Aerotech 2050X

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David Schwantz

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Built several of these before, now I have 2 that are now calling for grain bonding. Never did on the previous reloads. Does anyone know has Aerotech changed their directions? Yes, I called Aerotech, they are all gone for about a week to a launch.
 
Built several of these before, now I have 2 that are now calling for grain bonding. Never did on the previous reloads. Does anyone know has Aerotech changed their directions? Yes, I called Aerotech, they are all gone for about a week to a launch.
100% Bond it. Elmers Glue All Max is my preferred goo. Drop the grains in from the top down, clean up excess inside of top of liner with acetone rag. Aft end/nozzle end keep clean, grease inside of liner at nozzle end, also grease outside of nozzle lip. Keep stack vertical for bonding.

Best,
 
Hi Justin, so did Aerotech change the directions that you know of? Probably done a dozen of these and have never had the grain bonding sheet included with the instructions.
 
Hi Justin, so did Aerotech change the directions that you know of? Probably done a dozen of these and have never had the grain bonding sheet included with the instructions.
I believe they did, check the directions that came with the reload. Recent K-1800, M-2225, and M-1780 I bonded and flew had new style instructions included, but full transparency, I didn't read 'em... :)
 
Trouble is getting Glue All Max and if you do find some, it has a shelf life under a year. Regular Gorilla Glue works but foams too much.
 
If you find that Gorilla Glue "foams too much" then you are using too much of it. Spread your glue layer thin. I've been using Gorilla Glue for all my bonding because I can't find GA Max anywhere around here. GG works just fine.
 
I have had success ordering it on Amazon, although I did get one bottle that was starting to harden, so YMMV.

I just grain bond everything 75mm and 98mm, anything 54mm that has more than 2 grains and any of the fast burning 38mm loads. I find them easier to store if they are grain bonded.
 
Trouble is getting Glue All Max and if you do find some, it has a shelf life under a year. Regular Gorilla Glue works but foams too much.

My experience with buying it from Amazon is that you are lucky if it has any life at all when you receive it. Bought a pack of 3, only one would flow, and only about 15% of that one was still mobile, the rest went to the trash.

If you find that Gorilla Glue "foams too much" then you are using too much of it. Spread your glue layer thin. I've been using Gorilla Glue for all my bonding because I can't find GA Max anywhere around here. GG works just fine.

Gorilla works fine, just don't get carried away. All of my bonded motors before the above Glue-all Max experiment did fine. Normally I put a very small amount and spread it with gloves where there is just a sheen on the outside. If you have thick spots with extra glue, I'd get rid of them before assembly.
 
Gorilla does make a clear, non-foaming polyurethane glue, but I have not tried it. I have to think it will work fine for this purpose.
 
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Agreed, the M2050x is one my favorite motors. I go through a bunch of them - I have 6 of them sitting on the motor shelf right now (all grain bonded :) )
 
Gorilla does make a clear, non-foaming polyurethane glue, but I have not tried it. I have to think it will work fine for this purpose.

Another product I have not tried is Titebond's Polyurethane glue. They advertise it as "lower foaming" and it is certainly cheaper than the Elmers Glue All Max from what I can see: https://www.rockler.com/titebond-polyurethane-glue

Haven't seen the Gorilla clear yet, but I'll probably try it on some scrap and then maybe in a small(er) motor case.

My success rate with the old style was 100%, though I haven't sent THAT many.

That 2050X is on my short list for my level 3.
 
FWIW I used regular Gorilla Glue on my last AT K1800, K1103, and also a 5 grain Loki K960 with no issues.

As others have said, if you are having foaming issues you are likely using too much
 
Gorilla does make a clear, non-foaming polyurethane glue, but I have not tried it. I have to think it will work fine for this purpose.
I would not use that without our recommendation. The foaming fills the gaps between the grain and liner that other glues do not. That’s why we don’t recommend epoxy.
 
If you get the big bottle of Glue All Max (vs the tube) and keep the lid screwed on tight, it lasts quite well. I've got a bottle about 3/4 full sitting on my worktable... still totally liquid. This is a really good all-purpose glue, too... I used it to screw-and-glue the loose hinges on our hallway linen closet, they'll never come out again, and I've used it for loose screws/trim on the camping trailer.
 
I would not use that without our recommendation. The foaming fills the gaps between the grain and liner that other glues do not. That’s why we don’t recommend epoxy.

ACK - thanks for letting us know! I have 4'ish bottles of Glue-all Max still, so no worries right now, although I think that O5500 is going to take a bottle all by itself :)
 
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If you get the big bottle of Glue All Max (vs the tube) and keep the lid screwed on tight, it lasts quite well. I've got a bottle about 3/4 full sitting on my worktable... still totally liquid. This is a really good all-purpose glue, too... I used it to screw-and-glue the loose hinges on our hallway linen closet, they'll never come out again, and I've used it for loose screws/trim on the camping trailer.
That’s also my experience. It gets some crystally stuff in it, but it stays liquid.
 
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