3D Printing 3D printer plunge

[Clivus]

I hope tha t you guys don’t mind that I post the junk I make. Hopefully I will get better. I’ve started using Fusion 360. Very nice program with great education.
At Airfest, one of my big problem was the Kansas wind. I was using a pull pin switch and my charges fired 3 times while I was trying to assemble the rocket. I bought some Featherweight mag switches to make assembly a little easier. I made a little plate to mount the switches. I’m not sure if my OCD will allow the slight tilt that’s present after mounting. I hate my wiring too, but this was proof of concept

 

[cwbullet]

Where did you get your board printed?

 

[OverTheTop]

At Airfest, one of my big problem was the Kansas wind. I was using a pull pin switch and my charges fired 3 times while I was trying to assemble the rocket.

Consider wiring them differently so this doesn't happen.

 

[Clivus]

How would I wire them that it couldn’t happen? I couldn’t keep the pull pin in while I was inserting the sled into the AV bay tube. Thankfully the matches were firing without any black powder because I hadn’t gotten that far yet.

 

[Clivus]

Where did you get your board printed?

Which board?

 

[OverTheTop]

How would I wire them that it couldn’t happen? I couldn’t keep the pull pin in while I was inserting the sled into the AV bay tube. Thankfully the matches were firing without any black powder because I hadn’t gotten that far yet.

Not sure the rest of your setup, but I use two switches on the one pullpin. One feeds the altimeter and one the eMatch.

If it were me I would be asking why the eMatches were triggered on the bench. By them going off when the pin wriggles out, does that mean they have a chance of going off when you arm the rocket? What triggered the alt? Pressure increase when fitting the NC?

When working on pull-switch operated systems on the bench I sometimes use wooden skewers in place of the really pull pin. That could be left in place when installing the assembly, tickled out later with a scalpel or other sharp implement (through the airframe hole) and replaced with the real pin.

 

[soopirV]

I'm full in now...I received my box of parts for my HE3D K280 printer 6 weeks ago, and over nights and weekends, have dialed it in to the point that I'm successfully printing...um, printer parts that will revolutionize my ability to (one day) print rocket parts.

NOW, if only I can design something functional to advance the hobby (word to all: carry a notebook, I'm know I had blazing ideas that then were forgotten). My wife watched the printer running a calibration cube, and said, "That's exciting. What does it do?". Despite my love for her, all I could answer was a deep throated "umm, that remains to be seen". It didn't help that my 20x20x20 project came out at 18x18x20...but at least it's consistent!

This is WHY I have a dedicated hobby budget though!

 

[cwbullet]

The second photo has a small electronics board. It has GND, Out, In on it.

 

[OverTheTop]

The second photo has a small electronics board. It has GND, Out, In on it.

Featherweight Magnetic Switch: https://www.featherweightaltimeters.com/store/p4/Magnetic_Switch.html

 

[cwbullet]

Thanks. I could not make it out.

I am going to mod my printer this weekend and add Octoprint and a Raspberry Pi. I am excited to add some functionality.

 

[cwbullet]

I have been very busy printing pretty much non-stop for 2 weeks. I printed a Raspberry Pi Case, 3-5 sleds for electronics, 4-5 spinner rockets, some nose cones.

Here are some photos of some of it. The best part of all of the stuff I have printed is it is all available on Thing verse.

I had have 48 hours of downtime because my printer got off on its Z and need calibrating.

 

[cwbullet]

Tonight, I will post some sleds I printed. 2 designed by my son and 2 printed from Thing Verse

 

[cwbullet]

I installed Octoprint and a Raspberry PI. This little addition really allows me to control and monitor prints after I leave my apartment.

 

[dr wogz]

Chuck, here's soemthign you might be interested in, a project for your printer...

I've gone one (Phoenix) printed and in process of assembly..

https://enablingthefuture.org/

 

[Cl(VII)]

Chuck, here's soemthign you might be interested in, a project for your printer...

I've gone one (Phoenix) printed and in process of assembly..

https://enablingthefuture.org/

That is freakin incredible.

 

[cwbullet]

Thanks. You are right up my alley.

 

[cwbullet]

Thanks. You are right up my alley.

 

[dr wogz]

Thanks. You are right up my alley.

(Thought so!! )

Don't print the pins standing up, they break easily that way. (Had to reprint them) Think about how the parts get printed (their orientation on the bed). Also, group the parts in batches so you can get a funky bi- or tri coloured hand! (Mine is silver & red, with white pins. looks pretty cool!)

 

[soopirV]

First functional rocket-related print for me- an alignment guide for my Macperformance VTS-6

 

[cwbullet]

very nice. Did you design them?

 

[cwbullet]

A picture copied from octoprint. Printing a few centering rings and a closure.

 

[vcp]

First functional rocket-related print for me- an alignment guide ]

I like that basic design very much... so I stole it. Working it up as an OpenSCAD Customizer item; only takes about 20 verbose lines of functional code. Preliminary view below. When it's done I'll post it on my 3D Components thread.

 

[cwbullet]

That is fantastic.

 

[matthewdlaudato]

I’m about to purchase the Prusa MK3, kit form. Does anyone have an opinion on which bed to get? Smooth spring steel (in stock, ships immediately) vs the textured powder coated (3 week lead time). Pros/cons?

 

[cwbullet]

I own both.

Personal opinion:
1. PEI Sticker Bed: Sticks very well but sometimes you need let it cool fully to get prints off. I stick it in the freezer for 5 minutes and they pop right off with flexing. If they don't, I use a 17 or 18 blade Exacto or thin spatula to remove them (be careful not to scratch the bed).
2. Powder Coated Textured: All prints stick well and you rarely have to use a tool to remove them.

I have tested over a dozen aftermarket beds and I felt the PEI dual sided sicker bed sticks better for ABS, PLA, and PETG. Sometimes, though, things stick too much. I think the Powder Coated bed is more durable. Both stick well and work for all three filaments I have tested but you might need to use tools to remove some prints. The key to letting prints cool all the way prior to removal. Buildtac is one surface that is available as an aftermarket addition. It is too sticky.

Recommendation: Order the powder coated with printer and add a PEI sticker bed to the order. You will have the best of both worlds.

 

[matthewdlaudato]

Thanks @cwbullet. I just ordered with the powder coated bed. Will pick up the plain PEI one later.

 

[cwbullet]

Here is a timelapse of a small rocket being printed.

 

[matthewdlaudato]

Prusa i3 MK3 kit came yesterday, made good progress assembling it.

 

[matthewdlaudato]

Printer assembled correctly, no issues, passed all self-tests and calibrated easily. Test print of the Prusa badge turned out fine, so printing a nosecone for a rocket I’m building. Using the PLA that came with the printer; have some PETG on order which I think is better for rocket parts.

 

[Tobor]

Question: Is it hard to 3D print a part that has a large thread at one end? Say a 2" dia. threaded coupler?

 

[matthewdlaudato]

Question: Is it hard to 3D print a part that has a large thread at one end? Say a 2" dia. threaded coupler?

Yes, threaded parts can be printed.