A toast to Odd'l Rockets

BABAR

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I would imagine you could use the same CA/dry/sand method first used to make them slide in and out, but then could it be the tubes themselves becoming wider? If so would it be wise to try applying the CA to the inner tube and sand down or is "the damage already done"?
Once I finish mine I'll certainly post photos and try to keep track if I start seeing the same issue. Since I'm still new enough to keep track of my launches (15 total as of this writing) maybe I'll also be able to report when this issue begins to present itself, if I too see it happen.
Good point. I had assumed that the couplers were weakening/starting to flex, but also possible (and maybe more likely) is the BODY tube of the next Segment may be deforming/widening.

i have read that a number of people on this forum (I think including @hcmbanjo ) will dribble a bit of thin CA on the inside forward edge of the body tube on each rocket to strengthen it, so applying the CA to both the coupler and receiving segment with judicious sanding may be the trick. It’s a bit touchy, you need the joints in boost mode to be solid enough to keep the rocket “straight” but loose enough that ALL THE JOINTS and the NOSE CONE separate with one ejection charge. Once there is a separation between ANY segments the body tube compartment decompresses, so separation of remaining segments is dependent on combination of inertia And drag. That said, usually works!
 

KenECoyote

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For my old build, I think I CA'd the tube edges, but didn't need to sand at all since it was pretty loose fitting. In fact, one of the tricky things for me was that the rocket was so loose and "noodley" that it would often pull itself apart in transportation or handling and then it was a chore to get everything back together :p
 

BABAR

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For my old build, I think I CA'd the tube edges, but didn't need to sand at all since it was pretty loose fitting. In fact, one of the tricky things for me was that the rocket was so loose and "noodley" that it would often pull itself apart in transportation or handling and then it was a chore to get everything back together :p
Here is where masking tape can be helpful. I use pink stuff, run a strip from fin can to nose cone, to hold things together after packing, leaving a “tail” where the tape folds back on itself so no sticky surface exposed.

Why the tail and why pink? The tail serves as my poor man’s “remove before flight tag”, pink is to catch my attention as I use this also for nose cones when I prepackaged them before transport, and yes with regular tan tape I HAVE forgotten to remove it:facepalm:. Result was a red face and a shorter rocket.

Masking tape less likely to mess up your paint job when applied and removed.

Here is a source

 

KenECoyote

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Here is where masking tape can be helpful. I use pink stuff, run a strip from fin can to nose cone, to hold things together after packing, leaving a “tail” where the tape folds back on itself so no sticky surface exposed.

Why the tail and why pink? The tail serves as my poor man’s “remove before flight tag”, pink is to catch my attention as I use this also for nose cones when I prepackaged them before transport, and yes with regular tan tape I HAVE forgotten to remove it:facepalm:. Result was a red face and a shorter rocket.

Masking tape less likely to mess up your paint job when applied and removed.

Here is a source

I did that a few times! It's been so long that I had forgotten.
 

hcmbanjo

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i have read that a number of people on this forum (I think including @hcmbanjo ) will dribble a bit of thin CA on the inside forward edge of the body tube on each rocket to strengthen it, so applying the CA to both the coupler and receiving segment with judicious sanding may be the trick. It’s a bit touchy, you need the joints in boost mode to be solid enough to keep the rocket “straight” but loose enough that ALL THE JOINTS and the NOSE CONE separate with one ejection charge. Once there is a separation between ANY segments the body tube compartment decompresses, so separation of remaining segments is dependent on combination of inertia And drag. That said, usually works!
Well - I don't "dribble" CA. CA glue is very thin and could run down inside the body tube.
Squirt out a drop or two of medium CA on some scrap cardboard,
Dip the Q-tip in the drop of CA,
Wipe around the inside of the body tube end for 1/4" or so.

Everything mentioned here about smoothing the Break-Away couplers are correct. They do need to slide easily so the ejection charge
will blow the model apart into the six sections. The nose cone is glued into the upper body tube segment.
 

KenECoyote

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Well - I don't "dribble" CA. CA glue is very thin and could run down inside the body tube.
Squirt out a drop or two of medium CA on some scrap cardboard,
Dip the Q-tip in the drop of CA,
Wipe around the inside of the body tube end for 1/4" or so.

Everything mentioned here about smoothing the Break-Away couplers are correct. They do need to slide easily so the ejection charge
will blow the model apart into the six sections. The nose cone is glued into the upper body tube segment.
Agreed...I usually use the small disposable hobby paint brushes (you can find in the dollar store) to spread CA on tubes and just toss the brush after.20221127_124315.jpg
Edit: I usually apply CA to bt or balsa fins directly and then brush even, but for precise or small applications I may apply directly to the brush. Ymmv
 
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neil_w

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Squirt out a drop or two of medium CA on some scrap cardboard,
Dip the Q-tip in the drop of CA,
I humbly submit that the step of first putting the CA onto the cardboard is unnecessary. Just squirt the CA directly onto the Q-tip. No drips, no waste. It is by far the *best* way to apply thin CA, which otherwise will try to go where you don't want it (unless CAing a balsa nose cone, in which case you need to squirt it directly onto the wood).
 

hcmbanjo

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I humbly submit that the step of first putting the CA onto the cardboard is unnecessary. Just squirt the CA directly onto the Q-tip. No drips, no waste. It is by far the *best* way to apply thin CA, which otherwise will try to go where you don't want it (unless CAing a balsa nose cone, in which case you need to squirt it directly onto the wood).
Yep! Whatever works for you is the best way to go!
 

Jiggs Henry

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So my next snag is an unexpected one - I'm in the process of painting the body tube pieces before continuing with the build, and my rustoleum ink black spray can has a clogged nozzle. - the can says to soak in "mineral spirits" which I'm guessing is a fancy name for paint thinner? I don't own any paint thinner so I'd have to buy some. Would it make more sense to just grab another can of the same paint (for about the same price as the paint thinner) and swap out the nozzles? Trying to stay on a budget, down to the dollar (yes I know this is really being cheap, but part of the reason I got into the hobby is that it can be done very frugally). Appreciate all the great conversation and tips, really looking forward to getting this build finished and showing it off (and flying it!)
 

KenECoyote

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So my next snag is an unexpected one - I'm in the process of painting the body tube pieces before continuing with the build, and my rustoleum ink black spray can has a clogged nozzle. - the can says to soak in "mineral spirits" which I'm guessing is a fancy name for paint thinner? I don't own any paint thinner so I'd have to buy some. Would it make more sense to just grab another can of the same paint (for about the same price as the paint thinner) and swap out the nozzles? Trying to stay on a budget, down to the dollar (yes I know this is really being cheap, but part of the reason I got into the hobby is that it can be done very frugally). Appreciate all the great conversation and tips, really looking forward to getting this build finished and showing it off (and flying it!)
Yes, you can swap with another nozzle, but see if you can try acetone (nail polish remover) or find another nozzle around/ask friends/ask art supply stores (they often use spray paints for displays and likely have a bunch around or in the garbage). Just trying to help you save a few bucks here.
Note that sometimes the clog is inside the can. Also turning the can upside down and spraying when you're done helps to clear paint out of the nozzle before storage.
Good luck!
 

Jiggs Henry

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Glad you mentioned acetone cause my daughter just bought some! I'll give that a shot. I knew about the upside down spray before storage, and did so the last time I used it, but I guess I didn't do it correctly or something.
 

neil_w

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I could be wrong but my recollection is that the upside-down trick does not work with the Rusto nozzles.

As for mineral spirits, it is… mineral spirits, sold under that name. There are many different kinds of paint thinner.

As for your can of paint, if the nozzle is clogged then a good soak might well clear it. But if it clog is inside the can then as far as I know the can is toast. After you remove the nozzle you should be able to figure out if it’s clogged or not.
 

tooth

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If you haven‘t read Stine’s Handbook of Model Rocketry, I highly recommend it, it is a very pleasant read (technical Without inducing narcolepsy). It won’t prevent all the mistakes you (like all of us) will make, but it will likely prevent or mitigate a lot of them.

straight trails!
Jiggs - thanks a ton for this post. I'm really new to all this stuff and I'm learning a lot from your process. Sorry you had the problem, but take some comfort in knowing you are helping others :).

Babar- can't thank you enough for recommending that book. Goodness knows I need to read it. Just got one ordered.
 

jadebox

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If you get desperate, Rustoleum will send you a few new nozzles if you contact them.
 
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