3D Printing ABS and Temperature Resistance

[BigMacDaddy]

I see a number of posts about what filament to use for high-temperature applications and questions about whether you can print engine mounts etc... Anyway, I was swapping an engine adapter into a different rocket and thought I would post a few pics in case this is useful to anyone.

This is an ABS printed D to E adapter that I have launched several times with D engines. I think that taking a direct hit from and channeling the ejection charge is one of the areas that gets the most high-temp abuse in a rocket. Engine nozzles obviously being subject to the highest temperatures but it is fairly easy to keep retainer caps out of the direct line of fire given how narrow the actual nozzle is compared to the engine casing. Anyway, typical charring and some buildup but no real damage to the part. This is printed w/ .4mm nozzle and .2mm layers w/ ABS. I think sides are 2mm thick (because of the engine notching) but I sometimes go as low as 1.2mm w/ my walls when I need to keep weight down.



p.s., have not had time to launch rockets lately (and parks are too crowded) but hoping I get a chance again soon since I have a number of rockets I have not tested (and have not even used my new launch platform / rail setup).

 

[OzHybrid]

I see a number of posts about what filament to use for high-temperature applications and questions about whether you can print engine mounts etc... Anyway, I was swapping an engine adapter into a different rocket and thought I would post a few pics in case this is useful to anyone.

This is an ABS printed D to E adapter that I have launched several times with D engines. I think that taking a direct hit from and channeling the ejection charge is one of the areas that gets the most high-temp abuse in a rocket. Engine nozzles obviously being subject to the highest temperatures but it is fairly easy to keep retainer caps out of the direct line of fire given how narrow the actual nozzle is compared to the engine casing. Anyway, typical charring and some buildup but no real damage to the part. This is printed w/ .4mm nozzle and .2mm layers w/ ABS. I think sides are 2mm thick (because of the engine notching) but I sometimes go as low as 1.2mm w/ my walls when I need to keep weight down.

View attachment 480316 View attachment 480317 View attachment 480318 View attachment 480319

p.s., have not had time to launch rockets lately (and parks are too crowded) but hoping I get a chance again soon since I have a number of rockets I have not tested (and have not even used my new launch platform / rail setup).

OOOh another ABS printer. You're a rare breed here.
Try a 0.6 nozzle, print at 0.65mm( to give you bonding squish) 0.2mm layer or higher and start at 40mm/sec. I'm printing 0.4mm layer and 60mm/sec. But work your way to where you're happy. Filament dryer 50 C, 105 C heated bed, 230 C print temp. And of course don't forget to recheck your size calibration. I also moved to a copper block Au$20 delivered. I'd say my print times are 50% of what they used to be. The nozzle is 2Xthe area but you can't print at that volume, but there are fewer travels, so it seems to be about double the speed.
Regards
Norm

 

[OverTheTop]

ABS prints aren't rare near me .

 

[OzHybrid]

ABS prints aren't rare near me .

Just here on the forum. Everyone seems to love PETG.. Why???? No replies please I won't use it. Not since the soap dish incident.......
You have every toy known to man available. A reflow oven..... Really.....

 

[BigMacDaddy]

Just here on the forum. Everyone seems to love PETG.. Why???? No replies please I won't use it. Not since the soap dish incident.......
You have every toy known to man available. A reflow oven..... Really.....

Once I built an enclosure I have not had problems with ABS printing. I clean my print plate with Acetone between prints and let prints cool down (usually) before popping them off the plate (sometimes need to use a razor blade to get them off). I also print with a brim.

Recently printed a big floppy 130x130mm tail cone that is 200mm tall with only 2x .4mm outside layers and it printed great (no supports of fin slots either since it just bridges those 2mm spaces, although slicing software wants to put supports since it is a curve). As long as there is some X & Y dimensionality (triangle) and not just a tall single dimensional plane I do not have issues with things popping off.

 

[OzHybrid]

Try printing at 0.05-0.1 above your actual nozzle size. Quantum strength leap... I have 2 prepped glass beds. take whole bed off and let print cool.

Using IKEA mirror tiles.

 

[JDcluster]

I print in ABS and have done some 29-24mm adapters. I just haven't tested them yet.
What is nice about ABS is: less prone to moisture, (as stated) higher heat resistance vs PL.A
Just beware that, ABS and ABS + are too different filaments. ABS + has some additives to make it easier to print and less heat resistant because of the modifiers.

 

[dr wogz]

I'm trying to print exclusively in ABS too.. Work related stuff, so I don't print every day.. but I am trying!

 

[cwbullet]

ASA is another option. Less toxic and easier to print.

 

[OzHybrid]

ASA is another option. Less toxic and easier to print.

Looks interesting, though double the price min... UV stable, still soluble in acetone so can use slush on glass for print bed, slightly stronger. Acetone vapour smoothing works. Might get a roll to try.
Seems to be more sensitive to water absorption and therefore drying requirements.
Norm