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I threw together rocket stand designs for 38, 29 & 24mm motor mounts that will print without supports on beds as small as 180x180 (like my Prusa Mini).

The bottoms of the legs are flat to make it easy to print without supports and they're tapered to almost a line so that they'll still stand well on carpet floors.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4612551
Screen Shot 2020-10-01 at 11.54.31 PM.png19CEDE04-0102-401F-83DD-D0E88B3EBB34.jpeg
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I've been posting some of my designs to Thingiverse (once they mostly work).
So far there is:

Peanut (13mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854353
Pathfinder (18mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771395
WAC Corporal (18mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2745737
Nike Smoke (24mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2933203
Aerobee (18mm, 1/10th scale): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3236440
Sign Here Please (29mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2885052
Checked Baggage (38mm): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164819

I’m half done printing checked baggage great design work! 👏 👏 👏
 
Guys,

I am looking for a motor grain stand to make research grains. Does anyone know where I saw that?
 

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10. LiPo battery box (160mAh and 350mAh for the electronics bay
If you're familiar with Fusion 360 I included the f3d files on Thingiverse. You can easily rescale the box for any LiPo by adjusting the parameters (Modify, change parameters). The box is made so that a small Ty-wrap can be wrapped around and hold the batteries securely. Two batteries fit if you want more current. 4-40 screws hold it to the bay (or epoxy). Screw heads are sunk below the floor of the box. In theory you could fill the holes with epoxy and that would add a little strength. I'm going to use screws (maybe with epoxy).

I'm using a Featherlight switch, Altus Metrum "brains", and a LiPo to make it all work. I made a couple of circuit boards to go inside the Av bay to clean the wiring kludge. Once the boards get here I'll install the board, box, "brains" and post a pic (maybe not here). It'll be plug and play when I'm done.

All sliced up and ready to print one of each

p2333284354-6.jpg


Larger board circuit board. Functionally same as the small one but takes up more space

p2333286731-6.jpg


Smaller board. Same function. Not that BATT and CHG are common so you can plug in two batteries or just one and use a charger. The SW connection was intended for the Featherlight magnetic switch but a 2-pole "conventional" switch will work if you use the two outside pins.

p2333286713-5.jpg


If you're interested in the files just PM me. I used Eagle to make the schematic and board files so you'll need that. Osh Park will take the board files. I should have some boards back next week. ST connectors are already here
 
Parametric shock cord winder

Based on a discussion in our club forum, I designed a customizable shock cord winder for those who like to pack their shock cords as nice, neat "pucks." SCAD files are attached as txt, so just change the extension from .txt to .scad

The thingiverse link also includes .stl files for one that will work for 3 or 4" rockets.

- Bill

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839961
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I guess can't edit older posts?


10. LiPo battery box (160mAh and 350mAh for the electronics bay
If you're familiar with Fusion 360 I included the f3d files on Thingiverse. You can easily rescale the box for any LiPo by adjusting the parameters (Modify, change parameters). The box is made so that a small Ty-wrap can be wrapped around and hold the batteries securely. Two batteries fit if you want more current. 4-40 screws hold it to the bay (or epoxy). Screw heads are sunk below the floor of the box. In theory you could fill the holes with epoxy and that would add a little strength. I'm going to use screws (maybe with epoxy).

I'm using a Featherlight switch, Altus Metrum "brains", and a LiPo to make it all work. I made a couple of circuit boards to go inside the Av bay to clean the wiring kludge. Once the boards get here I'll install the board, box, "brains" and post a pic (maybe not here). It'll be plug and play when I'm done.

All sliced up and ready to print one of each

p2333284354-6.jpg


Larger board circuit board. Functionally same as the small one but takes up more space

p2333286731-6.jpg


Smaller board. Same function. Not that BATT and CHG are common so you can plug in two batteries or just one and use a charger. The SW connection was intended for the Featherlight magnetic switch but a 2-pole "conventional" switch will work if you use the two outside pins.

p2333286713-5.jpg


If you're interested in the files just PM me. I used Eagle to make the schematic and board files so you'll need that. Osh Park will take the board files. I should have some boards back next week. ST connectors are already here

This is what it looks like in use:

p2372667670-6.jpg


I made a little bracket for the hall effect switch too.

p2374559722-6.jpg
 
For now, the airframes that I need cannisters for are 98mm and 63mm. I have not done the BP calc because I haven't finalized the dual deploy configuration so I don't know how much airframe I need to pressurize. Within the next year (maybe into 2022) I plan to build a 7-1/2" diameter rocket. We'll see how that goes. The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry and all that jazz...
 
For now, the airframes that I need cannisters for are 98mm and 63mm. I have not done the BP calc because I haven't finalized the dual deploy configuration so I don't know how much airframe I need to pressurize. Within the next year (maybe into 2022) I plan to build a 7-1/2" diameter rocket. We'll see how that goes. The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry and all that jazz...

I will upload them to Thingiverse starting tomorrow.
 
Here is the tinkercad model I made the donut av-bay for my 4" Gizmo from. Sharing a link to this rather than the STL so you can more easily edit it/ungroup and change parts, etc. For example your motor mount almost certainly sits a bit higher or lower than mine. Or just export the big piece in the middle as an STL for a copy exactly as I printed it.

If not obvious the two holes on the sides are for a 1/4" eye bolt on one side. Screw it down until just snug, motor case will keep it from loosening. 1/4" threaded rod on the other with a nylon (probably overkill) nut on top. 1/4" holes drilled and washers and nuts expoxied to the bottom of the forward motor mount centering ring. Small holes next to each other are ematch terminals using 3mm bolts, which I happen to have a bunch of in stainless from the 3d printing hobby. Separating those two terminals a little more might be nice on a future version.

After some bench testing I can confirm the charge well works great, and holds just under 1g of BP for me which is perfect. But it's kind of hard to fill and tape off (I imagine really hard with wind in the field) so I'll probably use premade powder charges in something (glove finger, surgical tube, etc) taped to the well. The terminals for the ematch are kind of fiddly, you may need to remove the ebay from the rocket to change out. Which fortunately is really easy, although threading in the eye bolt with shock cord attached is slow.

Be sure to add nut drivers for the 1/4" nut and the ematch terminals to your field kit.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3MLifdikpcq
 
Hello Fellow Rocketeers, ( spellcheck wanted to change that to Racketeers. It might be right :) )
Here's my nosecone design and print program in SCAD. Fully parametric. Have fun. If you choose to make an Honest John type of nosecone(Haack Coefficient 2 or greater) the join between shoulder taper and nosecone may not be complete. If you can figure out a way to fix that, please do so and copy me in. [email protected] Love youze all.
Norm

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