- Feb 9, 2019
- Reaction score
I've seen the black pyrogen fine off to bare wire on the red wired smaller ignitors. I just redip them with another pyrogen and the work fine, but the material is VERY brittle. flakes off with normal light handling.
Yes, on my G79-4W, one of the igniters had the pyrogen material fine off the end when I removed it from the tube. Can I put some QuickBurst on the end to use it?
Are you sure to get the tip in contact with the propellant and hold down the launch button (instead of a single press and release)?All Estes igniters now use the new white compound. I get about 7 or 8 fires per every 10 I use. The QuickBurst pyrogen helps.
I just got a couple of qjet 12 packs. And one ignitor the wire end was broken. When I picked up another. I bumped it with other hand. And wire broke off with pyrogen.
Then I lined up all of them and put thick ca on the bridge wire to lead wire junctions to strengthen them. A couple had pyrogen dipped far enough to support junction.
But still I am out 2 starters that I need to replace at some time. Inconvenience that could of been avoided with QC. I understand thin bridge wire low current. But couple that with separate lead wires and no support. Also for model rocket use where ruff handling will be the norm.
End of rant. Thank you Aerotech. And I’m sure this will be addressed in time.
For BP Motors I have ditched the plastic plugs, use a small gob of wadding to stuff the igniter into the nozzle using a plastic mechanical pencil (lead retracted.). I spread the wires just a bit to make sure the igniter doesn’t twist and short circuit. I was initially a “naysayer” on the new Estes yellow tips, now for SINGLE motor ignitions I am close to 100% success. I haven’t been very successful using them for clusters.Those igniters (these Estes ones) are hit and miss, I get a fair number of failures. I've used QuickDip pyrogen to improve them, but I'd suggest only using a small amount. I've found that trying to add a big fat blob of it does not work as well as a small coating.
I just bought 50 BP igniters from MJG Industries, so I'll be using those going forward. At less than a dollar each they're reasonable and the long wires make for easy clustering setup.For BP Motors I have ditched the plastic plugs, use a small gob of wadding to stuff the igniter into the nozzle using a plastic mechanical pencil (lead retracted.). I spread the wires just a bit to make sure the igniter doesn’t twist and short circuit. I was initially a “naysayer” on the new Estes yellow tips, now for SINGLE motor ignitions I am close to 100% success. I haven’t been very successful using them for clusters.
Jam it in tight, I can gently lift the rocket by the igniter wires if I have it in right.
I have e-matches that work well with large bore BP motors, As, Ds, and the repatriated C5s, I have have good cluster ignitions with As, and A And D combos. They won’t fit in the C6 or B6 motors, unfortunately.
That’s true. AT even provides a plastic cap for that purpose. If I remember correctly, CTI does too. At a minimum, I tape the starter to nozzle/retainer to keep it from getting spit out as pressure builds. Have seen many starters get spit out during ignition and have to wait till next rack to try again.Composite motors and igniters, I've been told that composite motors need to build up pressure, and that covering the nozzle with tape after inserting an igniter can help with this. True?
This is incorrect.re: Composite motors and igniters, I've been told that composite motors need to build up pressure, and that covering the nozzle with tape after inserting an igniter can help with this. True?
Welcome back CTI!The nozzle caps have little if anything to do with building pressure inside the motor. They're there to hold the igniter in place. In fact we punch holes in the caps so the cap doesn't push off under the initial pressure. On some commercial motors and for testing we will install a burst disc to help bring the motor up to pressure.
I have been using orange e-matches from Ebay, like the ones shown in post #48, to light BP motors for a few years now. They fit well into Estes 24 and 29 mm motors, but I even use them to light 18 mm motors for clusters. They key is to mount the e-match head at the opening of the nozzle with a bunch of tape.To the OP, specifically what e-matches are you using as BP igniters? Are these the blue/white wire version? Do you have a link you can share?