    If you wet sand the paint dam with something like 1500 - 1800 grit, you can use some 2000 grit to buff it out. Those grits might be over kill protection because I can't remember what grit I used to do that last time. I know I did use the 2000 grit as a final though.
     
  3. Nov 7, 2018 #183

    neil_w

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    When I've tried 1500 grit, it has dulled gloss paint pretty significantly. Will 2000 grit actually leave a glossy finish?
     
  4. Nov 7, 2018 #184

    Gary Byrum

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    Those really fine grits will smooth out the dam. The 2000 should buff it out. Give it a shot on something in your boneyard. Surely you have some old fins to practice on. Wet sand all these steps.
     
  5. Nov 7, 2018 #185

    Amsterdam

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    I’d just leave it

    Or maybe start the nosecone over?

    Or prepare yourself for this level of polishing

    Then again maybe there’s something I’m missing? I’m assuming that any grit that can take the dam down will dull the surface
     
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  6. Nov 7, 2018 #186

    Gary Byrum

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    You are. 2000 is a polishing grit.
     
  7. Nov 7, 2018 #187

    neil_w

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    Would it help to run a blade lightly along the mask line before removing the tape? I'm thinking that it would encourage the higher part of the paint dam to come with the tape rather than stay on the model. That's really my issue here; I'm use to an edge where the top coat is thicker than the base coat, but the way the edge of the silver is raised up is a little different than I am used to.
     
  8. Nov 7, 2018 #188

    Gary Byrum

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    Paint dams aren't really that huge. In most cases nothing more than a hair line. About the only time I've ever used a knife on masking is in the root edge of a fin. I've never tried what you're suggesting.
     
  9. Nov 7, 2018 #189

    neil_w

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    That's what I usually find, but the silver metallic seemed to behave a little differently from normal gloss paints when I pulled the tape. I'll see if I can get a good macro shot of the paint dams.

    It's not a big deal in any case.
     
  10. Nov 7, 2018 #190

    Gary Byrum

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    Just remember that silvers are usually softer than most paints.
     
  11. Nov 7, 2018 #191

    GlenP

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    You might test on a scrap part first, but try some 0000 Steel Wool. But anything that removes material is going to dull a little, and anything that doesn't dull won't remove material. Catch-22.

    Maybe baking soda and an electric toothbrush? Makes your teeth look shiny.
     
  12. Nov 7, 2018 #192

    kuririn

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    Automotive polishing compound then wax polish? Test on scrap first. Personally, I would leave it as is. Looks pretty good.
     
  13. Nov 7, 2018 #193

    neil_w

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    Tweaked.
    upload_2018-11-7_16-17-39.png
     
  14. Nov 7, 2018 #194

    Nytrunner

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    I think I liked the chevrons better than the boomerangs, but I'm no deciding factor lol
     
  15. Nov 7, 2018 #195

    Gary Byrum

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    Either-or here. Still look like louvers....of a sort.
     
  16. Nov 7, 2018 #196

    neil_w

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    Yeah, they are louver-ish.

    I thought the boomerangs were a bit more consistent with the rest of the design than the chevrons. Still fiddling though.
     
  17. Nov 8, 2018 at 8:33 PM #197

    Rockyt

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    I dunno...I prefer the Boomerangs. I also think it's easier to tie in the 'nose decal' that way too...
     
  18. Nov 8, 2018 at 9:47 PM #198

    GlenP

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    The Alcubierre warp drive compresses space in front and expands space behind it, making the vehicle surf a gravity-like wave in space.

    The boomerangs would look cool if they start out large and each one gets a little bit smaller...kind of like the compressed space, makes a visual transition from the large ring fin to the nose cone, try out something like that and see if you like the vibe of that.
     
  19. Nov 8, 2018 at 11:37 PM #199

    snrkl

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    Hehe. Or it could look like the fastest wifi hotspot in space...

    IMG_0510.jpg
     
  20. Nov 9, 2018 at 6:31 AM #200

    GlenP

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    the little boomerangs are already very reminiscent of the warp-field shape, but could be rounded off a little and shaped a more like the crescent-moon compression field shape in the theoretical warp field diagrams:

    https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Alcubierre-warp-drive-metric_fig3_223130116

    start out more thick and round near the ring, and gradually morph into narrow and pointy as you go towards the cone. Gives you the sense of a stretching in time and space... I think you can come up with something along those lines (or curves as the case may be). I won't sketch it myself, I think you have it in yourself to take this idea and run with it or leave it as you see fit. The rocket is really quite cool as it is now as well as in several of its previous iterations, just happy to pitch an idea out there once in a while for inspiration.
     
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  21. Nov 9, 2018 at 10:41 PM #201

    neil_w

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    I have to be careful because whatever silver decorations are used will have to be hand-cut or hand-masked. Except in special cases (like maybe the single nose shield), that precludes overly complicated or precise cuts. I think I could handle the boomerangs or the chevrons, but I'm reluctant to go much further. But as always I will keep fiddling.
     
  22. Nov 11, 2018 at 5:21 AM #202

    BABAR

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    These might be good candidates for painting your color on adhesive backed paper silver and cut out the shapes and attach.
    Maybe use a black marker to darken the white edge of the paper at the cut edge so it won’t show up?
     
  23. Nov 11, 2018 at 8:07 AM #203

    GlenP

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    or paint on waterslide decal paper, that would be fairly thin.
     
  24. Nov 11, 2018 at 4:34 PM #204

    neil_w

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    Painted waterslide paper is the plan. Painted labels would work, but I like the ability to adjust positioning of waterslides vs. need to get label paper exactly right on the first try. The metallic paint does not take kindly to sharp flexing that would be required to reposition a label.
     
  25. Nov 11, 2018 at 6:57 PM #205

    BABAR

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    Have you painted your rocket body yet? Thinking outside the box what if you painted your rocket body silver or at least the places that you need the silver to be silver. Cut out adhesive back papers in the shape of your chevron's and boomerangs and stuff and put that on recoat with silver over those areas then paint with your cranberry color and after it's all done remove the decals to expose the silver underneath?
     
  26. Nov 11, 2018 at 7:54 PM #206

    neil_w

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    That would just be paint a silver base coat and then masking the silver areas, and then top-coating with cranberry, would it not? Similar effort, just different order, in case I'm missing something.

    In any case, I prefer the base coat to be the gloss paint (rather than the metallic), although I don't actually know if that makes a difference.

    In any case it's all moot because the body is already painted cranberry. Silver's going on top whether we like it or not. :)
     
  27. Nov 11, 2018 at 9:55 PM #207

    Nytrunner

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    I forget where I heard it, but I do believe metallics and neons make poor base coats.
     
  28. Nov 11, 2018 at 11:38 PM #208

    neil_w

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    Black metallic worked fine as a base coat on the Diamond Cutter but that doesn't mean it's optimal.

    In any case, silver on top it is. Next opportunity I'm going to silver-spray some decal paper and see how that works.
     
  29. Nov 12, 2018 at 12:52 AM #209

    GlenP

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    The other metallic option for complex shapes and trims is Monocote (heat applied), or Trim Monocote (peel and stick), but might not be able to color match the existing portions.

    The painted waterslide decal is a good option to match the parts you have already painted.
     

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