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Now that I have flight tested the thing, here is a link to a 1-piece low profile shroud for an 808 camera. Fits a 4" airframe and stayed on at Mach 1.1

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3626341

I have it on my list to do a 3" version, but haven't got there yet.
I love the 808 #16 cameras. I was lucky to get the cameras before all the cheap Imitations hit the market.
I would like to order a 4" and a 3" color bright orange.
thanks
 
Hello Chums,
Here's my fin can program. It's a work in progress.
What's different about this?
Height of fin can be set at Start of Leading Edge, End of LE, Start of Trailing Edge, End of TE. This gives you "curved ish" tips. The limitation is that the "hull" function used for the fins effectively drapes a blanket over the points. So you can get outwardly curved fins but not inward.
The program has fillets. I'm working on better fillets. So the function for the current fillet is called BadFillet. Should probably be NotBadFillet.
Enjoy and give me your feedback. The json file contains the presets for a few fin cans. change name fins.txt to fins.json both files must be in the same folder location. This shows what you can do with different fin tip heights.
Update 16:15 Jan 17 Aus Time.
FinFilletShape now working and all volumes join which is useful if you want to print..... :)
Update 18:50 Jan 19 Aus Time
Minimum edge thickness added. Set to multiple of printer wall print size(nozzle size normally but not necessarily) This gives you a definite edge that can actually be printed. Otherwise size of fin printed depends on slicer and nozzle size. Here you're taking that into account before you slice.
json file with presets updated with preset for single fin no fillet. You asked for it. Will show shadow of fin can but this will resolve to a single fin when rendered.

Norm
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I see a lot of fin can scad files but has anyone done one for just a fin and the ability to do things like diamond airfoils and change the leading and trailing edge thicknesses? I feel like that would get more use than a fin can where you have to deal with a lip between the can and the body tube.
 
I see a lot of fin can scad files but has anyone done one for just a fin and the ability to do things like diamond airfoils and change the leading and trailing edge thicknesses? I feel like that would get more use than a fin can where you have to deal with a lip between the can and the body tube.
Already part of latest version of fin can module. Set tube thickness to 0 and fin Qty to 1.
If you don’t want a fillet set fillet radius to 0.1. It can also create a half fin of you want to create a shell In halves.
I’ll upload latest version.
Also has minimum Leading and Trailing edge thickness setting. Set this as a multiple of your nozzle diameter.
 
Hello Chums,
Here's my fin can program. It's a work in progress.
What's different about this?
Height of fin can be set at Start of Leading Edge, End of LE, Start of Trailing Edge, End of TE. This gives you "curved ish" tips. The limitation is that the "hull" function used for the fins effectively drapes a blanket over the points. So you can get outwardly curved fins but not inward.
The program has fillets. I'm working on better fillets. So the function for the current fillet is called BadFillet. Should probably be NotBadFillet.
Enjoy and give me your feedback. The json file contains the presets for a few fin cans. change name fins.txt to fins.json both files must be in the same folder location. This shows what you can do with different fin tip heights.
Update 16:15 Jan 17 Aus Time.
FinFilletShape now working and all volumes join which is useful if you want to print..... :)
Update 18:50 Jan 19 Aus Time
Minimum edge thickness added. Set to multiple of printer wall print size(nozzle size normally but not necessarily) This gives you a definite edge that can actually be printed. Otherwise size of fin printed depends on slicer and nozzle size. Here you're taking that into account before you slice.
json file with presets updated with preset for single fin no fillet. You asked for it. Will show shadow of fin can but this will resolve to a single fin when rendered.

Norm
View attachment 500499
Latest updates. See original post for files. Notes on updates are there.
 
I see a lot of fin can scad files but has anyone done one for just a fin and the ability to do things like diamond airfoils and change the leading and trailing edge thicknesses? I feel like that would get more use than a fin can where you have to deal with a lip between the can and the body tube.
New version uploaded. There's a diamond profile single fin with min LE and TE thickness Single Fin preset. Enjoy....
 
I'm waiting until I can test this to make a thingiverse listing, but if anyone needs one I made a pull-pin switch mount. You'll need a 2mm bicycle spoke, SS-5GL switch (digikey), and 2-56 screws. Edit: Updated with improved tolerances and a second version for use with the metal sail switch removed.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4RvwU1XjFKc
photo_2022-02-10_20-30-48.jpg
 
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I've been posting some of my designs to Thingiverse (once they mostly work).
So far there is:

Pathfinder (18mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771395
WAC Corporal (18mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2745737
Nike Smoke (24mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2933203
Aerobee (18mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3236440
Sign Here Please (29mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2885052
Checked Baggage (38mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164819
What is the weight of the weight of your Checked Baggage Rocket?
 
I am making a lightweight build with one long shock cord going through the avbay (and continuing on up and down), knot on one end and a cable clamp on the other to hold the avbay lids. I whipped up this minimalist cable clamp and thought I'd share it. For 2-3mm kevlar cord, needs an m3 bolt and nut (preferably nylock). Wrap the cable once around the bolt and tighten. Recommend PETG with 100% infill (it's tiny).

Tinkercad link in case anyone wants to scale it: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/d6wh06KmHfpcable clamp.jpg
 

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I have a fully 3D printed rocket that I plan to fly using the Aerotech 29mm RMS motors. I printed the motor mount out of PETG with no liner and am wondering if anyone has tried this. Will the heat of the motor hardware melt the PETG? Should I print a new motor mount with a cardboard liner in it?
 
I have a fully 3D printed rocket that I plan to fly using the Aerotech 29mm RMS motors. I printed the motor mount out of PETG with no liner and am wondering if anyone has tried this. Will the heat of the motor hardware melt the PETG? Should I print a new motor mount with a cardboard liner in it?
It wll be fine on them.. Remember that with 3d printing you get the opportunity to do things that would not be easily possible with standard materials. Like include bands of contact areas instead of a complete tube for a motor mount. This could allow cooling around the external of the motor casing. without any significant weight penalty.
Good luck with the flight. You can find 29mm motor retainers to print on Thingiverse.
 
It wll be fine on them.. Remember that with 3d printing you get the opportunity to do things that would not be easily possible with standard materials. Like include bands of contact areas instead of a complete tube for a motor mount. This could allow cooling around the external of the motor casing. without any significant weight penalty.
Good luck with the flight. You can find 29mm motor retainers to print on Thingiverse.
Thanks for your input. I flew the rocket today and the up part was great. Flew on an Aerotech F52-8. The issue was my parachute did not come out even though the nose cone blew off. I suspect too much dog barf. The rocket came down pretty much flat and did brake a couple of places. I have it glued back together and will fly it again. Had no issue with the motor melting the motor mount.
 
Also posted in a The Watering Hole thread, but...

I updated my 38mm launch tower on Thingiverse to include 2 new versions. Both are complete redesigns of my original, but use the same EMT and aluminum L extrusion hardware. They fit on a smaller 3d printer bed and sit closer to the 1010 rail they mount on - which should make them even stronger. I've flown a J1026 off the 3 fin version of the original and set 2 records with I216s off the newer "v2b" version. They're not adjustable, but they work great.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047161
 
Also posted in a The Watering Hole thread, but...

I updated my 38mm launch tower on Thingiverse to include 2 new versions. Both are complete redesigns of my original, but use the same EMT and aluminum L extrusion hardware. They fit on a smaller 3d printer bed and sit closer to the 1010 rail they mount on - which should make them even stronger. I've flown a J1026 off the 3 fin version of the original and set 2 records with I216s off the newer "v2b" version. They're not adjustable, but they work great.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047161
What material do you use and how well does it hold up to exhaust gases?
 
What material do you use and how well does it hold up to exhaust gases?
PETG. Works great. I haven’t seen any indications of melting or deformation. They do get a little smoky patina on them though.
 
My first contribution here :) Printed a test version, made some adjustments. Printing another now. Going to try it in a 2.5" upscale Ninja.

Top layer is 3mm thick. Built in washer. Test print seems stout enough. With some 1/2 elastic cord, it should handle flight stresses fine. But, anyone is welcome to improve it! This is printed upside-down. Bottom disc gets glued in after you put an eye bolt in it.

PETG, 220 nozzle, 50 bed seems to work on my E3V2Neo.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/k8WvXdpGCiwhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5961910
1681085562734.png
 
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