I’m having a very difficult time this spring with spray painting. First, I can’t find the correct color Army Green for my Honest John and V2. Now I’m attempting to paint the Little Joe II and the white Rustoleum 2X paint is coming out of the nozzle like dust! Can was shaken, warmed in hot water. Same thing happened with the Rustoleum camo green paint that wasn’t the right color anyway. It’s 65 degrees and no humidity. I’m at my wits end on finishing these rockets. Anyone have any advice?
2nd bad can of Rustoleum 2X
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So far I have used red, white, orange, yellow, black all with good luck.
I toss my old dried up spray nozzles into a baby food jar full of acetone. Let them soak for a few days ((or weeks), give the bottle a shake every now and then and then use compressed air to blow them out, blowing air both ways through the nozzle. If you soak them right after use, you can usually blow them out without an overnight soak.
Bruiser
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I've had cans of this paint spray great then the next time it'll come out like spackling. I've not figured out what goes on with it but now I always do a test spray just before I spray my rocket. saves a lot of sanding and time...
In fact, I didn't want to chance my latest rocket to 2X so I'm using Duplicolor Perfect Match paints on this one.
-Bob
In fact, I didn't want to chance my latest rocket to 2X so I'm using Duplicolor Perfect Match paints on this one.
-Bob
Funkworks
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I painted the Estes Honest John and a LOC PF Hawk with one of these over Rust-Oleum white primer and had great luck:
For another project I tried this Testor's can over Dupli-Color Primer Filler and it also turned out perfectly:
I still haven't clear coated either one yet though.
For another project I tried this Testor's can over Dupli-Color Primer Filler and it also turned out perfectly:
I still haven't clear coated either one yet though.
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Neither of those are quite like this color. That’s what I want.
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o1d_dude
'I battle gravity'
I gave up on using 2X paint years ago.
OTOH, all I ever use is fluoro pink and metallic black with the occasional white enamel.
If the fluoro pink comes out of the rattlecan goofy, I take it back to Home Depot and they give me another one.
Never had any problems with the other colors.
OTOH, all I ever use is fluoro pink and metallic black with the occasional white enamel.
If the fluoro pink comes out of the rattlecan goofy, I take it back to Home Depot and they give me another one.
Never had any problems with the other colors.
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How do you get the fluoro paints to cover. I tried neon yellow it was terrible. I stripped and went to another color. I even did a white base coat
o1d_dude
'I battle gravity'
I use a very light gray Rusto primer. The fluoro pink covers it easily. I lay down a lot of coats which changes the tint from pink to more of a red. I clear coat when the coverage is uniform.
Have thought of going with a Ferrari Red right from the start but have never found a red that was quite what I wanted. All rattlecan paint.
Note the difference in the shades of these two rockets. Same paint, same process.
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I tried a krylon neon yellow. I first put down a white primer. But the yellow just would not cover nice. After 4 coats I gave up and stripped it and went with a solid color orange.
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You can go to almost any auto parts store that sells paint and they can scan a sample and mix your exact color in just about any paint they handle. You could then use the rattle can that you fill and pressurize with the paint that was mixed. Kind of a home made spray bomb. Although, I have never used it, but have seen the results, and seemed to work well.
https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Youcan-Refillable-Powered-Spray/dp/B0748KZFQK
https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Youcan-Refillable-Powered-Spray/dp/B0748KZFQK
That particular problem is not one I've heard before. I'd look for a date code on the can and check with Rustoleum. It's a long shot, but you just might have a bad batch, something like the propellant to solvent to vehicle to pigment ratios being off. If that is the case then they should send you a new can. And it that's not the case, they might send you a new can anyway.
Funkworks
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If you find it let us know! I just try them out one by one and am currently at can #2.
More paint problems today. I got rid of the 2X white Rustoleum and used the old white can Rustoleum over 2X gray primer. First coat went on great yesterday. Today I put on a second coat and this happens! Thank goodness I had a new can of acetone and got it all cleaned off quickly. I’m scared to even bother starting over.
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Funkworks
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Bummer. Not familier with that one, so I'm probably not the right person here... But since I'm here and like this stuff, here's I would do:
- Stay away from anything that brags about rust protection as much as possible. Whatever chemical they add to optimize rust protection is strictly useless in model rocketry.
- Buy not only same brand but same sub-brand as much as possible: 2X over 2X.
- Sand a lot. I hated sanding at first, but at some point I said screw it and got about $100 of sanding crap and started sanding aluminum and rockets for hours at a time, and now everything's a breeze and I sand with 3 or 4 grits after each coat. Is it necessary? Probably not, but now it's fun.
- Could also be a weather problem. Humidity especially. Combined with temperature.
- Finally, I got in touch with Rust-oleum customer service once. Got a personal email reply. Addressed my concern perfectly. So that was good.
- Stay away from anything that brags about rust protection as much as possible. Whatever chemical they add to optimize rust protection is strictly useless in model rocketry.
- Buy not only same brand but same sub-brand as much as possible: 2X over 2X.
- Sand a lot. I hated sanding at first, but at some point I said screw it and got about $100 of sanding crap and started sanding aluminum and rockets for hours at a time, and now everything's a breeze and I sand with 3 or 4 grits after each coat. Is it necessary? Probably not, but now it's fun.
- Could also be a weather problem. Humidity especially. Combined with temperature.
- Finally, I got in touch with Rust-oleum customer service once. Got a personal email reply. Addressed my concern perfectly. So that was good.
Duplicolor end of story. Any time you use Rusto no matter what line whether its Rust, 2x and even the automotive you will run that chance of poor quality spray. I had a can of gloss white and it came out like cottage cheese. I exchange the same can twice and each new can had the same exact issue. I mean I have heard good things about it, but I never had a bad can of Duplicolor. Check out JB TOOLS and they sell it there for about $5.36 a can. I think the primer is more, but I would get away from using it all together. The extra amount of money you may spend on paint is will worth the trade off for dealing with a bad paint job.
The instructions on a can of 2X say to recoat either in less than one hour or more than 24. Conventional wisdom around here is that 24 hours isn't enough, and one should wait anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on weather and other factors.
Yes, I waited 24 hours and definitely was not long enough. Thought I’d be safe since the primer was on for a week and the first coat was a very light barely covered coat. I’ve been doing rockets for for forty years and never had these paint issues when I was younger.
rocketman328
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I'm done with Rust-Oleum 2X, have had too many issues. Duplicolor and Krylon seem to give me better results.
Speaknoevil
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As mentioned in post 4, the problem is not typically the paint, it is the nozzle. Here is a good starting point to achieve the best paint results regardless of the brand you use: https://artprimo.com/catalog/art_primo_caps-101.
beeblebrox
8 C6-0, 12 D11-9, 20 D20-0, 20 E5-0, 3 Cinerocs
I posted this before, but here it is again, No Uber fancy colors but this is the real deal, not your Wal*Mart sold cheap Krylon
https://www.fullsource.com/krylon-industrial-and-mro-aerosol-paint/
Scott Chase
Fly29mm
The wrinkle problem is caused by spraying the paint on to thick. The top of a thick coat will dry very fast over the wet paint below as it drys the wrinkles appear. I solved this exact problem by spraying several thin coats of paint allowing each coat to dry overnight. I use the same brand of paint with no more wrinkles. It is important to wipe the area to be painted with a microfiber cloth to remove any sanding residue before spray is applied. When spraying Rust-Oleum it is important to clear the nozzle by spraying a couple of bursts into the air If I don't do this first the paint will spray droplets onto my project.
beeblebrox
8 C6-0, 12 D11-9, 20 D20-0, 20 E5-0, 3 Cinerocs
Not really true at all, I have been using spray paint for a half century ... Rustoleum is CRAP. It's the "Low VOC" that's the problem. you can thank the EPA for that. Industrial Krylon is the best. Duplicolor Automotive paint is ok too.
Speaknoevil
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To each his own... I agree the old formula Krylon is very good. New Krylon sucks. Duplicolor automotive is OK, but coverage is lacking. And yes, the problem has always been 100% the nozzle for every crappy, spitting, globbing 2X experience I have had.
beeblebrox
8 C6-0, 12 D11-9, 20 D20-0, 20 E5-0, 3 Cinerocs
Industrial Krylon, IS like the old stuff, it's not the crap that Small*warts sells...
Speaknoevil
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I understand, I was just clarifying as I no longer go through the pain and expense of tracking the good stuff down and haven't kept with all the formulations. It used to be all I used, thus why I called it "old."
painted enough
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I have tried two cans now of that garbage!To have the first ever of these exact same problems.To well know I wont ever buy that garbage again! I am 65 years old and have used countless cans of airisol paint.The same and only problem I have had until this junk! Was runs period unlike this which you will have many starting with bubbling and cracking and yes runs if you lay down to much.However its doubtful you will get that far! Before all in the 1st two will stop you dead in your tracks. Reguardless of what that can says for to much paint build up! Non-sense and for any reason why that is right.Would only be do to the sad fact this paint is garbage.I prep my surfaces the same all the time and as long as I dont use this type and brand.I have zero issues.So to do the same good prep work and then run into this set of problems.Is most maddening why change what works great for one that simply doesnt.It may depending on the type of material your using it on.But for anyone wanting to repaint anything made of metal.Like steel dont waste your time.Unless you want to be at it forever.I will even add this that when I used to paint vehicles and motorcycles.Using the three part automotive paints.I would prep the same as on this one.To never have anything like this take place! The one thing I will say good for it if it worked.Is that it does dry well unlike many others out there.I wont waste another cent on this junk ever again!
