Airbrush vs. Rattlecans

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icyclops

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Paints may or may not be compatible with each other. For example, you can spray enamel on top of lacquer but not lacquer on top of enamel (it will krinkle, as you say). The easiest solution is to stick with the same brand and type of paint for all layers and follow their directions.
There are a lot of reasons why paint crackles besides incompatibility, curing, layer thickness, atmospheric conditions, etc.....I just find that a lot less issues happen when using the control of the airbrush....vs thick layer paint cans. The key here is being able to mix your paint without all the other crap they put in the paint cans for propellant, leveling, and inhibitors. There is no way to control using cans what will happen even if you use the same brand.....especially with top coats. Buy an airbrush, learn how to use it and be happy. :)
 

DragonRocketry

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Okay for those using Createx. Are you still using rattle can primer? What are you using for a clear coat? I am talking for rockets bigger than estes stuff.
 

Budro0

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Okay for those using Createx. Are you still using rattle can primer? What are you using for a clear coat? I am talking for rockets bigger than estes stuff.
I use a Duplicolor filler or filler/primer as my base, then use Createx sealer for the "primer." I generally get a nice smooth finish like that. Topcoat is generally a Rusto acrylic clear (found at Ace, but it is an auto product). So far it's been good, but it is super easy get way too much on and get drips and runs. I am in the market for a UV-stable clear I can spray through a gun, so I'm interested in what everyone else uses.
 

Philip Tiberius D.

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My setup is a PASCHE double action airbrush VL-series. I have nosetips 1 through 4...#1 being able to spray a fine line to #4 being able to wide spray color base coats and primer. Any compressor would work that is able to output 40 - 80 psi. You will mostly use between 20 - 30 psi for most coating, but there are times when you need higher pressure for some clear coats and primers. Most of the time you will probably be spraying in a garage or into a spray box....but if you don’t like noise than try to get the quietest compressor you can afford. I have a Pasche compressor with a small tank so it isn’t constantly running....shuts off when 1 gal tank is full.

I use mainly testors enamel paints, some lacquers and rarely acrylics as they are prone to easy damage. Make sure you get a double action airbrush and practice....you will be much happier than a single action which I think are a pain once you get the hang of it.

the real deal on wether or not to invest in airbrush equipment has to do with how you want to paint your rockets. If you mainly just paint large color areas then using an airbrush may be unnecessary And paint cans will work just fine applying multiple light coats. If you like to paint fine detail and do smooth gradients and transitions, plus heavily control the amount of paint you can apply at once. Or mix custom colors is another plus of airbrushing.
Does the VL have tips wider than #4? Was going to check their website but don’t know which one you actually have.
 

DES

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Okay for those using Createx. Are you still using rattle can primer? What are you using for a clear coat? I am talking for rockets bigger than estes stuff.
Rustoleum lacquer based automotive primer for base / sanding sealer;

Createx Autoborne sealer for primer / ground color;

Createx UVLS gloss for clear coat. Adheres to anything. Quite clear, but not exactly sparkling. I've been meaning to get to an auto paint shop to see what I can find in the way of a 2K clear coat in a spray can. Something like the SprayMax 2K Glamour, but I cannot get that shipped to Alaska at a reasonable price. Something about explosive, flammable and toxic in a pressurized package.
 

icyclops

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According to the Paasche website, they sell a #1, #3, and a #5. I just ordered the VLS set a week ago and have been doing a lot of research on the airbrush.
good to know, thanks....the biggest tip i have is a #4 which works pretty well for putting down a reasonable amount of paint coverage (2-3 inches wide). I pull all the way back on the double action trigger and it puts out enough controllable paint to put on a smooth light coat....as that is what you want, smooth light coats. Dries quicker and smoother with less texture issues That way.

A #5 would work well too especially for coverage of bigger rockets....you may have to increase the psi a bit more to push more paint. The VL airbrush feels a little bigger than the Iwata, but it is what you get use too and I prefer the bigger fit in my hand. My recommendation is to pick a brand and stay with it (some parts are interchangeable between different brushes), but I like Paasche as I have had mine since 1978 and have only had to replace a few bent spray tips....no internal problems at all...knock on wood.

So you see, I purchased my tips ages ago.....when they sold sizes in #1, #2, #3, #4 and #5....guess that is no more :)
So my knowledge about available needle sizes is outdated no doubt. I don’t think they even carry the rotary brush anymore either.
 
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vdotmatrix

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If I understand, the wrinkles were at the fin to body tube area, ie the fillets? Can you post a photo? Some of the acrylics do not stick particularly well to glue, glassine, etc. The first coat goes on fine, but the solvent in the second coat will soften and swell the first coat a bit, and it wrinkles off anything it is not completely adhered to. Woodworkers will actually do this on purpose for a "crackle finish". Recommend a lacquer based primer, even for the so called self-priming products.
I think I always give it a primer coat before shooting acrylics!
 

vdotmatrix

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Okay for those using Createx. Are you still using rattle can primer? What are you using for a clear coat? I am talking for rockets bigger than estes stuff.
yes. Future + Simple Green> diluted!
 
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