3d printed parts

[hawlk2004]

Hey guys already posted this on FB didn't get help there but i got some cad files that i want to print its a switch band and coulper and the alt sled what is the best filelemnt for this 3d print

 

[ttabbal]

None of those need to take a lot of force or heat, so PLA should work fine. I like PETG as well for that sort of thing.

Coupler might be an issue. It depends on the rest of the design. What size and what possible motors are we talking about here?

 

[dcullen]

Hey guys already posted this on FB didn't get help there but i got some cad files that i want to print its a switch band and coulper and the alt sled what is the best filelemnt for this 3d print

If you have (access to) a machine that can print ABS, that would be a good choice. ABS is less brittle and has better impact resistance than PLA. PET is somewhere between ABS and PLA.

Downsides to ABS is that it requires a heated bed and extruder that can print at 250°C or so. IT also gives off noticeable fumes that may not be healthy.

 

[hawlk2004]

Its a 4 inch but the coulper in fiber glass is like 3.8 inch iner diameter i went ahead and did 3.75 so its thicker and the motors well any 54mm that i can afford is the plan and ive been told no pla and ive looked at pet but ive also looked at the carbon fiber but don't know if the printer can take it

 

[hawlk2004]

hey looking at the printer now that I'm home nozzle temp 180 to 260 c and build plait 50 to 100c
and here's the list it sis it can do ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty

 

[OverTheTop]

Watch out when you bond the 3D part to the fiberglass. I have had extremely variable results bonding ABS to CF sheet. I actually aborted that idea because I had no confidence in the bond (it was for fins though!). Part of the process involved flame treating the ABS, and I think that is where the variability came in. The parts peeled away from each other easily in some cases.

Given it is a ring around the F/G, it should be less stressed. Having said that, if there is a decent shove on the airframe (spike of acceleration) from an ejection charge it needs to be bonded well.

 

[ttabbal]

The "carbon fiber" filament isn't what we think of with CF. It's basically chopped fibers mixed into the plastic, usually PLA, when it's made into filament.

If it's for a switch band, I would just cut a piece of airframe tube. But if you really want to print it, I think ABS is the best bet. But do consider doing some tests to make sure the adhesive holds it properly. I've had problems with PET not wanting to stick to things. I haven't done much with ABS that way yet, other than using Acetone to bond it to other ABS stuff.

 

[hawlk2004]

the coupler and switch band are 1 unit everything pretty much is screwed on there are 6 parts that will be glued on but the glue dose not need to be strong its only holding metal from falling out while not screwed on during flight the metal will have screws pulling it to hold the airframe

 

[MikeyDSlagle]

What's the best material for printing a period, or comma?

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Now I'll leave and let the more knowledgeable folks answer the question and I'll take my sarcasm with me.

 

[patelldp]

PLA is very simple and repeatable.

 

[OverTheTop]

What's the best material for printing a period, or comma?

Where do you want to use them?

 

[BLKKROW]

If you have (access to) a machine that can print ABS, that would be a good choice. ABS is less brittle and has better impact resistance than PLA. PET is somewhere between ABS and PLA.

Downsides to ABS is that it requires a heated bed and extruder that can print at 250°C or so. IT also gives off noticeable fumes that may not be healthy.

One of the biggest downsides to ABS is its layer adhesion. As it is tricky to print, there is a chance the layers do not adhere well and pull apart. Due to this I would recommend PLA, Nylon or Polycarbonate.

Keep in mind Nylon and PC, are some of the trickiest materials to print.

 

[JohnCoker]

I've had good luck with Nylon parts, and epoxy sticks to them better than PLA.

Here's a test I made laminating Nylon and PLA parts with fiberglass cloth (laminating resin rather than bonding, but should be relevant):

[video=youtube;g7cVa0K_txM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7cVa0K_txM[/video]

 

[hawlk2004]

I cant use pc the printer I looked at can only go to 260 and nylon im going to look at making nylon shear screws out of

 

[patelldp]

I cant use pc the printer I looked at can only go to 260 and nylon im going to look at making nylon shear screws out of

Why bother? They are so cheap. If anything, use the raw filament as shear pins.

 

[ttabbal]

I wouldn't print shear pins. Any issues with Z layer bonding will significantly change the shear strength. Just buy a pack of 100 from McMaster and call it a day. Toss it in with some other parts to save shipping. There are so many rocket parts on that site...

 

[dhbarr]

I wouldn't print shear pins. Any issues with Z layer bonding will significantly change the shear strength. Just buy a pack of 100 from McMaster and call it a day. Toss it in with some other parts to save shipping. There are so many rocket parts on that site...

Everything's a rocket part, if you try hard enough. Or, as my wife teases at me:

"Whatever it is I think I see / becomes a rocket part to me!"

 

[BLKKROW]

I cant use pc the printer I looked at can only go to 260 and nylon im going to look at making nylon shear screws out of

If you attempt nylon/PC be careful as both materials absorb any moisture in the air. This is really bad and will cause the print to fail.

 

[Winston]

One of the biggest downsides to ABS is its layer adhesion. As it is tricky to print, there is a chance the layers do not adhere well and pull apart. Due to this I would recommend PLA, Nylon or Polycarbonate.

Keep in mind Nylon and PC, are some of the trickiest materials to print.

Acetone vapor treatment improves ABS layer adhesion. An enclosed print bed for the maintenance of a uniform ambient temperature does, too.

I post this link to a recent video which discusses PLA smoothing only because it demonstrates an easy and much SAFER acetone smoothing method than the ones too often seen:

Does Acetone also work for welding and smoothing PLA 3D printed parts? (smoothing - no; welding - yes, apparently)

[video=youtube;VZUfq0yrtv4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZUfq0yrtv4[/video]

One of the advantages of ABS is that acetone or plastic model cement can be used to strongly weld parts together although as shown in the above video it seems that acetone can also be used to weld PLA although he doesn't do any measured bond strength tests.

 

[dhbarr]

MEK vs Acetone for this purpose?