8" Dia. Gary Larson Cartoon Rocket aka Acme Spitfire

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jmmome

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Made some progress on the build. 8" dia. concrete-forming tubes wrapped with fiberglass cloth & epoxy. Coupler and avionics bay made by cutting down the tube to the appropriate diameter and glassing it with two wraps.

Centering rings, bulkheads & coupler bulkheads freehand-cut from 3/8" Baltic birch plywood with jigsaw & sanded to fit. The four 24" x 10" fins cut with jigsaw as well, with one fin (mis)placed 3" forward on the rocket.

75mm motor tube with fins and centering rings already attached. I bought some 2" wide non-adhesive fiberglass tape to reinforce the fins to the motor tube, and the fins to the outside of the body tube. 1,800 # test kevlar tape epoxied to the motor tube for shock cord attachment to the aft end of the avionic bay & the 24" nomex drogue chute made by Phylachutes (my wonderful mother-in-law).:clapping:

The main parachute tube is a glassed 3" dia. body tube which will run the full length of the "crooked tubes", which will be about 36" total in length. The crooked tubes will be cut at about 8.5 degrees off a straight cut. I'll create a plywood jig to trace the cut on the body tube. It works out to 1.55" difference from one side of the tube to the opposite side. I'll hand-cut the body tubes, as I don't have a compound miter saw. Centering rings with off-center holes will hold the tubes together & in place, along with structural-weight expanding epoxy foam.

The strangest thing I'm planning to try is to cut a 3" hole through both the forward & the forward coupler bulkheads. The parachute tube will be epoxied into the 3/4" thickness of the two bulkheads & will be flush with the base of the coupler bulkhead. A third bulkhead, 6" in diameter, will contain the two main chute charge wells, and will be secured tightly into place against the coupler bulkhead with wingnuts, via four 1/4" machine screws permanently affixed through the avionics forward bulkhead assembly. Matching holes will be in the 6" dia. bulkhead, and I'll use one or two 4" to 5" automotive O-rings to ensure a gas-tight seal.

If you have any other suggestions as to getting the two main chute charges through the crooked tubes & into the forward end of the avionics bay, I'm all ears. I had an even crazier though of putting a long coupler in the main chute tube, short enough at the forward end to add a nomex drogue chute and piston,. That piston would act as protection for the main chute below in the coupler-sized tube. I would have the connection wires for both the drogue & main charges running through the crooked tubes, and terminating at the centering ring at the forward end of the chute tube. The main charge would run via a long igniter wire down to the aft end of the coupler-diameter body tube, and force the nomex-protected main chute out. This REALLY seemed like a hassle.:D
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Fin section finally completed. Yardstick for comparison. It weighs about 13 pounds so far with my wooden homemade thrust ring,

Non-adhesive 2" wide fiberglass tape on both the fin/75mm motor tube joints & the fin/body tube joints. The bottom of the altimeter bay will fit into the top of the fin section. The rocket will be about 48" tall before it starts making the zigs & zags topping out at about 8 feet tall.

I'm going to add an off-center skirt 2" wider than the 8" body tube at the base of one of the body tube sections between the fins, tapering off to be flush at the top of the 24" length fins. The two adjacent body tube sections will go from 2" to flush with the fin at the base. I have a 10" dia. concrete forming tube which I'll use as the fiberglass form after wrapping mylar around it.
 
In a holding pattern............waiting for 3" dia. Blue Tube to be back in stock. That tube will not only be the main chute tube, but will be the support spine for the zig-zag body tubes. According to ARR, the Blue Tube supply should arrive at ARR by the end of this month.
 
The Larson drawing seems to have the body flare out at the base, so I'm attempting to do the same.

My body tube is 8" in diameter. I've added a 12" dia. ring at the bottom of the body tube. And although it is almost impossible to see, I've epoxied 1/4" square pieces of wood to the fins, starting at the outside of the ring and angling up about 17" toward the top of the 24" long fins.

I did some math calculations, and drew the circumferences of the 12" & 8" dia. circles on a sheet of epoxied fiberglass to create four "skirts", which I will epoxy to the bottom 12" circumference circle and to the 1/4" wood "guide rails" epoxied to the fins. The skirts are 24 1/2" long, which will allow them to be epoxied to the body tube just above the top of the fins. I'll run a fillet of epoxy to smooth the skirt/fin joints.
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Ordering the 3" dia Blue Tube for the "spine" of this rocket on the 26th, along with 6" Blue Tube for my Honest John & Mercury Redstone rocket builds.

Will have some updates on the Larson build soon after receiving the Blue Tube shipment.
 
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Here are a couple of images to show the progression of the rocket to date. The first shows the 3" motor tube to the 8" body tube to the 12" ring that supports the 24" tall "skirt". Yes- the bottom right fin is the one that starts 3" north of the base, as similar to the Larson drawing.

The second photo shows the skirt running down from the 8" dia. body tube to the 12" flair at the base. The wood thing sticking out from the left side of the second photo is where the 1515 launch rail lug will be screwed, so that it clears the bottom of the skirt.
 
Ordered the 3" dia. Blue Tube- 48" long- which will be the internal "spine" for all the crooked pieces. I will be using structural strength expanding foam, as well as an "off-center" centering ring, to hold each crooked piece in place. I'll also use 2" wide fiberglass tape/fiberglassing epoxy to secure each crooked piece to the next.

I'll cut each body tube piece to the proper total length, fiberglass it, and then cut the proper angle at each end to make it "crooked". I'll make a plywood template of 8" dia. plus whatever is needed to draw a cutting line on the body tube as my cutting guide.
 
Looks great so far.
If I recall, the original had a straight internal (spine) tube inside the crooked airframe, just as you are doing.

If you are doing dual deployment wouldn't it just be a matter of getting both pieces of the crooked external airframe to match up (without a coupler) with the coupler in the internal spine tube at the break point to release the droque ?
The main comes out of the forward section when the nose cone pops.

Of course your idea would also be interesting, although more complex.
 
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