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John_lennon

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Thanks Teepot he'll be literally over the moon with these side boosters. Is there a way to put motors in them and have them drop with mini chutes? I'll have to check them out. Last count I believe was 6 motors he was envisioning.
 

rklapp

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What Island are you on? I'm overthinking because I'd like to build them to the best of my abilities. I'm trying to take in what I've been reading about for the months before I started building. I've read a real lot of informative stuff you guys are a wealth of information it's great. I love reading through the threads that I find interesting and love the photos too. Hopefully it's all going to go as planned I know a lot goes into finishing a rocket. I'd also like to teach my grandson the valuable lesson of working towards a goal and the necessary steps to get there. I don't see him that often due to our schedules not always lining up. But something is working, I had a conversation with him today about a multi staged rocket he's wanting to design with boosters with engines in them that separate off like real rockets of today. He's so smart and so design conscious on the things he builds out of cardboard. He's already got a few books of plans he's drawn up. Hopefully he gets a lot out of it learning all kinds of things plus I learn a lot too. Thanks for the help I appreciate it more than words can ever express.
That sounds awesome.

Thanks Teepot he'll be literally over the moon with these side boosters. Is there a way to put motors in them and have them drop with mini chutes? I'll have to check them out. Last count I believe was 6 motors he was envisioning.
Of course. Sounds like you need to start watching more of Tim's videos. Six motors is very ambitious. As seen with the recent Astra launch attempt, the rocket will go astray if any do not ignite.

 
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teepot

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Thanks Teepot he'll be literally over the moon with these side boosters. Is there a way to put motors in them and have them drop with mini chutes? I'll have to check them out. Last count I believe was 6 motors he was envisioning.
Yes, they all have motors in the. Those are just a couple. They eject the nose cone and chute comes out. Cool to see when everything works. I had one where only the outboards lite but the main didn't. It just sat there. Then the ejection charges went off while the SRB's were still attached to the core. Parachutes come out. I was very funny.
 

John_lennon

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That sounds awesome.



Of course. Sounds like you need to start watching more of Tim's videos. Six motors is very ambitious. As seen with the recent Astra launch attempt, the rocket will go astray if any do not ignite.

I've watched a few of his videos, I know that it's probably not going to happen but it was cute to listen to him getting all excited with the thoughts of designing our own rocket with a lot of engines and stages. He's already talking about a flight computer for all different types of readings he's interested in. I told him to watch some of Joe Barnard's videos to see his designs of a flight computer. I also told him to watch some of Dave Thomas's videos of builds. So he can familiarize himself with build steps and the processes to finishing a rocket. I love that he's got the mind of a builder/engineer at his young age. I'd really like to steer him away from using a device when he's board, to using his mind and his hands to get enjoyment and fulfillment. So many kids are just in a zone with their face in a phone or tablet it's sad. I'd love for him to experience a childhood like most of the guys here probably did. You get home from school do your homework and chores then you go out and play in the neighborhood with your friends and come home when it's dusk for dinner. Although so much of the world has changed. Luckily his parents don't want him to focus on his phone either. Don't get me wrong it can be a very useful learning item with any answer literally at his fingertips. Which we didn't necessarily have that luxury without picking up a book. It just wasn't so easy. I loved encyclopedias growing up. Hopefully he gains a lot of useful information from the very beginning like him I'll be learning a lot too. I'd like to learn more of the science behind what's going on. I read a lot of threads although they're very interesting a lot of the science talk is a tad lost on me so when I see something I don't understand I look it up or ask questions.
 

John_lennon

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Yes, they all have motors in the. Those are just a couple. They eject the nose cone and chute comes out. Cool to see when everything works. I had one where only the outboards lite but the main didn't. It just sat there. Then the ejection charges went off while the SRB's were still attached to the core. Parachutes come out. I was very funny.
After you told me I checked out the Apogee website to look at the boosters, they're very interesting. Then that got me looking at the different cluster rockets. Is it a hard thing to get say 2-3 or more rockets to ignite at the same time or relatively close to the same time? You must need a different launch control with more wires and banana clips. Plus I'm guessing a larger battery. Thanks so much for the recommendation Teepot. It's definitely something I'd like to try maybe once we have a few normal builds under our belts and have some of the basics down pat. I've watched about 10 videos by Apogee and visited their websites numerous times to look at what they have to offer. There's so many other companies that I hear you guys talking about that I had no clue they even existed or there was much more than Estes rockets. I love looking at the different models I definitely like the ones based on either real rockets or missiles. I think it makes it that much more interesting that you're building a scale model of an already existing piece of history.
 

teepot

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After you told me I checked out the Apogee website to look at the boosters, they're very interesting. Then that got me looking at the different cluster rockets. Is it a hard thing to get say 2-3 or more rockets to ignite at the same time or relatively close to the same time? You must need a different launch control with more wires and banana clips. Plus I'm guessing a larger battery. Thanks so much for the recommendation Teepot. It's definitely something I'd like to try maybe once we have a few normal builds under our belts and have some of the basics down pat. I've watched about 10 videos by Apogee and visited their websites numerous times to look at what they have to offer. There's so many other companies that I hear you guys talking about that I had no clue they even existed or there was much more than Estes rockets. I love looking at the different models I definitely like the ones based on either real rockets or missiles. I think it makes it that much more interesting that you're building a scale model of an already existing piece of history.
It's not hard to get clusters to light. The easiest to do it with are black powder motors. You can twist the ignitor wires together so you only have two leads. You could have a set of wires for each ignitor. And yes you need more power to light the cluster. I like the military stuff too.
 

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It's tough to get painting done with a crazy work schedule then trying to coordinate free time with nice days I waited this long because it's finally starting to get cooler outside. I know it's not good to do in high heat & humidity. The moment seemed right with not too much wind so I went for it. So I was finally able to get a light coat of primer on the Viking. I know from reading and talking that there'll be more sanding between coats. I'm left with what looks like a light powder coat for my 1st round of paint. I'm guessing this is what I'll be sanding down to smooth in between coats. I'm using Rust-Oleum Universal Bonding Primer. Is this the correct stuff? I did sweeping short burst spinning the dowel as needed. I can't even remember the last time I spray painted anything literally drawing a blank trying to remember back. So I'm a total beginner in the painting and building department. I'm hoping that you can pick up what I'm referring to in my pics. Any tips or tricks someone has for the prep of the next phase of painting would be greatly appreciated. I hope everyone has been well these past weeks.
 

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rklapp

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It's tough to get painting done with a crazy work schedule then trying to coordinate free time with nice days I waited this long because it's finally starting to get cooler outside. I know it's not good to do in high heat & humidity. The moment seemed right with not too much wind so I went for it. So I was finally able to get a light coat of primer on the Viking. I know from reading and talking that there'll be more sanding between coats. I'm left with what looks like a light powder coat for my 1st round of paint. I'm guessing this is what I'll be sanding down to smooth in between coats. I'm using Rust-Oleum Universal Bonding Primer. Is this the correct stuff? I did sweeping short burst spinning the dowel as needed. I can't even remember the last time I spray painted anything literally drawing a blank trying to remember back. So I'm a total beginner in the painting and building department. I'm hoping that you can pick up what I'm referring to in my pics. Any tips or tricks someone has for the prep of the next phase of painting would be greatly appreciated. I hope everyone has been well these past weeks.
Some prefer the auto paints more than the household paints. Personally, I haven't tried them yet. After a layer, I like to use a very fine steel wool 0000 except the final coat. So did you paint in the park?

Remember, the more effort you spend on the paint/decals, the more disappointed you'll be when if it lands in a tall tree. Don't worry, we'll help with that also. We've become experts at getting rockets out of our park trees.

When the paint crinkles, don't worry. Just sand it down and try again. If it crinkles with the clear coat, then you're pretty much screwed. That happened to my Mercury Redstone but it's been one of my luckiest rockets despite the crinkled clear coat.
 

John_lennon

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Some prefer the auto paints more than the household paints. Personally, I haven't tried them yet. After a layer, I like to use a very fine steel wool 0000 except the final coat. So did you paint in the park?

Remember, the more effort you spend on the paint/decals, the more disappointed you'll be when if it lands in a tall tree. Don't worry, we'll help with that also. We've become experts at getting rockets out of our park trees.

When the paint crinkles, don't worry. Just sand it down and try again. If it crinkles with the clear coat, then you're pretty much screwed. That happened to my Mercury Redstone but it's been one of my luckiest rockets despite the crinkled clear coat.
I actually sprayed in 1 of the garage bays there was a light wind and I didn't want to end up sprayed with white speckles. I actually was going to walk through the parking lot to spray in the park but I lucked out with the wind. When I saw there were no cars anywhere close to the garage bay I felt safe enough to do it in there. Is that kinda speckly look something that frequently happens spraying? I don't know if you can really see in the photos or not but it was totally visible to me. It was a brand new can that I purposely bought for this. I shook it up good and even sprayed some out before to make sure the flow was correct. I guess I'll be going to the Depot in the morning for yet another thing to add to my new overly cluttered new-used art table. One of the perks of working for an estate sale company. I get 1st dibs if I want to buy anything. When and if it doesn't sell and is then earmarked for donation this guy gets to take it home. I guess while I'm there I'll look at the automotive primer. Yippee another hour in the paint isle staring dumbfounded at the rack of paints. Hopefully the local street artists have been on vacation lately. Lol
 

rklapp

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I actually sprayed in 1 of the garage bays there was a light wind and I didn't want to end up sprayed with white speckles. I actually was going to walk through the parking lot to spray in the park but I lucked out with the wind. When I saw there were no cars anywhere close to the garage bay I felt safe enough to do it in there. Is that kinda speckly look something that frequently happens spraying? I don't know if you can really see in the photos or not but it was totally visible to me. It was a brand new can that I purposely bought for this. I shook it up good and even sprayed some out before to make sure the flow was correct. I guess I'll be going to the Depot in the morning for yet another thing to add to my new overly cluttered new-used art table. One of the perks of working for an estate sale company. I get 1st dibs if I want to buy anything. When and if it doesn't sell and is then earmarked for donation this guy gets to take it home. I guess while I'm there I'll look at the automotive primer. Yippee another hour in the paint isle staring dumbfounded at the rack of paints. Hopefully the local street artists have been on vacation lately. Lol
Is the paint supposed to be gloss or matte? If the paint comes out powdery, it might be because the contents have separated. When this happens, I boil water and pour into a bowl then insert the can for several minutes then shake vigorously. This happens occasionally with house paints but not sure with auto paints.
 

John_lennon

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@rklapp
So I went to a few different retailers to purchase new primer yesterday and also got some steel wool. I've sanded down the sandy finish till smooth I'm noticing the edges of the BT are becoming fibrous and ratty looking. How do I go about this not becoming an issue. I put some thin CA glue to hopefully soak in to the edge keeping it from fraying more is this the best way to deal with it or is there a better solution? Thanks to the Rocketeer Brain trust we should be flying soon hopefully. As long as I don't have more issues with paint. How many coats of primer & paint are usually used? Do I want to sand between every coat? Also I do have a can of spray clear coat but I've seen people talk of Pledge Floor Polish as a clear coat. Can I please get the exact name or a picture of the bottle. I was looking yesterday at the store and saw a bottle but I don't know if it was the correct thing. Thanks, Dyl
 

John_lennon

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Is the paint supposed to be gloss or matte? If the paint comes out powdery, it might be because the contents have separated. When this happens, I boil water and pour into a bowl then insert the can for several minutes then shake vigorously. This happens occasionally with house paints but not sure with auto paints.
The Primer was Matte finish. I picked up another few yesterday at Home Depot and Target. To see if I notice any difference in types. I bought three different Rust-Oleum 2x I got #1. Flat White Primer #2 2x Paint + Primer Premium Ultra Matte White #3 2x Flat Gray Primer. Hopefully these work better than the first can I tried. I wasn't going to necessarily use the gray on this build but I figured I'd grab it, in case I plan on doing a darker color theme on another build. I'll make sure to shake the hell out of the can and try it out on a piece of cardboard box scrap to see how it looks before applying it to the rocket.
 

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So I went to a few different retailers to purchase new primer yesterday and also got some steel wool. I've sanded down the sandy finish till smooth I'm noticing the edges of the BT are becoming fibrous and ratty looking.
This is normally the result of overly vigorous sanding of the edges of the body (can also happen at any sharp edge in the design. You can either try to avoid it or deal with it afterwards... I try to avoid it but only succeed mostly, and often have to deal with it a bit. But if you say "fibrous and ratty looking" that probably means you went... well, somewhat too far. :)

Anyway: two ways to avoid it:
1) Simply be careful at the edges. Don't sand off the edge: rather, sand up to the edge. When everything else is done, sand around the edges carefully, trying not to lean on the edge with the sandpaper when you're half on/half off.
2) At the top end of the BT (where the nose or coupler goes, you can insert a coupler with a piece of sacrificial body tube. This will protect the edge.

Once it's already been oversanded, I have found that a good application of thin CA applied with a Q-tip will fix it. After doing that you'll need to sand again, this time being more gentle and careful. You may need additional application of CWF or filler/primer to finish it up.

How many coats of primer & paint are usually used? Do I want to sand between every coat?
This varies very widely among modelers; you will find no precise consensus here.

After doing filler/primer, I sometimes use no further primer, and go straight to the color coats. If I apply primer, I'll usually two two light coats, and usually sand after the second coat.

Painting is usually 2 or 3 coats depending on the paint. Usually your first coats will be light, and the last coat will be heavier to achieve gloss. @hcmbanjo recommends two light coats and one final heavy coat; I use that as a guide, although sometimes I get away with one light and one heavy, and other times I need a fourth.

If the above steps do not yield a satisfactorily smooth finish, and I'm not totally sick of painting, I'll sand after completing the above steps and then apply one additional heavy coat.

Also I do have a can of spray clear coat but I've seen people talk of Pledge Floor Polish as a clear coat. Can I please get the exact name or a picture of the bottle. I was looking yesterday at the store and saw a bottle but I don't know if it was the correct thing.
1632945436546.png
 

John_lennon

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This is normally the result of overly vigorous sanding of the edges of the body (can also happen at any sharp edge in the design. You can either try to avoid it or deal with it afterwards... I try to avoid it but only succeed mostly, and often have to deal with it a bit. But if you say "fibrous and ratty looking" that probably means you went... well, somewhat too far. :)

Anyway: two ways to avoid it:
1) Simply be careful at the edges. Don't sand off the edge: rather, sand up to the edge. When everything else is done, sand around the edges carefully, trying not to lean on the edge with the sandpaper when you're half on/half off.
2) At the top end of the BT (where the nose or coupler goes, you can insert a coupler with a piece of sacrificial body tube. This will protect the edge.

Once it's already been oversanded, I have found that a good application of thin CA applied with a Q-tip will fix it. After doing that you'll need to sand again, this time being more gentle and careful. You may need additional application of CWF or filler/primer to finish it up.


This varies very widely among modelers; you will find no precise consensus here.

After doing filler/primer, I sometimes use no further primer, and go straight to the color coats. If I apply primer, I'll usually two two light coats, and usually sand after the second coat.

Painting is usually 2 or 3 coats depending on the paint. Usually your first coats will be light, and the last coat will be heavier to achieve gloss. @hcmbanjo recommends two light coats and one final heavy coat; I use that as a guide, although sometimes I get away with one light and one heavy, and other times I need a fourth.

If the above steps do not yield a satisfactorily smooth finish, and I'm not totally sick of painting, I'll sand after completing the above steps and then apply one additional heavy coat.


View attachment 483832
Thanks Neil I was able to get rid of the nasty stray paper fuzzy edge with the CA & light sanding of the area to clean it up. I guess me being a total beginner made me sand a bit more than necessary but I did do a couple passes of CWF sanding after the 1st. I felt it needed it especially the way I had to man handle the BT to get the spacer tube I accidentally glued in out. Forming tube crimps and spreading on a few seems, which probably wouldn't have been there normally. Looking forward to get some color on finally what do you recommend for wait times between coats of paint?
 

neil_w

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Looking forward to get some color on finally what do you recommend for wait times between coats of paint?
Rule #1: follow the instructions on the can
Rule #2: see rule #1

I can tell you what I do for Rustoleum enamels, will not apply to other brands necessarily. What are you using?
 

John_lennon

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Rule #1: follow the instructions on the can
Rule #2: see rule #1

I can tell you what I do for Rustoleum enamels, will not apply to other brands necessarily. What are you using?
Lol.. Yes I read the instructions on the can, cans, then read said instructions again just to make sure. Enamel? You spelled "Name" all wrong it must've been some typo or auto correction are you letting Alexa Dictate messages for you because she can't spell for well you can guess where I'm going with this since my expletive got asterisk out. Lol. I am using the Rust-Oleum 2x Flat White Primer. Does that mean it's Enamel? It says it can be coated again anywhere from 1-24hrs but I'm assuming you could probably recite the directions on the can in your sleep. I just was wondering is there a better number than anyone of 23 possible hours.
 
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neil_w

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It says it can be coated again anywhere from 1-24hrs
Read again. It says two things:
1) Recommends a couple of coats a few minutes apart. I would normally do 5-10 minutes between coats.
2) Apply second coat *within 1 hour* or *after 24 hours*. This means that once you start painting, you have one hour to apply additional coats before you must stop for a day. The 2x paints also have the one hour recoat window, but then you must wait 48 hours (I usually wait *at least* 3 days, sometimes a week). The primer is a bit more forgiving in that regard.

Anyway: start painting, and then finish within the first hour. Then wait.
 

John_lennon

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Read again. It says two things:
1) Recommends a couple of coats a few minutes apart. I would normally do 5-10 minutes between coats.
2) Apply second coat *within 1 hour* or *after 24 hours*. This means that once you start painting, you have one hour to apply additional coats before you must stop for a day. The 2x paints also have the one hour recoat window, but then you must wait 48 hours (I usually wait *at least* 3 days, sometimes a week). The primer is a bit more forgiving in that regard.

Anyway: start painting, and then finish within the first hour. Then wait.
Ok so now I'm all screwed up well I painted it with a light coat probably around 4:30pm then brought it in on the dowel and has a clip holding it my desk light with the dowel still inside of it. So now I should wait 24hrs till I apply the second coat. I definitely read it wrong or do you think I'll be good to paint it in the morning? I'm guessing that they tell you to reapply within the hour to hopefully bond the 2 coats making it 1 strong coat. Sorry for all the questions but I'm not much of a painter in fact regular painting is my least favorite thing to do and will avoid it like the plague. Which in the line of work I'm in I'm always having to do small patch and repair work in the homes when furniture gets moved and scuffs the wall or damages the sheetrock. I'm totally unfamiliar with spray paint at all. I've read numerous threads of people's paint cracking or crackling. So I'm trying to avoid anything of this nature although I was thrown that beautiful curve ball the first layer of primer going on like colored sand.
 
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neil_w

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Ok so now I'm all screwed up well I painted it with a light coat probably around 4:30pm then brought it in on the dowel and has a clip holding it my desk light with the dowel still inside of it. So now I should wait 24hrs till I apply the second coat. I definitely read it wrong or do you think I'll be good to paint it in the morning?
Rule #1: follow the instructions on the can
Rule #2: see rule #1
I.e., wait 24 hours.
 

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@rklapp
So I went to a few different retailers to purchase new primer yesterday and also got some steel wool. I've sanded down the sandy finish till smooth I'm noticing the edges of the BT are becoming fibrous and ratty looking. How do I go about this not becoming an issue. I put some thin CA glue to hopefully soak in to the edge keeping it from fraying more is this the best way to deal with it or is there a better solution? Thanks to the Rocketeer Brain trust we should be flying soon hopefully. As long as I don't have more issues with paint. How many coats of primer & paint are usually used? Do I want to sand between every coat? Also I do have a can of spray clear coat but I've seen people talk of Pledge Floor Polish as a clear coat. Can I please get the exact name or a picture of the bottle. I was looking yesterday at the store and saw a bottle but I don't know if it was the correct thing. Thanks, Dyl
The advantage of gloss over matte is that it's easier to move the water slide decals around. Matte is easier to hide problem areas.

I'll usually wait a day between coats. I start with the steel wool then wet sanding as needed for the fine details. I'm currently working on the Xarconian Cruiser and could spend weeks trying to sand and paint all of the nooks and crannies.

Here's the "paint booth" my friend has in his Waikiki condo. The filter captures the spray before hitting the glass. He has the Jalousie window slots that are a problem in the high rises because they sometimes slide out.


1632975546584.png


1632975563270.png


1632975631684.png
 

John_lennon

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The advantage of gloss over matte is that it's easier to move the water slide decals around. Matte is easier to hide problem areas.

I'll usually wait a day between coats. I start with the steel wool then wet sanding as needed for the fine details. I'm currently working on the Xarconian Cruiser and could spend weeks trying to sand and paint all of the nooks and crannies.

Here's the "paint booth" my friend has in his Waikiki condo. The filter captures the spray before hitting the glass. He has the Jalousie window slots that are a problem in the high rises because they sometimes slide out.


View attachment 483873

View attachment 483874

View attachment 483877
rklapp
That's really an interesting set up would it be too hard for you to paint outdoors or do you do this just when the weather isn't agreeable outdoors. So you actually moisten the Wet/Dry sandpaper and use it like that? I was thinking maybe not due to the extra moisture & cardboard don't mix well. I was scared to use moistened paper towel to wipe the sanding residue. Wondering if I would soften the CWF. The only advantage to getting paint speckles on glass is they'll come off with a razor blade. Maybe if I was living alone I'd set up a rug like that but I think my wife might just end up throwing me out the open window if I started spraying in the house. I don't mind living this way but I really long for a garage, shed, or basement that I could get a work area in. I'd love to see Hawaii one day it looks absolutely beautiful from what we see on TV or pictures online.
Thanks, Dyl
 
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John_lennon

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I.e., wait 24 hours.
Thanks neil_w
I'll wait the 24hrs then and give it a coat this afternoon. What about switching from Primer to colored paint can I put a coat of the ending Color paint in a hour. Or do I want the primer to totally set up and bond to the underlying coat to bond appropriately to the rocket. I am truly sorry for all the questions but I'd like a lot of this to start coming second nature for me as I'm sure most of you more experienced builders are. I don't want to have to think of the finite details. I'll just say it's paint day or it's the paint & finish processes and know exactly what's going on unless I'm working with new materials or BT substrates. Thanks, Dyl
 

John_lennon

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Hi all,
I noticed a few bubbles appear on the Rocket body as I was applying the 2nd coat of primer is this common? I know I can sand it down and repaint it but I'm getting super discouraged. I guess there's a laundry list of issues that could of caused the primer to not bond and set up in 24hrs. Ughhh and this is just a small rocket. It's definitely maddening.
 

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What about switching from Primer to colored paint can I put a coat of the ending Color paint in a hour. Or do I want the primer to totally set up and bond to the underlying coat to bond appropriately to the rocket.
You can apply top coats right on top of primer within the hour. I have done it. Normally you would do this only in situations where (obviously) you don't need to sand the primer.

What I have *not* done is applied primer + top coat on top of a 24-hour-old primer coat. When I have done this it has been on a bare rocket, or one that has multiple-week-old filler-primer on it.

I noticed a few bubbles appear on the Rocket body as I was applying the 2nd coat of primer is this common?
Pictures please.

I know I can sand it down and repaint it but I'm getting super discouraged. I guess there's a laundry list of issues that could of caused the primer to not bond and set up in 24hrs. Ughhh and this is just a small rocket. It's definitely maddening.
Welcome to the world of rattle-can painting. You'll get the rhythm of it and it will become easier. And periodically you'll *still* run into problems. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

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@neil_w I just turned on all the lights to get you a picture of the bubbling it appears the bubbles have sunk a bit and there's a blemish wear it was. I don't think it'll be too hard to get rid of the little bump with a little sanding. I've never wet sand anything Rklapp said to wet sand does everyone use this super fine grit that way? I'm just hoping it's not too tough to get a hang of, because I'm not doing great with all the other challenges thrown at me with this build. I couldn't get a decent picture in our dimly lit condo. I'll grab you a shot in the A.M. when we have the morning light in our unit I'm set up right in front of a large bay window with my Artists Desk turned into my Hobby Desk.
 

rklapp

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rklapp
That's really an interesting set up would it be too hard for you to paint outdoors or do you do this just when the weather isn't agreeable outdoors. So you actually moisten the Wet/Dry sandpaper and use it like that? I was thinking maybe not due to the extra moisture & cardboard don't mix well. I was scared to use moistened paper towel to wipe the sanding residue. Wondering if I would soften the CWF. The only advantage to getting paint speckles on glass is they'll come off with a razor blade. Maybe if I was living alone I'd set up a rug like that but I think my wife might just end up throwing me out the open window if I started spraying in the house. I don't mind living this way but I really long for a garage, shed, or basement that I could get a work area in. I'd love to see Hawaii one day it looks absolutely beautiful from what we see on TV or pictures online.
Thanks, Dyl
You're getting into the thick weeds of model painting. You might want to search for model painting on YouTube and start watching. There's undoubtedly much much more content about plastic models than rockets. I wouldn't worry about getting the rocket wet unless you land it in a pond or something. That's an entirely different set of problems.
 

neil_w

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@neil_w I just turned on all the lights to get you a picture of the bubbling it appears the bubbles have sunk a bit and there's a blemish wear it was. I don't think it'll be too hard to get rid of the little bump with a little sanding. I've never wet sand anything Rklapp said to wet sand does everyone use this super fine grit that way? I'm just hoping it's not too tough to get a hang of, because I'm not doing great with all the other challenges thrown at me with this build. I couldn't get a decent picture in our dimly lit condo. I'll grab you a shot in the A.M. when we have the morning light in our unit I'm set up right in front of a large bay window with my Artists Desk turned into my Hobby Desk.
Fear not, wet sanding is easier than dry sanding. Just keep a tub of water nearby to periodically rinse off the sandpaper. You need to be careful wet-sanding primer, because too much water can seep through the porous primer and wet the paper body tube. So just keep the sandpaper damp for sanding primer. This precaution does not apply when wet-sanding color coats, or on fiberglass rockets.

[personally, I don’t wet-sand primer for this reason, but many folks here seem to do it successfully]
 

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Aloha John;

If you are a visual learner, you may want to give another of Tim Van Milligan of Apogee Components videos a watch. Part three in the series he did on Model Rocket Construction details finishing, from primer through paint...


r/
Dave
 

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@David_Stack

I've watched a few of Tim's videos but I'll definitely watch it again. Thank you for recommending it,

@rklapp

Yes I'll watch some videos on YouTube to see how people are doing model painting. Hopefully I'll pick up some more pointers. Thanks again,

@neil_w

Thanks for your tips for sanding and wet sanding. I'll see how it goes. Thanks again,

Dyl
 

rklapp

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Yes I'll watch some videos on YouTube to see how people are doing model painting. Hopefully I'll pick up some more pointers. Thanks again,
This was my Viking's 8th launch last Saturday and honestly, it's looking ugly. The paint's chipped, the fins are dinged, and the stickers have worn off. The other Viking's in the pack have gone off on their own adventures, but this one always comes back.

 

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