Aerotech nose cone repair or replace

[Rawcat]

Any suggestions on how I can fix this Aerotech Initiator nose cone? I was very disappointed to see this huge gash in the kit I just opened. It appears as though the Mantis legs gouged it because the box itself is perfect. It is too deep to sand out. I use wood filler on spirals for other projects but I am not sure how it will work with plastic. My first G motor capable rocket is off to a rough start. Thanks in advance.

 

[smugglervt]

I've used Elmer's wood filler on plastic nose cones without any problems.

 

[Rawcat]

That is reassuring. That is exactly what I use on spirals. I almost stroked out when I saw this, I was already hating myself for what I spent on it.

 

[Banzai88]

I would scuff it pretty good and use some epoxy putty. Sand and blend it after it cures. It'll be fine, happens all the time.

Heck, you could use some plain ole' epoxy if that's all you have, as long as you surface prep right and wait for it to cure really well before sanding.

 

[Rawcat]

Banzai, do you have a preferred brand of epoxy putty?

Please forgive me, I am pretty green. I didn't think I was new to model rocketry, after building a few Estes kits every year. for the last 25 years. Then I started poking around this forum and sites affiliated with NAR and learned that I know nothing.

 

[Banzai88]

Banzai, do you have a preferred brand of epoxy putty?

Please forgive me, I am pretty green. I didn't think I was new to model rocketry, after building a few Estes kits every year. for the last 25 years. Then I started poking around this forum and sites affiliated with NAR and learned that I know nothing.

Pretty much any will do for something like this. WalMart is your friend, no need to pay rocket prices. The 'green stuff' blue/yellow ribbon stuff will work, too. The Fix It putty that Apogee sells is fairly priced and works well, too.

I don't like it for fillets, although some do. Every fillet I've ever done with the stuff has cracked, but it's great for airframe and surface repair.

 

[Rawcat]

Irony, I just ordered an Aspire from Apogee it should be here tomorrow. I literally had Fix It in my cart and took it out before confirming my order.

 

[Q-Aero]

Your problem is not uncommon to plastic cone, I like to use Bondo, the one with the hardener separated if it's deep, and after the primer is apply, I use the finishing one if needed, of course it's always needed, lol

. I wonder if the Testor plastic putty filler work well ?

 

[Rawcat]

I just ordered the Fix It, lol.

 

[Woody's Workshop]

I ordered Tamiya White Putty to fix the tail cone on my V2. Stuck like mad, easy to sand. Dust doesn't stick to every thing like the automotive red lacquer putty.
I ordered the Basic Gray Putty to, but yet to try it. I like the White for any nose cone seam fixes. Feathers out great too. Just have to keep the 220 grit clean, I use a cheap chip brush and it brushes the dust right out of the sand paper.

 

[terryg]

Did you buy this new from a retailer? If so it should be covered under warranty. I would explore this option first. Inadequate manufacturer packaging should be covered.

 

[Rawcat]

Did you buy this new from a retailer? If so it should be covered under warranty. I would explore this option first. Inadequate manufacturer packaging should be covered.

No, I ordered it through Amazon. It came from some auction company. It is an older Inititiator, it has the engine hook not the retainer.

 

[Trident]

I often use Bondo Glazing Putty to fill nicks or even seams if they are too deep to fill with repeated cycles of filling and sanding. Last time I bought it, I found it in Walmart automotive department, but any auto supply store would have it. Squadron Putty from hobby stores works well, but the Bondo is a huge tube and more reasonably priced.

Rough up the plastic and prime it good first, then apply the putty. Wait 24 hrs., then sand smooth. Apply primer over it to seal and cover the reddish color.

 

[ksaves2]

Irony, I just ordered an Aspire from Apogee it should be here tomorrow. I literally had Fix It in my cart and took it out before confirming my order.

Remember with an Aspire, if you put a G80 or an F10-8 in it, it's a truly fire and forget rocket. There's a strong chance you can forget it as it will disappear with those motors and likely will never be seen of again.

That said, I did get blindly lucky on a well battered Aspire when it was returned on it's first launch (a G80) 4 days later, found by another flier, and it came down within sight on a local field after another G80 and three F10's. I used a very loooooooooonnnnnnnngggg metallic streamer that maximized the visual effect from 4 to 5k. I did fire several smaller motors through it so it had flights that were minimally out of sight and lost it on its fourth F10-8 flight. Never saw anything
after that 8 second burn time motor went out of earshot.

Well, I can't get enough of this and am cloning a single break Aspire to fly an Altus Metrum Tele-Mini dual deploy that will blow at apogee with a restrained main chute that will be deployed with a cutter. Will try to cram an Archtype/PrairieTwister cutter
in there. Now if John Beans comes out with with a chute release that fits in 29mm I'll kick myself for getting the Tele-Mini! Nonetheless, I also have made a payload nosecone that can contain an an EggFinder Mini tracker and if the non-existent 29mm
CR ever materializes, I could do "pseudo" dual deploy with that setup. Kurt

 

[Rawcat]

Remember with an Aspire, if you put a G80 or an F10-8 in it, it's a truly fire and forget rocket. There's a strong chance you can forget it as it will disappear with those motors and likely will never be seen of again.
Kurt

Yeah, I had read multiple accounts of this. I wasn't going to put much effort into the paint, I have a few cans of cherry red Rustoleum 2x. I was just going to paint it solid red. I am curious to see if I can make it hit that mile mark as advertised with their F10-8. I don't own an altimeter, but most of my builds only go 750' so it should be impressive.

 

[Rawcat]

Unrelated question but while discussing the Aspire, I bought the Apogee F10-8, and there is a tiny amount of loose powder in the bag. Is this of any concern?

thanks for all the help guys

 

[dhbarr]

Unrelated question but while discussing the Aspire, I bought the Apogee F10-8, and there is a tiny amount of loose powder in the bag. Is this of any concern?

thanks for all the help guys

I'd want to weigh the remaining ejection charge to ensure a robust deploy, else should be good.

 

[ksaves2]

Unrelated question but while discussing the Aspire, I bought the Apogee F10-8, and there is a tiny amount of loose powder in the bag. Is this of any concern?

thanks for all the help guys

Yes, the ejection charge got out from under the paper end cap. Beg some 4f from somebody and put a little extra in there and reapply the endcap. Kurt