50 Year Old #1274 Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser Kit - Build Thread

[KenECoyote]

Last week I was digging up some of my old kits to start building the "when I retire" kits and I found a boxed Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser kit from 1991. Inside the box, I found another of the same kit, but bagged and from 1975 (the 1991 kit was a reissue of the original 1975 kit).

Since I had found two kits, I wanted to check with TRF on which to build and I started a thread here.

Here are some pics! First, the "ol bag" kit:

Kirk: "Why so blue, Spock?"

Then the boxed kit which I'm showing for reference (and I may be using for any missing parts):




As a first step, I wanted to document this on YouTube and so I made the first video, which is a review of the old kit and parts:

(One take yo! )

However, in the video I made a couple of goofs. The clay for the kit is apparently two pieces of clay. One big and one smaller. Also $1 Million in 1975 is worth about $6 Million today (wow). I've noted these corrections in the video description.

The old kit is apparently missing: one motor adapter ring; parachute lines; engine hook; clay for nose weight (the one I was holding was most likely one of the two from the boxed kit); launch lug, and one "drive unit body tube" (support for the vacu-form pods). However, these are small items and I can borrow from the box kit or reference it for replacement or duplication if needed. The most important part of the kit imho is the vacuform plastic parts.

So after I finish building it, I plan on launching at my club's next launch this spring (they close for the winter because we're in the Northeast).

As for launching a 50 year old Klingon Battle Cruiser kit in front of an audience, let's hope that on that day, it isn't...

"Today is a good day to die CATO!"

 

[KenECoyote]

Side note and trivia

So I've been using "vacuform" to describe the formed plastic piece that comes with the kit; however, it comes up with a red squiggle under it when I type it out here, which surprised me. I googled it to see why and here's a bit of info on this:

 

[KenECoyote]

Also related to this and definitely cool news for Star Trek TOS (The Original Series) fans, @Capt. Eric provided a great tip and news:

For all you Star Trek fans, have you ever been to the Star Trek set in Ticonderoga, NY? That place is really cool if you are into it. Shatner will apparently be there on June27 & 28.
https://startrektour.com/

I had gone to that place in Ticonderoga, NY a few years back on a big extended family trip and we all loved it. I also coincidentally took a picture of the Klingon Battle Cruiser prop, which may be the actual one they used on the set.




Now my family is planning on visiting this June when Shatner is there!

Edit add: Maybe if Shatner is doing signings...

 

[KenECoyote]

Steps 1 & 2: Build the motor mount!

I just followed the instructions for this, however:

• I made sure to use a recently used 18mm Estes engine to check that the old motor tube fits the modern engines just in case.
• I saw that the retaining hook wasn't as bent as I would like, so I used pliers to bend it inwards a bit for more positive motor retention (if the motor kicks out on ejection, this rocket will put on a smashing display on landing!).
• The aft end split ring was delaminating after I glued it to the motor tube, so I applied some CA to get it back together again.

That was all I had time for last night. I was a bit tired.

 

[KenECoyote]

Commercial break...

 

[KenECoyote]

Now that the glue is dry, I added a bit of CA to the inner lip of the motor tube so that it doesn't fray and tear when inserting engines (I hate that).



I did another test fit with an 18mm spent casing and also made sure that I couldn't push the engine out from the front end with my finger, thus ensuring that it would stay secure during ejection and that it couldn't kick itself out.

Impulse engine is ready!

 

[KenECoyote]

Step Three - Balsa Die Cut pieces

Cut.



Woo hoo, sanding! Well, I did a light sanding - heck, it's soft balsa.


Then onto cutting the pieces out.

Since this is an old kit and some may have been spared the "joy" of handling non-laser cut pieces, here are some tips:

• Use a new sharp blade
• Be gentle, it's soft and easily hurt. Think more Starfleet Red Shirt than Klingon.
• On parts with sharp angled corners, draw the blade in towards the part instead of away (away can rip off the corner)
• Always keep your fingers clear of the path of the blade!
• After tracing one side, flip it over and trace the back side
• 
• 
• Then gently push the part up through the back side. You'll see where it still needs cutting. (If you push the other way up through the back, that untrimmed bit can rip a piece off of your part.)
• 
• If you're having trouble seeing where the die cut is, just gently flex the area around the part and the line should appear.
• 
• 
• If any part breaks, just use some glue to fix it.

 

[Bravo52]

Wow... I didn't even thing about this kit being a 50 yr old kit. I have one of the old bag kits to go along with a box version of the Enterprise. I think this will be a great build and am looking forward to your progress. Now I need to decide if I'm ever going to build mine or just pass it on...either way, looking forward to your thread.

 

[KenECoyote]

Wow... I didn't even thing about this kit being a 50 yr old kit. I have one of the old bag kits to go along with a box version of the Enterprise. I think this will be a great build and am looking forward to your progress. Now I need to decide if I'm ever going to build mine or just pass it on...either way, looking forward to your thread.

Thanks! I plan on doing a build thread of the Enterprise after I finish this one and then I'll be launching both.

 

[dhurstell]

Last week I was digging up some of my old kits to start building the "when I retire" kits and I found a boxed Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser kit from 1991. Inside the box, I found another of the same kit, but bagged and from 1975 (the 1991 kit was a reissue of the original 1975 kit).

Since I had found two kits, I wanted to check with TRF on which to build and I started a thread here.

Here are some pics! First, the "ol bag" kit:
View attachment 692518
Kirk: "Why so blue, Spock?"

Then the boxed kit which I'm showing for reference (and I may be using for any missing parts):
View attachment 692515
View attachment 692516
View attachment 692517

As a first step, I wanted to document this on YouTube and so I made the first video, which is a review of the old kit and parts:

(One take yo! )

However, in the video I made a couple of goofs. The clay for the kit is apparently two pieces of clay. One big and one smaller. Also $1 Million in 1975 is worth about $6 Million today (wow). I've noted these corrections in the video description.

The old kit is apparently missing: one motor adapter ring; parachute lines; engine hook; clay for nose weight (the one I was holding was most likely one of the two from the boxed kit); launch lug, and one "drive unit body tube" (support for the vacu-form pods). However, these are small items and I can borrow from the box kit or reference it for replacement or duplication if needed. The most important part of the kit imho is the vacuform plastic parts.

So after I finish building it, I plan on launching at my club's next launch this spring (they close for the winter because we're in the Northeast).

As for launching a 50 year old Klingon Battle Cruiser kit in front of an audience, let's hope that on that day, it isn't...

"Today is a good day to die CATO!"

Have you considered using the virgin plastic to create molds allowing for additional duplications?

Subbing to this thread.

 

[KenECoyote]

Have you considered using the virgin plastic to create molds allowing for additional duplications?

Subbing to this thread.

Given the complexity and loss of detail of doing such, imho it doesn't make sense. Vacuum forming usually loses a bit of detail from the mold, so doing a vacuum form of a form would be even less detail as well as slightly bigger all around. Edit add: I guess the better way is to fill the form on the inside to make new dies, but that's a lot of work and can ruin the form (especially if it's very old).

Plus nowadays it's much easier to 3D print parts. I'm positive there's a 3D printed model of this and one would just need to scale correctly and slice out select parts.

An upscale of this and/or the Enterprise would be cool. I don't think I've heard of it done before. Damn, another idea to add to my list LOL.

 

[KenECoyote]

Have you considered using the virgin plastic to create molds allowing for additional duplications?

Subbing to this thread.

You know what? It's actually good that you brought this up now because I got a 3D scanner around December and haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I can test it on the vacuform parts after I have them cut out. Should be a good test while also allowing simpler duplication and easier construction (I think).

 

[KenECoyote]

qaStaH nuq jay’!
Step 4: Gluing the wing pieces

This section sounds like it should be simple, however, it was actually a bit confusing to me.

The first picture shown on the bottom of the instructions is showing you how to glue the big pieces for the wing.

This is fine, but then they next picture shows parts that look slightly different and the orientation also differs.


Plus the instructions after that tell you to glue first, followed by "spread a piece of waxed paper". This is where it pays to read through the instructions in advance and before you proceed.

Those upright pieces should be the same width as the end of the wing underneath, yet both were a bit short. Initially I just put them in the center, but then I looked ahead and saw that they actually fit over the body tube, so I glued them flush with the inboard edge of the wing.

 

[Art Upton]

An upscale of this and/or the Enterprise would be cool. I don't think I've heard of it done before. Damn, another idea to add to my list LOL.

I've seen a few HPR Cruzers, and one in person, but I don't recall it flying that day or I missed it.

 

[KenECoyote]

Steps 5-7: Vacuum formed plastic pieces


Sulu: Look at that dirtbag! Oh, he's also got a vacuum!

This part was the most intimidating to me... cutting out the old vacuum formed plastic pieces. However, it wasn't so bad!

The instructions were detailed and noted to first trace the pieces with a ball point pen (great advice!), then score lightly with a knife, repeat, then flex the plastic border until the piece is free.




I would add the following suggestions:

• Using scissors, first cut the pieces out with a border so that you can handle each piece separately rather than on the sheet with other parts in the way (and potentially damaged)
• Use scissors to cut any straight edges... works really well and fast.
• 
• Edit add: I leave a bit of a lip versus the instructions that say to sand flush (which tends to leave gaps with vacuform). You'll see why when I glue the drive unit halves together later.
• Take your time! These parts are sometimes thin and brittle.

The part in the pic above that has a piece of blue tape is cut differently from the rest (detailed in the instructions and shown below in the lower left corner).


I got everything cut out in one sitting. Not too bad!

 

[KenECoyote]

Step 8: Gluing in the engine mount


This is typical for mmt installation. I did have to take a layer off the rear split ring since it was too tight. I also sanded down the inside edge of that ring so that it would go into the tube without snagging the tube edge.

Test fit is good!

Next comes the glue. The instructions note to add a 1/2" ring of glue 2" deep inside the body tube, so I marked a chopstick off at 2.5". Getting a bit of glue less than 2" in isn't a problem since the engine mount will push it out of the way anyway.

Glue ring is in!

Now I slipped in the engine mount most of the way in and then added glue to the inside edge of the aft split ring and pushed it in flush.

The instructions didn't note to add glue to the rear ring, but it sure seems sensible to me.

 

[KenECoyote]

Steps 9 & 10: Marking guide and rear bulkhead

The tube marking guide is typical as well, but I forgot that they are also typically a bit "off".

(Excuse the farmer's tan.)

I used my Estes tube marking guide to extend the lines.

Then Step 9 says to glue on the rear bulkhead aligned with the wing lines.

The bulkhead cutout for the body tube was somewhat off, so I just used my Dremel with a sanding drum to quickly fix it to fit well.


However, despite my lining up everything pretty well, the engine clip was slightly off from straight down. No biggie and I didn't want to bother redoing the lines.

I've had this happen several times with Estes templates. I shouldn't just trust them to be correct.

 

[KenECoyote]

Step 11: Wings

The wings proved to be trickier than I had anticipated. It was also probably the part I was most looking forward to as well since at that point it feels like it's a rocket taking shape.

What was tricky? You'll see...


So the tricky part is that the wings are mounted against a rear bulkhead, below the actual center, angled down slightly (with no note about how much) and also has a forward vertical part* that glues over the body tube. Plus both vertical parts should match up symmetrically!

*Those vertical parts/forward bulkheads were a bugger. if I had known how they require precise placement, I would've used a square and also abut both first to ensure they were perfectly vertical and similarly placed. Also I had to do a lot of trimming for them to fit the body tube.

I test fit and then glued one wing before I realized they had to be canted slightly downwards, but I was able to fix it.

However, while trying to get everything aligned along with a downward cant, I later saw that the wing had a twist! Luckily I caught it in time and was able to reglue it and hold it in place straight while it dried. Ugh.

I then glued on the other wing and this time I used tape to hold it in place while it dried (instead of using my hands again).

If you look closely at the center bottom pic, Kirk and Spock are fighting during Pon farr lol

Here is an example of the forward bulkhead alignment issue I mentioned.


While I don't plan to make this a museum quality model, this misalignment looked bad and it bugged me, so I had to fix it.

I traced the forward bulkhead frame onto the scrap balsa (Tip: keep the kit scraps until you're done!) and then cut out the filler piece. Pic above shows this on the lower left.

Then I glued it onto the bulkhead that sat further back.


Next, I cut, trimmed and filed it down until it was a close match with the other side.




Qapla'! (Success!)

 

[KenECoyote]

Some Klingon Trivia...

https://screenrant.com/star-trek-klingons-aliens-trivia/

"11. They Were Originally Supposed To Be Asian"

 

[Huxter]

Thanks for this thread and pics.

I must say, you went on the bridge of the Enterprise, and this is your pic:



I think something like this would be better/more appropriate!

 

[Fishhead]

View attachment Estes Klingon.mp4
All I know is that they don't bounce.

 

[KenECoyote]

View attachment 693186
All I know is that they don't bounce.

 

[KenECoyote]

Thanks for this thread and pics.

I must say, you went on the bridge of the Enterprise, and this is your pic:

View attachment 693174

I think something like this would be better/more appropriate!

View attachment 693175

That would've been a great pose!

Honestly, I couldn't think of how to pose at the time, but I did a few including this "behind-the-scenes" one I had posted in the other thread.



I like this one next to the Federation flag though.

(Easter egg: if you zoom in on my watch, it has a display like that of a Star Trek Next Generation console!)

 

[Fishhead]

What did you think of that little jink the rocket made just off the pad? Was this the result of a defective motor?

 

[KenECoyote]

What did you think of that little jink the rocket made just off the pad? Was this the result of a defective motor?

Hard to say, but a few guesses would be: strange crosswind at about 15-20 feet (I've seen this), the upper section canted or bent slightly (the design is a long weighted pod attached a bit loosely around the mid section of the rocket) caused the nose to angle down, motor nozzle eroded a bit uneven and caused off-axis thrust, etc.

Any post-crash pictures and if this was your rocket, what are your thoughts?

 

[Fishhead]

Hard to say, but a few guesses would be: strange crosswind at about 15-20 feet (I've seen this), the upper section canted or bent slightly (the design is a long weighted pod attached a bit loosely around the mid section of the rocket) caused the nose to angle down, motor nozzle eroded a bit uneven and caused off-axis thrust, etc.

Any post-crash pictures and if this was your rocket, what are your thoughts?

No, it belonged to another club member, so I didn't get any post crash pics. I was pretty pumped to see it fly as I'd never seen one in the air before. To be honest, I was surprised to find that I still had this on my computer.

 

[KenECoyote]

No, it belonged to another club member, so I didn't get any post crash pics. I was pretty pumped to see it fly as I'd never seen one in the air before. To be honest, I was surprised to find that I still had this on my computer.

Well, at least it launched and died gloriously (the Klingon way).

 

[Fishhead]

Well, at least it launched and died gloriously (the Klingon way).

Pretty sure that's what went through my head watching the flight. I'm thinking that there was another flight in our cornfield one time, but I might be confusing it with something else.

 

[aerostadt]

Dynasoar Klingon cruiser rocket glider flies pretty good!

 

[KenECoyote]

Step 12, 13 & 14: Hangar Deck & Drive Units

(I know it's not TOS, but I don't care lol)

This is the section that I was most apprehensive about since it's two major parts that hang off the ends of the wings and I haven't worked with vacuform kits in decades (plus the past two were kind of poorly molded). However, it's been coming along very nicely!

First was the Hangar Deck piece which had to be put into place in an odd manner onto the cardstock Engineering Hull Top.


I used Testors plastic model cement (which I tested on scrap pieces first) to glue it in position and then I added CA along the edges and gaps after and it worked fine.

Next was the scary part... the Drive Units. I never know how two vacuformed halves will match up and my past experiences were usually not that good. We'll see...



Again I used the plastic cement for this part. Of note is that the instructions didn't note to cut out that portion for the pylon, but no biggie. I also sanded the small body tube for better surface adhesion.



(Hmm...match is not too bad.)


Then I ran a bead of cement all along the edges, squished the halves together (I liked that the plastic cement fills gaps) and used rubber bands and masking tape while it set.

Side note: The old kits apparently included "contact adhesive" in a small plastic bulb (shown in the instructions) and I found one!
@cbrarick don't worry, I didn't use this "50 year old glue!"

After the cement dried, I started removing and finishing the seams. For this, I used a hand file for the wide flat areas, a Dremel with a cutting bit for the detailed areas and curves, and an Xacto knife for final touches.

(Right side filed and left not done yet here.)



After the seam removal, I ran a bead of CA all along the seam for extra measure. And here is one of the finished units!



Side by side comparison before and after seam removal:


So while I was worried how this would turn out, I ended up quite happy with the results and I'm really digging this kit!