"About Damn Time." My Level 3 Build

Discussion in 'High Power Rocketry (HPR)' started by UPscaler, Sep 22, 2019.

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  1. Sep 22, 2019 #1

    UPscaler

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    Well, my signature has said "Level 3: coming soon" for about 5 years now. It's about damn time.

    I am flying a Wildman Punisher 4 fin can with my 4" Mad Dog electronics bay and upper section.

    I am currently torn between an M1297 and M1780.

    I built the motor mount today. Started where we always do, a nice 60 grit scuff for proper ashesion. If you watched my Punisher 3 build, this will all look familiar. 1" Kevlar strap bonded to the motor tube, and a good fillet along the top centering ring. The lower ring will not get a fillet in order to properly seat the fins. It'll get nice and solid with the chopped CF internal fillets.

    For this one, I folded the kevlar strap over and impregnated it with epoxy to prevent any opportunity of this strap slipping out upon deployment.

    Fins have been scuffed with 60 grit as well, for both internal and external fillets.


    Braden 20190921_154722.jpeg 20190921_155734.jpeg 20190921_164642.jpeg 20190921_182824.jpeg 20190921_175209.jpeg 20190921_183511.jpeg
     
  2. Sep 22, 2019 #2

    Tim51

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    Good luck with your L3 cert I will be follwing with interest. I like the idea of the 'cross bred' (I was going to say 'hybrid' but that would lead to confusion..) rocket built from WM / MC parts. What sort of altitudes do you expect from your motor choices?
     
  3. Sep 22, 2019 #3

    UPscaler

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    It's actually an old school performance Mad Dog made from cloth G10 tube and a gelcoat/cloth nosecone!

    The M1780 and M1297 both sim out to right around 13,000 feet.

    I plan on finishing the Punisher nosecone and electronics bay separately and flying it as intended eventually, but with sims estimating between 17,000 and 18,000 feet, I figured I'd weigh it down a bit with a setup I have flown repeatedly with success.

    Braden
     
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  4. Sep 23, 2019 #4

    UPscaler

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    Today I drilled all the holes for the injected fillets and got the motor mount installed.

    The fin slots were a little tight so I sanded them out to get the fins in. The fit on the fins between the CRs is nice and tight, so we shouldn't be leaking out the bottom holes upon injecting.

    Walmart will give you these oral syringes for free at the pharmacy! I like to chop the tips off for a bigger opening.

    After injecting I will drill the holes for the aeropack and do a small fillet around the rear ring.


    Braden 20190922_180320.jpeg 20190922_181519.jpeg 20190922_181632.jpeg 20190922_203809.jpeg 20190922_203818.jpeg 20190922_214045.jpeg
     
  5. Sep 23, 2019 #5

    blackjack2564

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    Cj tip: before injecting seal joint between CR and airframe with super glue so injection doesn't leak there.
     
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  6. Sep 23, 2019 #6

    farsidius

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    Good luck with your build and L3 attempt. I love my 4" Punisher. It's a real workhorse and gives you a lot of flexibility in motor choices when flown in it's original configuration.
     
  7. Sep 25, 2019 #7

    UPscaler

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    You know it! That's also why I opted to wait to drill holes for the aeropack ;)


    Braden
     
  8. Sep 26, 2019 #8

    UPscaler

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    Fins are tacked in place.

    For anyone curious, here it is next to the 3" Punisher.

    and how it'll be flown for my L3.


    Braden 20190925_231007.jpeg 20190925_231022.jpeg
     
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  9. Sep 26, 2019 #9

    GRIFFIN

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    Following.
     
  10. Sep 26, 2019 #10

    jmmome

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    Great idea with the oral syringes. Some years ago I bought some large syringes on Ebay with the same intent. Cut the end just as you did. Worked well, but harder than I thought to push the epoxy out.

    Now I use a different method- extend the fin tube slots forward by the diameter of the rocket body. cut the tube there so the forward end of the slots are open, epoxy joint-mount each fin on the motor mount tube by sliding the assembly in through the slots after epoxying the aft centering ring to the motor tube (mark the first fin and the first slot so you'll have them correctly lined up at the end). When all fins are joint-epoxied I remove the fins/ motor tube assembly, epoxy the forward centering ring in place on top of the fins and THEN add the internal fillets- as thick as you'd like.

    Slide the whole assembly back in though the slots, epoxy in place, and use a coupler both to connect the fins assembly to the rest of the body tube, and also to additionally hold the fin assembly in place.

    I like the idea of visually inspecting my internal fillets, so that's the only reason I made this change in my construction technique. Has worked just fine on motors up to "K" size so far.
     
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  11. Sep 28, 2019 #11

    jimzcatz

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    You have done lost yo mind! Yea, you know what I'm saying... SMDH!!


    PS: Good luck.
     
  12. Sep 29, 2019 #12

    UPscaler

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    Thank you! I don't fear altitude like I used to, it'll be pretty managable!



    Here are what I think are probably the most textbook internal fillets I have ever done.

    The camera angle makes the right side look a bit larger, but in person they are dead even


    Braden 20190928_204204.jpeg
     
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  13. Sep 29, 2019 #13

    blackjack2564

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    Can you fillet a fish that good?:)
     
  14. Sep 29, 2019 #14

    GaryT

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    As Cj said I highly recommend this, you don't want to come back and see all the epoxy leaked out via the bottom fin and cured all over it. Been there too huh Jimmy LOL
     
  15. Sep 29, 2019 #15

    UPscaler

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    I had the same fate with my 6" Der Red Max. A man can only tolerate so much time with high grit sandpaper before going crazy. It was not pleasant.


    Braden
     
  16. Sep 30, 2019 #16

    UPscaler

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    In my endless effort to mix chopped CF into epoxy effortlessly, I cut the tip off this spade bit. Works great!

    Set two is done.



    Braden 20190929_153437.jpeg 20190929_160237.jpeg
     
  17. Sep 30, 2019 #17

    UPscaler

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    All internals are done, and with the same syringe the whole time! Denatured alcohol works wonders.

    I also got a cool package from John Clifton! This date and serial are right up my alley, it fits in woth our old Kosdon and AMW hardware


    Braden 20190930_160941.jpeg 20190930_161103.jpeg 20190930_161012.jpeg 20190930_161018.jpeg
     
  18. Oct 4, 2019 #18

    Lukun7

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    Another L3 build thread... Following. Cool rocket so far. Nice case.
     
  19. Oct 4, 2019 #19

    UPscaler

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    Aeropack retainers just look so good on rockets with this motor tube to airframe diameter ratio.

    External fillets up next!


    Braden 20191003_211254.jpeg
     
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  20. Oct 5, 2019 #20

    UPscaler

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    First set of externals is done.

    I'm back to west systems and 406 filler. Rocketpoxy just didn't do it for me. I love the sandability and shaping you can do with this stuff, as opposed to tons of body filler like my 3" Punisher.


    Braden 20191004_213353.jpeg 20191004_215802.jpeg
     
  21. Oct 5, 2019 #21

    blackjack2564

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    Me too!
     
  22. Oct 6, 2019 #22

    patelldp

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    I avoided West early in my rocket career in favor of US Composites due to cost. What a waste of time and money...West Systems is still the best in the game and it's not even close.
     
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  23. Dec 25, 2019 #23

    UPscaler

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    Pretty smooth...but not smooth enough.

    Been working so much I had to take advantage of holiday time to get some stuff done!

    Braden 20191224_210242.jpeg 20191224_210524.jpeg
     
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  24. Dec 27, 2019 #24

    UPscaler

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    Not bad so far...


    Braden 20191226_201753.jpeg 20191226_210858.jpeg
     
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