A New MPR Saucer

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I vaguely remember an upscale satellite killer that had some spin issues with the chute on the way down, it got tangled in one of the panels
Yeah, the SK has dowels sticking out near the top that are "chute snaggers", especially if ejection is past apogee.

Re: the nose cone. You can leave it off like the SK. The design is so draggy there's no reason you need one. And not necessary to have the chute completely packed in to the tube. You can leave it sticking out the top. SK flies fine in that configuration.
Take the chute off and put on a nose cone when she's lying on the shelf. KISS.
 
Whenever I remember a thread I can never find it. I vaguely remember an upscale satellite killer that had some spin issues with the chute on the way down, it got tangled in one of the panels, or it ejected the cute on the way down out the top and into its own path, rather than a rear-eject which would have worked better, I don't recall and I can't find the link I wanted to share. It might have been on another forum.

I did find this upscale clone example from a few years ago:
Tripoli Vegas Springfest 2015 what are you bringing?? 7.5x upscale

If you can find that info that would be great. I "could" make rear ejection work but it would be a pain. Maybe if I leave the shock cord long enough or make sure it ejects when it is still upright but slow enough to not cause damage I might be okay. The key will be the delay timing...UGH
 
Whenever I remember a thread I can never find it. I vaguely remember an upscale satellite killer that had some spin issues with the chute on the way down, it got tangled in one of the panels, or it ejected the cute on the way down out the top and into its own path, rather than a rear-eject which would have worked better, I don't recall and I can't find the link I wanted to share. It might have been on another forum.

I did find this upscale clone example from a few years ago:
Tripoli Vegas Springfest 2015 what are you bringing?? 7.5x upscale

Thanks, I think I just found a NC inspiration. I was leaning towards something like the front deflector on the Star Trek Enterprise.
 
Yeah, the SK has dowels sticking out near the top that are "chute snaggers", especially if ejection is past apogee.

Re: the nose cone. You can leave it off like the SK. The design is so draggy there's no reason you need one. And not necessary to have the chute completely packed in to the tube. You can leave it sticking out the top. SK flies fine in that configuration.
Take the chute off and put on a nose cone when she's lying on the shelf. KISS.

I like how you think Gary. Take a look at the pic I have a bunch or room around the MMT to put a small chute. A simple cap/NC would just make sure things stayed tidy on the launch and it would pull the chute out. Basically a simple concave disc.
 
The Blenders that I fly (13-29mm) spin up during boost, despin to apogee, and then spin up again in the other direction during descent. I don't think the spin makes lift, so much as it makes drag. Or converts drag to angular momentum. The Blenders descend noticeably more slowly if they are spinning, either nose up or nose down, than if they tumble. And sometimes they do tumble. The 'blades' on the Blenders aren't canted, but they are offset.

My big 38mm Quinstar behaves much the same, though I don't think it's ever flipped and come down nose first like the Blenders do. My original Quinstar proved to be too fragile to get much experience with it.
 
The Blenders that I fly (13-29mm) spin up during boost, despin to apogee, and then spin up again in the other direction during descent. I don't think the spin makes lift, so much as it makes drag. Or converts drag to angular momentum. The Blenders descend noticeably more slowly if they are spinning, either nose up or nose down, than if they tumble. And sometimes they do tumble. The 'blades' on the Blenders aren't canted, but they are offset.

My big 38mm Quinstar behaves much the same, though I don't think it's ever flipped and come down nose first like the Blenders do. My original Quinstar proved to be too fragile to get much experience with it.

If Blender is already a rocket I will change it.

Maybe "Tachyon Deflector"...
 
It is pretty stout !! I can easily fit a small chute though so I might as well go that route. For the NC I think I will make a tube that fits over the MMT. The NC can then have pretty much no shoulder at all, 1/4" should be enough to keep in lined up. This should protect the chute and shock cord while freeing up room in the nose area.
if you use a chute, be sure to have a swivel. If this rotates on the way down, it will spin the shroud lines and close the chute.

When I speak of canted fins, I am thinking of ROTATIONAL canted fin.

From you pictures, the fins are definitely canted with the forward ends nearer the axis then the aft ends. THIS type of cant-ing is exactly what you WANT for a saucer type rocket.

What I think you DON'T want is a ROTATIONAL helicopter blade like cant-ing, where the clockwise side of the fin is nearer to the axis than the counterclockwise end.

I just looked at the Quinstar and I can't tell for sure but I don't THEEEENK there is rotation prone cant-ing of those fins/lateral structures either.
 
Dry fitted !!!! NC sits right on the top of the MMT and I have enough tube left to stuff some wadding in. What I am wondering is, should I mount a tube to the underside of my NC that slips over the MMT because the NC shoulder is only 1/4"?

I considered drilling some holes in the main fins for look and to reduce weight but I am 520 grams and I plan to fly it on G's most of the time. Should I try to get the weight down?

IMG_20200310_160221128.jpg
 
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if you use a chute, be sure to have a swivel. If this rotates on the way down, it will spin the shroud lines and close the chute.

When I speak of canted fins, I am thinking of ROTATIONAL canted fin.

From you pictures, the fins are definitely canted with the forward ends nearer the axis then the aft ends. THIS type of cant-ing is exactly what you WANT for a saucer type rocket.

What I think you DON'T want is a ROTATIONAL helicopter blade like cant-ing, where the clockwise side of the fin is nearer to the axis than the counterclockwise end.

I just looked at the Quinstar and I can't tell for sure but I don't THEEEENK there is rotation prone cant-ing of those fins/lateral structures either.


Good CALL I had not thought about the spin closing the chute up. I will get a swivel.
 
if you use a chute, be sure to have a swivel. If this rotates on the way down, it will spin the shroud lines and close the chute.

When I speak of canted fins, I am thinking of ROTATIONAL canted fin.

From you pictures, the fins are definitely canted with the forward ends nearer the axis then the aft ends. THIS type of cant-ing is exactly what you WANT for a saucer type rocket.

What I think you DON'T want is a ROTATIONAL helicopter blade like cant-ing, where the clockwise side of the fin is nearer to the axis than the counterclockwise end.

I just looked at the Quinstar and I can't tell for sure but I don't THEEEENK there is rotation prone cant-ing of those fins/lateral structures either.

I believe the Quinstar would spin due to the shape of the "horizontal fins". They will spill air unevenly as it climbs.
 
I just looked at the Quinstar and I can't tell for sure but I don't THEEEENK there is rotation prone cant-ing of those fins/lateral structures either.
The Quinstar is absolutely canted for spin. The spin is a big part of the appeal for me (plus it makes the build more interesting.)
 
The Quinstar is absolutely canted for spin. The spin is a big part of the appeal for me (plus it makes the build more interesting.)


I wondered about my last post if the shape would be enough because I had seem one launch and their spin rate is awesome !!

I may pick one up, it would be the first kit I have bought...LOL
 
Recommended. Build it with a 24mm mount (very easy, it already has a 24mm core tube), and fly it on D12-0. Great fun, and always lands right nearby. :)

I also have some E11 J for my RMS case, that would be very cool !!

I think I am really getting into this type of rocket. There are some very cool designs and they all fly slightly differently from one another. Some use chutes, some don't, some spin like crazy some spin slow and some barely spin.

Recovery is never an issue and they are quite spectacular on launch.
 
I also have some E11 J for my RMS case, that would be very cool !!
Gotta get a video of that one. Fillet the heck out of it when building, don't want to find the speed of balsa if you can avoid it.

I think I am really getting into this type of rocket.
The best part is... NO PREP. Just shove a motor in and go. I always make sure I have at least one or two rockets with me like that at each launch.

For me it's a great change of pace, but it doesn't replace rockets that go fast and high.
 
Gotta get a video of that one. Fillet the heck out of it when building, don't want to find the speed of balsa if you can avoid it.


The best part is... NO PREP. Just shove a motor in and go. I always make sure I have at least one or two rockets with me like that at each launch.

For me it's a great change of pace, but it doesn't replace rockets that go fast and high.

I have a few of the Go Like Hill rockets as well but these are just so interesting and not really the norm. I have been making Art Applewhite saucers for years and years. I always have a couple of the 13mm size with a couple of motors to give to little kids at our club launches.
 
Neil and I cannot decide if i need to to retain this NC. I am considering a couple of sheer pins or a tube that is mounted to the bottom of the NC and slips over the MMT. The shoulder of the NC is only 1/4".
 
I’m amazed you posted a rough idea, got half-a-dozen “that reminds me of...” posts and yet your rocket still manages to look unique. Looking forward to the flight video.
 
I’m amazed you posted a rough idea, got half-a-dozen “that reminds me of...” posts and yet your rocket still manages to look unique. Looking forward to the flight video.

Thank You my Friend, I am looking forward to flying her in two weeks with my club.
 
I also have some E11 J for my RMS case, that would be very cool !!
If you use RMS motors just leave out the black powder ejection charge. You MUST use the delay (becomes a smoke grain) or the motor will burn out both ends. Still use the cap.
 
or a tube that is mounted to the bottom of the NC and slips over the MMT. The shoulder of the NC is only 1/4".
Reverse this. Use a cut off old 29mm motor, glued to the center of your nose plate. This slips INSIDE the forward end of the motor mount. The rest of the nose section can actually simply be a flat round plate that just rests on top of your body tube, no additional shoulder needed. Doesn’t take up any significant space
 
Ready for paint!!!
I make my motor clips from the heaviest bobby pins Wally World has. If they are bent slowly it works, bent them too fats and they snap on the tighter bends. I may add a threaded insert to the centering ring and use a piece of G-10 with a bolt for motor retention.

I will put wadding (Dog Barf) in the top of the motor tube before launch.

The NC acts very much like a piston. I may try to find a way to test an ejection with less powder than what comes in the reload.

Overall I am pleased with how it came out.

IMG_20200312_191425630.jpg IMG_20200312_191351539.jpg IMG_20200312_190227887.jpg
 
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