7.5” T-Loc Build

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TheTank

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I need another large rocket like I need a hole in the head but I couldn’t resist picking up this kit from my local vendor, FlightSketch, when he had one in stock. I have had a couple of the 4” versions and love them. While not a complete build thread, I took a few photos along the way as this kit is well thought out and not just a simple “upscale.”

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As with any build, started off with the motor mount. I decided to build the entire motor mount and fin can assembly outside of the rocket and slide it into the airframe. First time I have done this but it worked out well. Initial motor mount assembly and altimeter bay/mounting plate that is integrated into the fin can.

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Fins added to the motor mount assembly along with the av-bay plate. Assembly integrated into the airframe and tip fins added. (Though I didnt take photos, I ran wires though the centering rings from the av bay before installing the motor mount into the airframe. I installed two sets of wires… a second set as more if a spare if needed in the future.

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You didn’t mention how you got the middle centering ring past the section of the av bay where the piece you install with the t-nuts that the cover plate attaches to. I found that I had to cut away the front of the middle centering ring so that it would slide past the av bay opening. There’s also the warning not to install your electronics, switch, or battery holder near the sides of the mounting board, as it will make them difficult, if not impossible to get access to. I installed them as near to the center of the mounting board as I could, so that I would be able to install or remove the battery without much trouble. Since the mounting board is permanently installed in the rocket, I would recommend you install t-nuts before affixing the mounting board, so that you can remove and reinstall the electronics at will.

One other problem that I found, was that I used a screw terminal mounting block on top of the forward centering ring for attaching the ejection charge. Once the body tubes are secured to the coupler, it’s a very long reach down the rocket to attach the ejection charge wires, making the process very tedious. Either install extremely long wires that you can stuff back down into the rocket, or do what I did; I made the coupler to lower body tube removeable using pem nuts. Once that is done, you can then epoxy the upper body tube to the coupler. It’s much easier to reach the wire block and attach the ejection charge with the coupler/upper body tube removed.

I’m looking at your pictures showing the paint job, and it looks like you might have built your rocket with the coupler/upper body tube being detachable like I did; am I right?

One question, it looks like you have double launch lugs. What type of rail are you using?
 
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You didn’t mention how you got the middle centering ring past the section of the av bay where the piece you install with the t-nuts that the cover plate attaches to. I found that I had to cut away the front of the middle centering ring so that it would slide past the av bay opening. There’s also the warning not to install your electronics, switch, or battery holder near the sides of the mounting board, as it will make them difficult, if not impossible to get access to. I installed them as near to the center of the mounting board as I could, so that I would be able to install or remove the battery without much trouble. Since the mounting board is permanently installed in the rocket, I would recommend you install t-nuts before affixing the mounting board, so that you can remove and reinstall the electronics at will.

One other problem that I found, was that I used a screw terminal mounting block on top of the forward centering ring for attaching the ejection charge. Once the body tubes are secured to the coupler, it’s a very long reach down the rocket to attach the ejection charge wires, making the process very tedious. Either install extremely long wires that you can stuff back down into the rocket, or do what I did; I made the coupler to lower body tube removeable using pem nuts. Once that is done, you can then epoxy the upper body tube to the coupler. It’s much easier to reach the wire block and attach the ejection charge with the coupler/upper body tube removed.

I’m looking at your pictures showing the paint job, and it looks like you might have built your rocket with the coupler/upper body tube being detachable like I did; am I right?

One question, it looks like you have double launch lugs. What type of rail are you using?

Good questions!

Hatch mounting plate - i installed the T-nuts before mounting. I then laid the hatch mounting plate on top of the “sled/av bay plate.” I then slid the motor mount/fin can assembly in just prior to the rear ring entering the airframe. I slathered glue (thickened West Systems to minimize running) on the airframe just prior to where all the centering rings would stop and then pushed it into final position. After it set up, i held/lifted the hatch mounting plate in place aligned with marks I previously made and glued it in with thing CA.

Terminal block - in installed two terminal blocks on the forward centering ring. My couple is glued into the payload tube and I use 3 removable plastic rivets to secure it to the fin can. I can then easily pull it apart when i need to in order to install a new pre-loaded centrifuge tube ejection charge.

Rail buttons: i mounted both 1010 and 1515 buttons. For convenience at club launches as well as to launch at my own field where i only have a 1010 rail.
 
Love it. The T-Loc is a great design. I've found myself sorely tempted lately by the 2.6" version, which I believe would almost fit inside your nose cone. :)

4” is a great option too. Very versatile on motors. I like them so much that bought another after I lost the first one in a swamp. #2 has close to 30 flights on it - F’s to H’s. Its even lofted an 11oz pumpkin to 1500’ for our annual pumpkin-chunkin contest!
 
Nice build. Is the hatch mounting plate a separate piece of coupler glued inside, or is it simply the last layer of the cardboard body tube? What tool did you use to make the cuts? Very straight and clean.

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Nice build. Is the hatch mounting plate a separate piece of coupler glued inside, or is it simply the last layer of the cardboard body tube? What tool did you use to make the cuts? Very straight and clean.

View attachment 492712

It’s a separate piece of coupler glued in that’s provided. I can’t take credit for the cuts, it’s all done at LOC via laser.
 
Good questions!

Hatch mounting plate - i installed the T-nuts before mounting. I then laid the hatch mounting plate on top of the “sled/av bay plate.” I then slid the motor mount/fin can assembly in just prior to the rear ring entering the airframe. I slathered glue (thickened West Systems to minimize running) on the airframe just prior to where all the centering rings would stop and then pushed it into final position. After it set up, i held/lifted the hatch mounting plate in place aligned with marks I previously made and glued it in with thing CA.

Terminal block - in installed two terminal blocks on the forward centering ring. My couple is glued into the payload tube and I use 3 removable plastic rivets to secure it to the fin can. I can then easily pull it apart when i need to in order to install a new pre-loaded centrifuge tube ejection charge.

Rail buttons: i mounted both 1010 and 1515 buttons. For convenience at club launches as well as to launch at my own field where i only have a 1010 rail.

Ah, plastic rivets! Good job! I like the rail button idea too; I just installed 1010 aerodynamic rail guides. on the AV Bay hatch, I decided to epoxy the inner piece before inserting the motor tube/centering ring/fin assembly. Used a reciprocating saw to cut off a section of the middle centering ring to get it by the hatch assembly. I figured the epoxy on both the front and rear centering rings, plus the fins, was more than enough . . .
 
I wish I was able to make the November launch hopefully this coming Saturday I will be there
Are you going to fly this bird at the upcoming launch ?



QUOTE="TheTank, post: 2210471, member: 30952"]
Thanks man. Couldnt pass on this one. You missed a good launch last month at Cato.
[/QUOTE]
 
I wish I was able to make the November launch hopefully this coming Saturday I will be there
Are you going to fly this bird at the upcoming launch ?



QUOTE="TheTank, post: 2210471, member: 30952"]
Thanks man. Couldnt pass on this one. You missed a good launch last month at Cato.
[/QUOTE]

I’d love to… but might be frowned upon to fly a full J at that location.
 
That’s true might be alittle heavy for there
Gonna be a NY rocket 👍🏼


I’d love to… but might be frowned upon to fly a full J at that location.
[/QUOTE]
 
Finally got a chance to finish up the Av-Bay. Installed an RRC3 I had laying around. A fresh 2S 300mah Lipo, and a pin switch from Labrat Rocketry to finish it off. Just need to complete a charge test and it will be ready to maiden. Hopefully at MDRA next weekend.

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Figured I’d update this thread as I finally got a chance to fly it at my field. Flies great! Maidened on an Aerotech J315R to about 1400’. Next flight will be at Red Glare in less than 2 weeks on either a J415W or a K456DM.

A74325C1-5790-49EF-A785-110D628AC0F7.jpeg
CB2863B7-C9D2-4A55-9904-740858EE4B76.jpeg
 
I need another large rocket like I need a hole in the head but I couldn’t resist picking up this kit from my local vendor, FlightSketch, when he had one in stock. I have had a couple of the 4” versions and love them. While not a complete build thread, I took a few photos along the way as this kit is well thought out and not just a simple “upscale.”

View attachment 492670
Not going to go very high on an F67!
 
Good questions!

Hatch mounting plate - i installed the T-nuts before mounting. I then laid the hatch mounting plate on top of the “sled/av bay plate.” I then slid the motor mount/fin can assembly in just prior to the rear ring entering the airframe. I slathered glue (thickened West Systems to minimize running) on the airframe just prior to where all the centering rings would stop and then pushed it into final position. After it set up, i held/lifted the hatch mounting plate in place aligned with marks I previously made and glued it in with thing CA.

Terminal block - in installed two terminal blocks on the forward centering ring. My couple is glued into the payload tube and I use 3 removable plastic rivets to secure it to the fin can. I can then easily pull it apart when i need to in order to install a new pre-loaded centrifuge tube ejection charge.

Rail buttons: i mounted both 1010 and 1515 buttons. For convenience at club launches as well as to launch at my own field where i only have a 1010 rail.
I did my hatch the same way. it was just laying loose in between the fins when I slid the motor mount assy into the body. Then I glued it to the body tube
 
I did my hatch the same way. it was just laying loose in between the fins when I slid the motor mount assy into the body. Then I glued it to the body tube

I’m a less detailed person, that’s why I just cut away part of the middle centering ring to get it past the av bay hatch assembly, lol. I do this a lot . . . I once was replacing a toilet and the mounting nuts were calcified/frozen; I just took a hammer and broke the porcelain and pulled the toilet out, then cut the mounting bolts with a sawzall. 😊
 
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