65th Anniversary Estes Rocket

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Here's a quick draft of an Open Rocket model based off the pictures posted so far. The interlocking fins are difficult to model without seeing them. My kit did not arrive as expected yesterday, so these are default weights from the part lists. Feel free to improve and share. I also started an upscale sim for a 2.6" body tube since that's close to 65mm for 65 years.
 

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How long is the shock cord?
Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.

Can someone post a hi-res scan of the face card? At least the 65th Anniversary logo part.
Is what got posted to JimZ's cover what you were looking for? I can try to scan mine, but it'll be a 2 part image because of the length of my scanner.
 
Folks sure are fickle.

A few days ago people were talking about boycotts and never having anything to do with Estes after the company announced a change to their pricing policy.

Now people can't stop talking about ordering this 'limited edition' model and/or how they plan to upscale it.

Estes owns you. ;)
NOPE! Not me. By the time I got the email saying these were available they were gone. ( I wasn't going to buy one anyway.)
 
Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.
Thanks! Can I get the width of the shock cord as well?

Some other questions...

The OD and ID of the Screw Eye?

The dimensional breakdown of the NC.... We can break it down into 4 parts... The rounded tip, the conic section, the cylindrical section, and the shoulder. JimZ has the shoulder at .75" long.
But how wide is the cylindrical section where it joins the conic section? Is it really cylindrical, or just slightly tapered?

How long is the cylindrical section?

How long is the exposed section of the NC?

What is the aft diameter of the rounded tip?

With that I should be able to finish the sim up.

Thanks!
 
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The interlocking fins are difficult to model without seeing them.
The fins were created using the OpenRocket import feature; much more difficult to see the seam. Fin.Lower.HCM.Rev_01.png
When positioning the fins, both fins should be set to the same reference point (i.e., the bottom of the parent).
 

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Thanks! Can I get the width of the shock cord as well?

Some other questions...

The OD and ID of the Screw Eye?

The dimensional breakdown of the NC.... We can break it down into 4 parts... The rounded tip, the conic section, the cylindrical section, and the shoulder. JimZ has the shoulder at .75" long.
But how wide is the cylindrical section where it joins the conic section? Is it really cylindrical, or just slightly tapered?

How long is the cylindrical section?

How long is the exposed section of the NC?

What is the aft diameter of the rounded tip?

With that I should be able to finish the sim up.

Thanks!

Switching to SAE measurements since you made me get my calipers out. 😛

Shock cord: 1/8" wide, 1/32" thick.

Screw Eye: 1/16" screw, 9/16" long. Eye OD is 13/32", ID is 9/32".

Nose cone:
My shoulder is 29/32"
Exposed section is 5 1/2"
Aft diameter of rounded tip is 5/64" (.08")
Doesn't seem to have a cylindrical section in the exposed portion. I think the taper is just slight. I've attached a photo of the nose cone against a speed square.

The taper angle does seem to change about 1” from the shoulder. Don't have a protractor handy, so I can't give the angle.

At the base, my cone measures .96".
1" up - .94"
2" up - .78"
3" up - .61"
4" up - .41"
5" up - .23"


Let me know if you need any other measurements. Happy to hold off on any build work until you've gotten the documentation you need, love your OR sim work.
 

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Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.


Is what got posted to JimZ's cover what you were looking for? I can try to scan mine, but it'll be a 2 part image because of the length of my scanner.
I'm good with what JimZ has, thanks.
 
Switching to SAE measurements since you made me get my calipers out. 😛

Shock cord: 1/8" wide, 1/32" thick.

Screw Eye: 1/16" screw, 9/16" long. Eye OD is 13/32", ID is 9/32".

Nose cone:
My shoulder is 29/32"
Exposed section is 5 1/2"
Aft diameter of rounded tip is 5/64" (.08")
Doesn't seem to have a cylindrical section in the exposed portion. I think the taper is just slight. I've attached a photo of the nose cone against a speed square.

The taper angle does seem to change about 1” from the shoulder. Don't have a protractor handy, so I can't give the angle.

At the base, my cone measures .96".
1" up - .94"
2" up - .78"
3" up - .61"
4" up - .41"
5" up - .23"


Let me know if you need any other measurements. Happy to hold off on any build work until you've gotten the documentation you need, love your OR sim work.
Thanks for all that! I'll get back on it soon.
 
Question about the self adhesive decal... I'm seeing a lot of yellowish color in areas I'd think are white (such as the lettering)... Is this the backing paper showing through? Or is it actually a bit yellowish?
 
i think i'm gonna scan and reproduce the decal on a slide-on sheet. i really dislike the stick-ons, but that being said, the instructions of Quest's Minotaur (which has self-stick) suggest dipping them in a little dish-soapy water before applying, which gives you a short window to adjust position. as i remember, it worked pretty well.
 
i think i'm gonna scan and reproduce the decal on a slide-on sheet. i really dislike the stick-ons, but that being said, the instructions of Quest's Minotaur (which has self-stick) suggest dipping them in a little dish-soapy water before applying, which gives you a short window to adjust position. as i remember, it worked pretty well.
I could really use a scan of the decal after it's been placed on a white background, along with a ruler for scale. I'm unable to clean up the scan from JimZ because of that backing paper showing through.
 
My sim is only awaiting a clean image of that 65th Anniversary Decal...

1681724556846.png


I found that there was a gap where the forward and rear fins joined... I opted to "fill" it, as a builder would do that.
 
I unboxed my kit today. Everything inside looks like it should. I haven't started building it yet though. I'm not sure how to get a good image of the decal without peeling off the backing and I don't want to that until I'm ready to apply it. Here are photos of the decals with and without flash. Maybe you can adjust the color levels to suit your needs?
 

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I found that there was a gap where the forward and rear fins joined... I opted to "fill" it, as a builder would do that.

I would adjust the parts with the roots aligned on a straightedge so that I had a good wood-to-wood bond at the joint between the fins. Or else I would fill the notch in the leading fins and make the booster fins totally independent.
 
I unboxed my kit today. Everything inside looks like it should. I haven't started building it yet though. I'm not sure how to get a good image of the decal without peeling off the backing and I don't want to that until I'm ready to apply it. Here are photos of the decals with and without flash. Maybe you can adjust the color levels to suit your needs?
I've got a 600 DPI scan of the decal still on its backing paper... It has a golden hue due to the backing paper showing through.

The best idea I've got is to remove the decal from its backing paper, and apply it to the white backing paper from another sticker (such as from a vinyl decal) and scanning that.
 
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