rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Uhh, NO! Forward Closure should always be fully seated, at least that what I have always been told.You could also leave an equal gap on both ends.
Uhh, NO! Forward Closure should always be fully seated, at least that what I have always been told.You could also leave an equal gap on both ends.
Yes. We are cutting liners just a bit longer on 54, 75 & 98mm because it is always better for the liner to be slightly too long than too short.I just assembled my first 75mm motor, a L1390, and I am using a 75/5120 case with the adapter kit since I don’t have a 3840 case yet. When I screwed the fwd closure ring on, I get about a 1/8 gap between the case and the closure. Is this normal? Is it ok to fly as is?
View attachment 535303
It will be a full ‘E’ and in the same case as the F52C. In fact all three Enerjet classics (E24C, F52C and F67C) will be in the same case.@AeroTech Any details that can be shared about some supposed E24 Enerjet as noted in this thread?
Good to know for future reference!Yes. We are cutting liners just a bit longer on 54, 75 & 98mm because it is always better for the liner to be slightly too long than too short.
It will be a full ‘E’ and in the same case as the F52C. In fact all three Enerjet classics (E24C, F52C and F67C) will be in the same case.
It will be a full ‘E’ and in the same case as the F52C. In fact all three Enerjet classics (E24C, F52C and F67C) will be in the same case.
You are not planning to change or discontinue the current Aerotech F67 White Lightning Economax 29 mm - Single Use motors, are you?
That is one of my top "go-to" motors for getting larger MPRs going on small fields. We'll just have 2 "F67" the F67-xW and F67-xC...
Excellent!It will be a full ‘E’ and in the same case as the F52C. In fact all three Enerjet classics (E24C, F52C and F67C) will be in the same case.
Another 29mm E will certainly be nice, especially if it’s both single-use and hazmat-free. A unique combo, to be sure.It will be a full ‘E’ and in the same case as the F52C. In fact all three Enerjet classics (E24C, F52C and F67C) will be in the same case.
Look into the G104T. Its only 90ns so its barely a G motor but its got a LOT of grunt....
G138T is also great. It might be too punchy for you but again, its not a full G ...
You can do RMS ahead of time too. I almost never assemble motors in the field.G104s & G138s ARE FUN MOTORS. I have seen some fly... But 2 issues: 1) The local field we do the most flying at has an 80N thrust limit. So they are out. 2) Flying with 3 young kids means RMS motos are out... too many distractions for me to feel confident putting that many bits-n-pieces together at this point. (DMS motors ok, LMS I can build ahead maybe, Cesaroni maybe, but Aerotech RMS will wait till kids are older.)
You can do RMS ahead of time too. I almost never assemble motors in the field.
You do you, but just saying.
Same. I build all of mine ahead of time.You can do RMS ahead of time too. I almost never assemble motors in the field.
You do you, but just saying.
I build all of mine ahead of time.
Is igniter installation straightforward?
RMS 29/40-120 is the same. The slot in the grain isn’t aligned with the nozzle. E and F reloads require tape over the end of the grain to place the igniter correctly too, and it’s easy to push it off if you can’t see what you’re doing.I try to build as many of my RMS motors as I can ahead of time. Igniters (with a few exceptions) are the same as with SU composite motors; you install the igniters at the pad. One of the few exceptions I've run into is the 38/120 G69-N. The instructions say to install the igniter against the grain as you are assembling the motor. It is a composite end-burning motor.
FWIW, the 24/40 is the same way but I haven't had many problems installing at the pad, you just have to fish around a little to find the slot.RMS 29/40-120 is the same. The slot in the grain isn’t aligned with the nozzle. E and F reloads require tape over the end of the grain to place the igniter correctly too, and it’s easy to push it off if you can’t see what you’re doing.
Do it before you close up the motorIs igniter installation straightforward?
Is igniter installation straightforward?
Do it before you close up the motor
RE: AT J615 aero spike motor.
What I’ve heard is that the aft closure and nozzle must be removed at the pad and the lighter installed, then the aft closure/nozzle reinstalled. Several were flown at AirFest, but I never got close enough to see the pad prep/launch.
Check with the RSO of the club you are flying with beforehand on that clubs procedure for dealing with the J615, so far I have only seen 1 aerospike motor flown and we chose to let the flier install it in an area inside the range but away from spectators, then move the rocket to the pad and then install the motor on the pad.Then don't tighten up the aft closure until it's at the pad and you install the igniter...
I changed my L2 plan from J350 to J615, and am just thinking ahead.
Check with the RSO of the club you are flying with beforehand on that clubs procedure for dealing with the J615, so far I have only seen 1 aerospike motor flown and we chose to let the flier install it in an area inside the range but away from spectators, then move the rocket to the pad and then install the motor on the pad.
Closing the loop on this issue. Karl from Aerotech called me back and suggested that I push the nozzle a little further in when building the motor and try to get some epoxy around the base of the nozzle. Unfortunately, I had just glued everything together earlier that day, so I wasn't able to do that. However, the nozzle was set solidly and everything glued up nicely so Karl said I was almost certainly OK. On launch day, it worked just fine.Yesterday, I was using a skeleton of a 75mm DMS casing (no fuel grains, forward closure taped on) to block the motor mount in an ejection charge test. The charge was a little over enthusiastic and used the nozzle about a inch into the casing. I was able to push it back from the forward side and there’s no visible damage to the nozzle, liner, or closure. Is there anything else I should check before gluing everything up?
E24-4, 7 & 10Another 29mm E will certainly be nice, especially if it’s both single-use and hazmat-free. A unique combo, to be sure.
Are the delay times decided for these other Classic motors?
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