Alcubierre Build Thread

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OK, this came out pretty good. Have I mentioned how much I love the metallic paints?
Silvernose-1.jpg
Silvernose-2.jpg

The mask line came out shockingly clean, and the silver looks fantastic with the cranberry. I might have gone a bit heavy with it, because there's more of a paint dam than I expected. Gonna have to figure out how to rub that down a bit without actually *sanding*. Anyone have any suggestions?

While pulling the masking tape off, I didn't get the most encouraging feeling about whether the silver paint would work well as decal paint. Too much flex and the paint disintegrated into metal dust. So I think that before I silver the rest of the rocket, I'm going to experiment with a piece of decal paper and the silver paint, and see if it, you know, actually works. If not, I can still mask the whole paint job (although not that little nose panel, although it may not be necessary anyway.
 
If you wet sand the paint dam with something like 1500 - 1800 grit, you can use some 2000 grit to buff it out. Those grits might be over kill protection because I can't remember what grit I used to do that last time. I know I did use the 2000 grit as a final though.
 
Those really fine grits will smooth out the dam. The 2000 should buff it out. Give it a shot on something in your boneyard. Surely you have some old fins to practice on. Wet sand all these steps.
 
I’d just leave it

Or maybe start the nosecone over?

Or prepare yourself for this level of polishing

Then again maybe there’s something I’m missing? I’m assuming that any grit that can take the dam down will dull the surface
 
Would it help to run a blade lightly along the mask line before removing the tape? I'm thinking that it would encourage the higher part of the paint dam to come with the tape rather than stay on the model. That's really my issue here; I'm use to an edge where the top coat is thicker than the base coat, but the way the edge of the silver is raised up is a little different than I am used to.
 
Paint dams aren't really that huge. In most cases nothing more than a hair line. About the only time I've ever used a knife on masking is in the root edge of a fin. I've never tried what you're suggesting.
 
Paint dams aren't really that huge. In most cases nothing more than a hair line.
That's what I usually find, but the silver metallic seemed to behave a little differently from normal gloss paints when I pulled the tape. I'll see if I can get a good macro shot of the paint dams.

It's not a big deal in any case.
 
You might test on a scrap part first, but try some 0000 Steel Wool. But anything that removes material is going to dull a little, and anything that doesn't dull won't remove material. Catch-22.

Maybe baking soda and an electric toothbrush? Makes your teeth look shiny.
 
Yeah, they are louver-ish.

I thought the boomerangs were a bit more consistent with the rest of the design than the chevrons. Still fiddling though.
 
I dunno...I prefer the Boomerangs. I also think it's easier to tie in the 'nose decal' that way too...
 
The Alcubierre warp drive compresses space in front and expands space behind it, making the vehicle surf a gravity-like wave in space.

The boomerangs would look cool if they start out large and each one gets a little bit smaller...kind of like the compressed space, makes a visual transition from the large ring fin to the nose cone, try out something like that and see if you like the vibe of that.
 
The Alcubierre warp drive compresses space in front and expands space behind it, making the vehicle surf a gravity-like wave in space.

The boomerangs would look cool if they start out large and each one gets a little bit smaller...kind of like the compressed space, makes a visual transition from the large ring fin to the nose cone, try out something like that and see if you like the vibe of that.

Hehe. Or it could look like the fastest wifi hotspot in space... [emoji12]

IMG_0510.jpg
 
the little boomerangs are already very reminiscent of the warp-field shape, but could be rounded off a little and shaped a more like the crescent-moon compression field shape in the theoretical warp field diagrams:

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Alcubierre-warp-drive-metric_fig3_223130116

start out more thick and round near the ring, and gradually morph into narrow and pointy as you go towards the cone. Gives you the sense of a stretching in time and space... I think you can come up with something along those lines (or curves as the case may be). I won't sketch it myself, I think you have it in yourself to take this idea and run with it or leave it as you see fit. The rocket is really quite cool as it is now as well as in several of its previous iterations, just happy to pitch an idea out there once in a while for inspiration.
 
I have to be careful because whatever silver decorations are used will have to be hand-cut or hand-masked. Except in special cases (like maybe the single nose shield), that precludes overly complicated or precise cuts. I think I could handle the boomerangs or the chevrons, but I'm reluctant to go much further. But as always I will keep fiddling.
 
These might be good candidates for painting your color on adhesive backed paper silver and cut out the shapes and attach.
Maybe use a black marker to darken the white edge of the paper at the cut edge so it won’t show up?
 
or paint on waterslide decal paper, that would be fairly thin.
 
Painted waterslide paper is the plan. Painted labels would work, but I like the ability to adjust positioning of waterslides vs. need to get label paper exactly right on the first try. The metallic paint does not take kindly to sharp flexing that would be required to reposition a label.
 
Have you painted your rocket body yet? Thinking outside the box what if you painted your rocket body silver or at least the places that you need the silver to be silver. Cut out adhesive back papers in the shape of your chevron's and boomerangs and stuff and put that on recoat with silver over those areas then paint with your cranberry color and after it's all done remove the decals to expose the silver underneath?
 
That would just be paint a silver base coat and then masking the silver areas, and then top-coating with cranberry, would it not? Similar effort, just different order, in case I'm missing something.

In any case, I prefer the base coat to be the gloss paint (rather than the metallic), although I don't actually know if that makes a difference.

In any case it's all moot because the body is already painted cranberry. Silver's going on top whether we like it or not. :)
 
Black metallic worked fine as a base coat on the Diamond Cutter but that doesn't mean it's optimal.

In any case, silver on top it is. Next opportunity I'm going to silver-spray some decal paper and see how that works.
 
The other metallic option for complex shapes and trims is Monocote (heat applied), or Trim Monocote (peel and stick), but might not be able to color match the existing portions.

The painted waterslide decal is a good option to match the parts you have already painted.
 
>Bump< Just making sure this thread stays up top, so we can see it finished and in action ;)
 
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